 | Home > Td5 > Steering wheel removal |
 
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| Lodelaner Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lambourn Posts: 621   
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I've never used percussion or a puller, just backed the nut out a couple of turns and then with both arms behind the wheel, and with feet wedged in the pedal box, pulled/grunted/wigged it off the splines. JB
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25th Oct 2022 8:33am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2198 
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The threads on all defenders should be M6 x 1 as far as I am aware. Might be the threads on yours are damaged from someone previously trying to use the wrong bolts? 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread |
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25th Oct 2022 8:43am |
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 862
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These are perfect. Makes a tricky job 5 minutes.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125553802724?mk...media=COPY |
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25th Oct 2022 8:48am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2198
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Well that tool implies they are UNF so I may well be wrong
 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread |
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25th Oct 2022 8:54am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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I made mine with 3 bolts and a piece of bar, and the threads were M6. If you are having trouble with the threads try running a tap down them. It could be that there is just some dirt/rust/plastic folding fouling them.
If you try banging and yanking of the wheel make sure you keep the nut fitted a few turns on to the column so if it suddenly goes you don't break your nose  |
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25th Oct 2022 9:18am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16870 
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Be thankful you have the holes for the puller, the late flat steering wheels do not and can be very awkward to remove.
When you refit the wheel, do not make the all-to-common mistake of overtightening the nut. The wheel is splined and fits on a taper, and there is no need whatsoever to do the nut up as though the future safety of the human race depends on it being as tight as possible! I also always put a smear of anti-seize on the spline and taper before fitting one, it makes life a little easier in the future. It's been my experience that the steering wheel centre nut is on the list of the top three most overtightened nuts on vehicles, along with wheel nuts and spark plugs. Pay heed to Geobloke's sage warning about leaving the nut on when pulling on the wheel, over the years many people have had a steering wheel in the face when the wheel finally comes off, I am told that it is painful and seldom improves your looks.... |
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25th Oct 2022 9:47am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3201  
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M6 and 1/4 UNF are very similar sized and pitched, but not identical of course.
I made a mistake once where needed to tap M6 in a new hole, so started M6 #1 tap, M6 #2 tap, but #3 I picked up a UNF 1/4. There were practically no more threads left  1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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25th Oct 2022 9:56am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Goodness I have never been referred to as sage
 
I will give you an extra bit of advice for when you get the steering wheel off. There is a centring hole in the steering box and associated notch in the drop arm (I believe the hole in the steering box is 8mm), line these up before refiting the steering wheel nut and lock in place. Then centre your steering wheel. Tighten nut to 43Nm and don't forget the spring washer. Nothing more irritating than a steering wheel fit just off centre...  |
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25th Oct 2022 10:00am |
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| Lionel Member Since: 12 Aug 2008 Location: Melbourne Posts: 59 
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The threads seem pretty good. Certainly no dirt/rust etc. The M6 bolt goes in quite happily for about 2 turns & then starts to jam. Exactly the same on each threaded hole, so I am pretty confident that the threads are not metric M6. The local (AU) forum members are suggesting 1/4 inch UNF. (?) BTW it is a D type wheel, by the look of it. The trim pad has 4 lugs to hold it in. (easily removed). The main nut was quite easy to remove, but the wheel is immovable on the splines applying all banging, wiggling & stout blows from a rubber hammer! Cheers, Lionel |
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25th Oct 2022 10:05am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16870
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There's a first time for everything!
Not all vehicle have the centring feature, unfortunately, and it seems to be rather random whether it is is present or not, in particular many drop arms lack the notch. It's a really useful thing to have and always worth checking. |
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25th Oct 2022 10:19am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Hi Lionel. Are you keeping the steering wheel or junking it?
Modified method 1: Unscrew the nut but leave it on a few threads. Person 1 pulls backwards (as straight as possible). Person 2 grabs a large diameter punch, slots down centre of nut on to steering shaft and gives the shaft (not the threads) a damn good thwack. The combination of backwards pressure and sharp hit may shock the wheel off. It is essentially the same method used to separate TRE ball joints. Method 2: Heat might be a solution, but could adversely affect the wheel if you are planning on keeping it. Not an open flame but a heat gun. Then quench it with iced water. The shock may free it up. Remember that splined shafts hate to be separated if pulled in any other way but directly in-line. The splines bind. So make sure you pull straight. Such a pain when they bind. |
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25th Oct 2022 10:24am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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I bet that is a Puma thing Fancy comfy soft Defenders |
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25th Oct 2022 10:25am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16870
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No doubt. "Value engineering" at its worst.
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25th Oct 2022 10:38am |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 374 
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My 2014 110 has the notch in the drop arm so I don't think it's consistent across even the Pumas, but as others have said I imagine this may be luck rather than anything else...
I've never (yet) had a steering wheel (across Landrovers and other cars) that hasn't come off with a (forceful) rocking motion. Maybe I've just been lucky? |
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25th Oct 2022 11:40am |
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