 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Spray on sound deadening as well as dynamat? |
 
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074  
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Dynamatt sheet does nothing to stop sound, it’s a vibration damper, it adds mass to the panel to quell resonance and vibration. You need a proper sound barrier for the floors
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11th Jan 2023 11:21pm |
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| edward Member Since: 08 Jan 2023 Location: Lincs Posts: 151 
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Thank you. Is there anything you’d recommend?
And have you any experience with spray deadening? My thinking is that the spray will make everything more rigid (because it can get everywhere) and therefore decrease vibrations. Ed. |
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11th Jan 2023 11:40pm |
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1526
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having been in a truck with raptor coating inside and out it doesn't seem to make any difference.
Dynamat and carpet or rubber matting on top works. i think there is a tradeoff for cost versus noise reduction. you still have the same engine and same glass so a certain element of noise will always be around. too many folk want car like levels of NVH in an old lr and while you can improve it massively a more modern car will always be quieter |
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12th Jan 2023 9:03am |
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| edward Member Since: 08 Jan 2023 Location: Lincs Posts: 151
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Thanks very much for the quick reply. People on this forum are really helpful!
I’ll let you know how I get on with my project - a 2013 double cab (in need of some love). Ed. |
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12th Jan 2023 9:32am |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 374 
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I don't disagree the principle, but I don't think that's completely true. While Dynamat (and other similar brands) primarily stop resonance, by doing this you also get the added benefit of them being less able to transmit sounds. I.e. engine noise on the other side of a panel, transmits that sound primarily by vibrating the panel, which dynamat helps reduce. but yes, appropriate sound barrier products (closed cell sound deadening foam, or heavy matting etc) are much more effective at stopping sounds being transmitted as you describe. Of course the best route is to use both deadening and a barrier, which is what all modern vehicles will have. Add a carpet on top of that and you might even approach some reasonable level of noise in the cab on the motorway! As to the OP's original question, I'd imagine the spray on stuff could be used in place of dynamat (or other similar matting), but the real benefit would be in using a barrier type material on top of either product. I'm nearing the end of my sound deadening journey on my 110, and it has made quite a difference. Bulkhead still to do though which I'm hoping will have a significant impact. Best of luck with it all. |
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12th Jan 2023 9:53am |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 783
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Sound deadening and vibration damping are brill while in use but a nightmare if you ever need to do any maintenance once fitted.
Clearly, the care taken during application makes a huge difference but there does seem to be a tendency to plaster dynamat everywhere which then covers screws, panel joints etc. It may be that all of my Defenders are different but I have never been able to keep all the water out (have stopped trying  ) so maintenance is always required. I favour removable stuff - foam, heavy matting etc.
I am working on one at the moment where the previous owner put Dynamat everywhere and on everything. It has been a mission getting access enough just to be able to remove the floor plates  .
I do think it has a use but when I fit it I try and keep it within the confines of a panel (so it could be removed if required) and also keep it clear of corners and joints so it is possible to see water collecting and /or clean it up. To answer the original question, I would not use a spray as I think that will cause many problems in the longer term. |
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12th Jan 2023 10:39am |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074
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In principle if you plaster the whole panel in Dynamatt it will make a difference as you have added an acoustic barrier as it is a bituminous product. But its also a huge waste of time and money to do so. Its also a nightmare to do any work on a truck that is.
However, there are better ways to achieve the goal whilst accepting the limitations of the starting point (the 30+ year old design of a farm truck). Dymantt sheets are expensive for what they are (Silkaflash band is pretty much the same stuff for 1/10th of the price). I like Dodomatt as its designed for cars and is cheaper than Dynamatt. The flat sheets are only there to add weight to a panel and reduce resonance of that panel. Resonance and noise are not the same thing. Resonance comes from impacts and transmission of them, e.g. you hit a pot hole and the light weight panels will have a resonance, this is not the same as the road noise from the wheels transmitted through the arches and floor. You also need to look at isolating certain body components from the chassis by using things like the Discovery turret rings and spring isolators. The flat stick on matting will add weight to reduce the resonance of the impact but it will not and I cannot state enough that it will not do a thing for road noise as it is not meant to be an absorbing barrier. To deal with the road noise you need something that can absorb it, theres a good reason most modern cars have a wheel arch liner that looks like carpet as this soaks up most of the inbound noise from the wheels. Its not really an option in a Defender and big AT / MT tyres will be a fair few DB higher than a modern road tyre. Theres a few things that actually work as sound barriers and have other effects a 5 or 10mm thick foil backed closed cell foam will absorb some noise and help with heat and condensation (I have the roof of my double cab lined with dodo matt foil backed 10mm closed cell foam to stop the roof raining on me). To really stop road noise you need a combination of thick rubber matting and carpet. Theres also the fact its a Defender, its never going to be a Range Rover. |
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12th Jan 2023 11:12am |
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| Lightwater Member Since: 28 Jun 2020 Location: Sydney NB Posts: 61 
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I did research on the Defender for acoustic insulation for the Freelander. Not that I found much useful information.
Below is our Freelander experience with acoustic insulation. https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33026.html There is a link to printed data in the above thread, but I think it is broken. Here is a YouTube video alternative: My gut feel is that on top of the butyle you will need at least 50mm of acoustic foam in as many areas as possible. The Freelander has some foam up to 130mm thick on the rear passenger footwell. Visitor - Freelander owner |
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12th Jan 2023 12:31pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365 
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This is very interesting. I already have the combo of butyl sheets and sound absorbing closed cell foam from the front bulkhead through into the cab, but I am always looking for new ways to make my truck a bit quieter! Are Disco isolators and turret rings standard parts and fit easily enough on a Defender (TD5 110)? I am considering the Alive spring/shock package so would this be something that they could fit for me at the same time? TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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12th Jan 2023 3:47pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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Essentially, yes. Disco II front spring isolators that incorporate the turret rings are a direct fit.  Click image to enlarge Disco 1 isolators are a direct fit on the rear of all 90's but 110's require a slightly different approach as the springs are larger. The solution is to use a Toyota part (part no.OME80PR10), available from Devon 4x4. Click image to enlarge There's a bit more detail on my build thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/post820610.html#820610 Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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12th Jan 2023 3:52pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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That's great info - thank you TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread
2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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12th Jan 2023 4:04pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Not much to add to what others have said. Essentially if you add matting to panels there will be some sound deadening, some resonance deadening and depending on where you are in the World, some heat or cold insulation as well.
Here in North Wales it is mostly all about the noise levels in the cab, with the occasional cold or hot day. For this Miffy has a good layer of butyl Dodomat on the larger flat panels, transmission tunnel and bulkhead. This is covered by the excellent Wright Offroad mat system which in combination with the Dodomat cuts the engine and transmission noise down significantly. The Second row and rear have a 5mm dense rubber on every panel and that helps keep the exhaust and road noise from the rear down. The biggest noisy areas left are the doors and upper bulkhead where the vents are. There is nothing on the roof apart from the standard headliner as it is not necessary. Unlike the earlier 200tdi Defenders with the flat roof the TD5/Puma roofs of not drum thanks to the pressed ridges. What has made a noticeable difference is a 15mm closed foam layer rising from the rear seat box up the tub over the curve. I actually did it for insulation, but the sound deadening was a nice surprise. As to the spray deadening, there is/was a product by Noise Killer that was once quite popular. https://www.nkgroup.co.uk But I couldn't find it on their website so I guess it could be... Snake Oil...! I think of sound deadening a little like I think of outdoor clothing... Layers...  |
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12th Jan 2023 4:07pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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I'm converting to Puma interior from TD5 so took the (expensive) opportunity to seal the vent flaps and then put 2 layers of insulation over the bulkhead..
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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12th Jan 2023 4:19pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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I disagree here, I'm afraid. Having insulated the roof of both a 200tdi 90 and my current Puma 110, there are definite benefits to be had. You don't need to go mad with the, Silent Coat in my case: Click image to enlarge But do need a full covering of closed cell foam to see the benfit: Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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12th Jan 2023 4:52pm |
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