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Rivarama



Member Since: 28 Aug 2021
Location: London
Posts: 155

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
Rear spring question
Hello,
I just ordered HD springs from paddock (yellow ones for my 110) as well as a new supporting spring seats and new retaining spring plates as the existing ones were absolutely rotten.
Unfortunately the bolts provided seem way too short to catch the nut on the other side of the axle plate the seat is resting on - given that the plate is straight and resting on the bottom loop of the coil. Am I OK to use longer bolts even if it means the plate won’t be touching the bottom of the seat?

The existing retaining plates were bent upward at the end but they were made of very thin metal. Bending the replacement retaining plates just isn’t an option as they are made of 4mm galv steel.

Any suggestions? Thank you



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Post #983140 20th Feb 2023 9:38pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2200

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
No problem using longer bolts as long as they are not so long as to contact the axle tube on the underside when fully tightened.

From experience the retainer plate needs to be bent at the ends to accommodate even the factory springs. This should happen on its own when you tighten the bolts down. I would not run without the bolts and retainer fully tightened down.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale
Post #983141 20th Feb 2023 9:44pm
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Rivarama



Member Since: 28 Aug 2021
Location: London
Posts: 155

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
Hi Steve - I can’t imagine the sort of torque that would be required to bend that solid 4mm plate. I tried with a massive hammer on the edge of my driveway and managed to brake a paved stone lol. I’d be concerned about snapping the bolt head if I used a braker bar to apply the torque you’re talking about…
Post #983142 20th Feb 2023 9:51pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3213

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
You can add a few washers between the spring mount and the retainer plate. Those bolts are M10, and can easily bend 4mm plate. I would also rotate the spring just a bit clockwise, so the second coil is not resting so much on the retainer plate. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #983144 20th Feb 2023 10:17pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Please, please excuse me being a bit daft... it's been a long week already... but just going by your first picture, it seems to be the 'rising' coil that's causing the plate to lift at the other end. If you turned the spring a few degrees, so that the retaining plate was just sitting flat on the round spring seat, would that not allow the bolts through more?

It seems to me that this is probably too obvious, and you'll have tried this. As I say, I'm just going by the top pic. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #983146 20th Feb 2023 10:19pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 671

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
I've just taken my rear springs off my 110, and there were two thick-ish washers on each bolt between the retaining plate and the spring seat.
That plate will bend easily if you tighten the bolts, but it will bend at the hole which probably isn't great.
Post #983150 20th Feb 2023 10:22pm
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Rivarama



Member Since: 28 Aug 2021
Location: London
Posts: 155

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
Dinnu wrote:
You can add a few washers between the spring mount and the retainer plate. Those bolts are M10, and can easily bend 4mm plate. I would also rotate the spring just a bit clockwise, so the second coil is not resting so much on the retainer plate.


Good point Dinnu - I originally tried that as this is where the coil was the flattest on the other side.
If I go with a long bolt, it won’t be a problem anymore.

Re. Torque - I read somewhere the torque for those retainer plate bolt should be set at 40nM… hardly enough to bend those plates unfortunately
Post #983151 20th Feb 2023 10:38pm
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Rivarama



Member Since: 28 Aug 2021
Location: London
Posts: 155

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
donmacn wrote:
Please, please excuse me being a bit daft... it's been a long week already... but just going by your first picture, it seems to be the 'rising' coil that's causing the plate to lift at the other end. If you turned the spring a few degrees, so that the retaining plate was just sitting flat on the round spring seat, would that not allow the bolts through more?

It seems to me that this is probably too obvious, and you'll have tried this. As I say, I'm just going by the top pic.


Hi Donald, it is indeed lifting on the other end but when I press it w molegrips against the coil, the bolt is still 7-10mm too short.
Post #983153 20th Feb 2023 10:41pm
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Rivarama



Member Since: 28 Aug 2021
Location: London
Posts: 155

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
Thanks for the suggestions - I have ran out of day light now. I will try to put more washers in between the plate and the seats tomorrow and use longer bolts.

Just a stupid question in the meantime… am I right in assuming there is no top or bottom end on springs? Both ends seem to have the exact same shape to me

Thanks
Post #983155 20th Feb 2023 10:45pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3213

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
The spring will work either way, but if it is a progressive spring (coils are not evenly spaced), the factory used to mount them with the coils closest together on nearer to the chassis. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #983177 21st Feb 2023 6:54am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3213

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Rivarama wrote:

Re. Torque - I read somewhere the torque for those retainer plate bolt should be set at 40nM… hardly enough to bend those plates unfortunately


An M10 bolt can exert over 3 tons of pressure. I would be surprised is a 4mm flat plate is able to withstand that without bending and/or contouring to shape.
The original retainer plate is 3mm, that bends so easily. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #983179 21st Feb 2023 7:37am
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: None
Posts: 1074

 
Rivarama wrote:
Hi Steve - I can’t imagine the sort of torque that would be required to bend that solid 4mm plate. I tried with a massive hammer on the edge of my driveway and managed to brake a paved stone lol. I’d be concerned about snapping the bolt head if I used a braker bar to apply the torque you’re talking about…


Not much torque in my experience. A good hit with my larger uggaddaa gun was more than enough to shape the plate to the required bend when doing them up. The M10 bolt can handle a good doing up in my view*.

*note, I am a farmer who views torque specs on some items as mere suggestions and experience of using in rougher situations things suggests sometimes overkill is the best option and thus my views are followed at one's own risk.

I look at some of those bolts and think who on earth thinks 40nm will hold that, for instance the brake caliper bolts on my wifes car are only M12 and get 200nm (which I did use the proper thing for).
Post #983186 21st Feb 2023 9:43am
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Chicken Drumstick



Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 
Rivarama wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions - I have ran out of day light now. I will try to put more washers in between the plate and the seats tomorrow and use longer bolts.

Just a stupid question in the meantime… am I right in assuming there is no top or bottom end on springs? Both ends seem to have the exact same shape to me

Thanks

Are they dual rate springs? Otherwise normally no.

Not sure about lots of washers. And without wishing to sound rude (easily done on the internet). Doing a bolt up is about as elementary as it gets with mechanics. I'm not really sure I grasp why you are having issues at all.... It is very easy to see what the bolt holds on and where it fits and how much room you have.

Not sure if mentioned, you'll want a high tensile nut and bolt, should be stamped 8.8 on the head of the bolt.

You could even use a longer bolt just to screw it down and bend the plate, then fit the shorter bolts again.

BTW - HD springs might give a harsh ride.
Post #983213 21st Feb 2023 1:06pm
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Rivarama



Member Since: 28 Aug 2021
Location: London
Posts: 155

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
Thanks all for your input. I should be all set to complete this week end 👍👍
Post #983266 21st Feb 2023 9:33pm
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Rivarama



Member Since: 28 Aug 2021
Location: London
Posts: 155

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
Job done. Thank you all for your advice!



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Post #983486 23rd Feb 2023 10:10pm
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