 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Indicators work, but one side doesn’t flash when locked |
 
|
|
|
| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11327  
|
Do they all work with the hazard switch? Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
||
10th Nov 2022 9:59pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3726 
|
Good question! Yes, hazards are fine also.
|
||
|
10th Nov 2022 10:43pm |
|
| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11327
|
In that case, check all of the fuses, particularly any that are associated with the alarm, of which there are several. I once caused a short circuit whilst changing an indicator light and eventually replaced four different blown fuses before I could get the alarm to flash the indicators properly. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
||
|
10th Nov 2022 11:07pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20912
|
Ground eyes loose on the RHS of the transfer box, there are two eyes on a single M6 or M8 stud there, one ground eye for each side. One probably has decent connection the other probably doesn’t.
They come loose over time, best to clean up. Nip the bolt up but not too tight and apply a tiny bit of low strength loctite such as 222. Alternatively, find a good grounding point, and using a multimeter (keep lights off) do a continuity check on the lighting ground pin. The reading should be very low, if it’s high or significantly different one side to the other it’s likely to be the ground stud eyes. This is providing it is a ground issue, if it’s a power issue the relay maybe culprit. Grounding issues are most common. Hope that might help, I had the hex flanged stud come loose with those two eyes twice. And it would come out if any clutch is replaced or anything like that. The small amount of Loctite 222 solved the issue. It still came loose even when torqued to spec. It’s possible so this is why I am mentioning it, also you’ll likely find it gets worse and also it’s worse without the engine running as the voltage is a couple of volts less. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
||
|
11th Nov 2022 7:22pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3726
|
Thanks Steve. The bit I can’t get my head around is how they function perfectly fine as indicators or hazards, but not when locking or unlocking. Is there a separate supply and earth for this function?
|
||
|
11th Nov 2022 7:49pm |
|
| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2424
|
On the 10AS there are separate wires that trigger the left and right indicators . See https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/upload...0Guide.pdf
Page 5, green connector, pin 1 and pin 6. So a case of looking at the wiring diagram to see where those wires go and if there is a break in the route from pin 1. |
||
|
11th Nov 2022 8:06pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20912
|
CO1 - Difference in supply voltage, which engine off alternator isn’t making charging current and voltage
At rest circa 12.6v approx, with engine running 14.5v approx. The difference in voltage overcomes the high resistance with a bad ground, not always but a dodgy grounding point it can do. As I mentioned, one grounding eye on the stud probably has lower resistance than the other which is why one side is working fine with engine on or off. The other probably has high resistance, loose or dirty connection eye.  As the two ground eyes are separate for each side, and not shared that may explain the one sided lighting. (The ground stud is the same, but the two separate ground feeds are for each side).
The area is exposed to all elements and high vibration. If it isn’t this then I’d change the relay, but the ground is more probable. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ Last edited by custom90 on 11th Nov 2022 9:53pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
|
11th Nov 2022 8:46pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3726
|
Makes perfect sense Steve, thanks for that.
|
||
|
11th Nov 2022 9:24pm |
|
| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2424
|
You could test Steve’s hypothesis by trying indicators and hazard switch with ignition on but engine not running.
|
||
|
11th Nov 2022 9:39pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3726
|
Hazards work fine with ignition off
 |
||
|
12th Nov 2022 12:31pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20912
|
Different circuit paths though.
Test the ground pins for continuity against a good clean chassis earth. Also test voltage in each scenario but use a chassis Earth not the Econoseal socket ground. Is it LED lights or standard? _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
||
|
12th Nov 2022 12:55pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3726
|
Thanks Steve. I’ve cleaned up the ground on the side of the transfer box and it’s still the same. It’s standard lights, not LED. are there separate fuses for the two circuits, it doesn’t look like it when I check the Haynes manual.
|
||
|
12th Nov 2022 2:00pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20912
|
Check the voltage on each side and compare, in particular the scenario when it does it.
Each flash should momentarily hit at least 12.2v definitely not less than 11.8v. With the engine not running. I know it’s not easy to hold the probes and mimic the locking at the same time. If you had a couple of Econoseal male pins some crocodile clip tests leads and a multimeter it would be helpful. Are you sure none of the connections have came off or loose on the indicator stalk? If you want to continuity check each wire run, the reading should be as close to 0 Ohm as possible if it’s high there is a possibility there is a wire break. Are the side repeaters connector okay? Not corroded or wet ? Bayonet fittings not corroded or wet _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
||
|
12th Nov 2022 2:13pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3726
|
Hi Steve. Thanks for the advice. I’ll work through it this weekend.
|
||
|
12th Nov 2022 2:15pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
