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Wethering Landy



Member Since: 17 Jun 2022
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Timing Chain snapped
Hello friends.

The chain has snapped on my 2.4 TDCi Puma. Has anyone got any experience with this?

I have been told by some people that it is toast - while others say I may have got away with it, as it might be a 'safe engine' - even though it is an interference engine.

I have stripped it down as far as removing the rocker cover - and all the valves look level. But what do I do now?

Can anyone help?

Someone suggested measuring the valves by laying a piece of metal over the engine and using a vernier to establish if they are all level - then assuming they are - one could assume none have bent.

Is this right? Could it be that simple?

I have also been told that a pressure test or leak down test is needed but this is beyond me and the vehicle is kind of stuck on my driveway so would need recovery to someone who can do it.

I can't seem to find anything on the internet on this subject. Surely I can't be the only person this has happened to?

Has anyone got a good understanding of this engine and would know what will have happened? And what I need to do please?

Model 110 XS Utility 2011
140K Miles
2.4 Puma TDCi
I was going up a slip road on to a dual carriageway at about 50mph when it snapped
Lovely vehicle but currently doing nothing!

Any help would be most appreciated.
Post #955724 17th Jun 2022 9:59am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5425

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Have you turned engine over by hand ?

Do you have the skill/ability/tools to put a replacement chain on it your self?

I would remove the cam, and then compression test all the cylinders but understand that may require you buying some tools.
Post #955725 17th Jun 2022 10:06am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16915

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I think that there are three immediately obvious easy courses of action. (1) get someone who knows these engines to look at it, (2) remove the cylinder head and inspect for damage, or (3) fit a new timing chain etc and see what happens when you try to start it.

I appreciate (3) runs the risk of money down the drain if the engine has already been destroyed but if you have got away with it it is the quickest and cheapest solution. (2) involves more work, more parts, and more cost if you have been lucky but next to no extra cost if you haven't. (1) involves paying someone else to do either (2) or (3) for you.

Did the engine just die, or were there horrible noises?

Many years ago the cambelt failed on my Mk5 Cortina, and I was very lucky - there was a very slight witness mark in the carbon on one piston where it had grazed a valve, but all the valves were straight and the mark didn't extend through the carbon to the piston. "Lucky" does happen sometimes!

Fingers crossed for you!
Post #955727 17th Jun 2022 11:21am
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Wethering Landy



Member Since: 17 Jun 2022
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Thanks for the replies.

The engine sounded like it jumped out of gear - so a single 'clunk' and then the revs just faded away and it died.

I don't know anyone locally who knows the Puma engine. There are plenty of folk who know Landrovers - but they all know the Tdi - and seem to think Puma is a swear word! Perhaps there is a contact at Ford one could call?

I haven't tried to turn it over by hand. Would I need to fit a new chain for this? I am assuming so.

I think I can fit a chain as I have all the cover plate and old chain off. I think it comes as a kit and I will need a new cam cover plate I believe.

Is fitting a chain difficult if I follow Keswick Nigel's Youtube video and timing marks etc? Will I need tools please?

If I wanted to pressure test the cylinders, what will I need please?

If I wanted to remove the cylinder head, I guess this is just a bit more time I need to invest. I have most of the top of the engine already off - so can see the valves, inlet, outlet etc.

I have a basic workshop set of tools and some friends with some knowledge who can help and are keen.

My ideal would be to fix it myself but I am not a skilled mechanic and so am worried I am wading out of my depth here.

I am sorry for all the questions but I want to achieve a result without spending £££ at a garage to be told it's dead.
Post #955731 17th Jun 2022 11:59am
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 628

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
If the engine is potentially dead anyway - you shouldn’t really do anymore harm by investigating anyway.

If you can get a cheap Bluetooth bore scope off eBay - that’ll give you some kind of indication of what mess is inside the engine. 2008 2.4 110 Utility XS.
Post #955734 17th Jun 2022 12:21pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3618

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Kudos for giving it a go yourself. As BrickBox says, if it’s goosed your can’t really do any more harm by investigating it yourself so you might as well have first crack.

Nigel’s vids are very good. He used to frequent the forum quite a bit (GloucesterNige) but haven’t seen him for a while.
Post #955736 17th Jun 2022 12:31pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3615

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
try a transit garage they will have had this happen on customers vans

alternatively be patient and someone in the know will come along and answer the toast or not question DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #955741 17th Jun 2022 2:33pm
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Wethering Landy



Member Since: 17 Jun 2022
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
I think the borescope sounds a plan - but I am no expert and won't know what to look for. I am patient and I am sure we will find the answer.

Does anyone know how hard it is to take the head off? I have most stuff already stripped back:

Timing change cover
Timing change + pulleys etc
Alternator (it got in the way)
Injectors + wiring loom
Various pipes
Air intake
Rocker cover

Is it just another step or a total ball ache?
Post #955742 17th Jun 2022 2:54pm
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 628

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
If the rocker is off, you should be able to see the head bolts.

You should be able to put the bore scope down the injector holes, if I’m not mistaken.. 2008 2.4 110 Utility XS.
Post #955743 17th Jun 2022 3:36pm
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Wethering Landy



Member Since: 17 Jun 2022
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Yes I got it off - but it was getting dark and I wasn't looking for bolts. See image. I will have a look over the weekend maybe.
So I just unbolt it?
I assume when I put it back together it will need to be done up in sequence and to a certain torque?
Post #955744 17th Jun 2022 3:43pm
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 628

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Yes - I’m sure the torque settings and direction will be on here somewhere. Usually you start from the centre 2 and work your way out in a circular motion when refitting. 2008 2.4 110 Utility XS.
Post #955745 17th Jun 2022 4:03pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16915

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Wethering Landy wrote:
I think the borescope sounds a plan - but I am no expert and won't know what to look for. I am patient and I am sure we will find the answer.

Does anyone know how hard it is to take the head off? I have most stuff already stripped back:

Timing change cover
Timing change + pulleys etc
Alternator (it got in the way)
Injectors + wiring loom
Various pipes
Air intake
Rocker cover

Is it just another step or a total ball ache?


You've a long way to go yet, based on your photo. You need to remove the lash adjusters, camshaft carrier, the two camshafts, then the head.

I would suggest that you follow this link and in the second post down you'll find a link, courtesy of forum legend dgardel, to the workshop manual for the Puma (both 2.4 and 2.2 versions are available). Download a copy of the manual and at least you will know what you are getting into.


Last edited by blackwolf on 17th Jun 2022 4:49pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #955748 17th Jun 2022 4:46pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3214

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Have never taken a Puma engine apart, but most modern dual overhead cam engines, you will need to remove the cam shafts to access the head bolts.

I would bring the pistons somewhere half way through the stroke. I do not know if the crank pulley, or somewhere on the flywheel, or some reference to the crank position sensor can indicate where the TDC is located! If the injectors are out you may ‘feel’ the positions of the pistons. If piston 1 and 2 are at the same height then good to proceed. Note: turn the crank shaft slowly. If it binds, turn in the opposite direction.

Once pistons are half way down, rotate each camshaft slowly. Feel for any unusual hard stops. You will need to fight against spring pressures. While rotating when if any follower has excessive backlash compared to the others, which could indicate a bent follower.

After confirming the above, I would be tempted to put a nee chain in, rotate again by hand and see if you get equal resistance during compression for each cylinder. You should get some compression on every half turn of the engine.

Good luck. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #955749 17th Jun 2022 4:48pm
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Wethering Landy



Member Since: 17 Jun 2022
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Dear Everyone

You are all so helpful. I am of course reluctant to have a new engine if I can avoid it as I have bad experience with re-cons. Plus the engine number will change and that could devalue it.
I will look at the manual later with a beer.
Post #955751 17th Jun 2022 4:59pm
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Ads90



Member Since: 16 Jun 2008
Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds
Posts: 800

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
blackwolf wrote:
Many years ago the cambelt failed on my Mk5 Cortina, and I was very lucky - there was a very slight witness mark in the carbon on one piston where it had grazed a valve, but all the valves were straight and the mark didn't extend through the carbon to the piston. "Lucky" does happen sometimes!

I had the same on my Mk5 Cortina too!
I was warned it could be toast as I had repeatedly tried to restart it thinking it was just stalled, before my dad suggested I check the cambelt.
Had a mate tow me home and I put a new belt on it from Halfords and it ran good as new.
Post #955754 17th Jun 2022 5:07pm
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