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MattyEssex



Member Since: 23 Jul 2021
Location: Essex
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Indus Silver
Holes before sound deadening
Having removed the back seats what has people done with the hole left over.

I’m going to be laying 3mm sound deadening and wanting to know if I should cover the holes with something prior?

Thanks
Post #960374 3rd Aug 2022 6:45am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3240

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
I would clean the outside / underside really well before sticking the sound deadening, and then apply some polyurethane sealant from the outside over the hole and the exposed sound deadening. That gives extra protection against water ingress (but will not allow water to drain Rolling with laughter ). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #960375 3rd Aug 2022 6:55am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
There are several options here, depending, to a certain extent, on the type of hole.

For a plain hole, the simplest option is to put a nut and bolt through it. If you choose a relatively low profile bolt such as a button head and then cut a small hole around it in your sound insulation, it will disappear within its thickness. I did something similar when fitting Gywn Lewis rear mud flaps, incorporating nylon washers as isolation for the stainless bolts, and when carpeted you can't tell that they're there:


Click image to enlarge

This approach also works for threaded holes, which is what I suspect you have having removed your rear seats.

An alternative for plain holes that you definitely won't need again is to stick some small pieces of aluminium to the underside of the wheel boxes with Sikaflex or similar. This maintains the flat surface internally and is nice and easy to do. I used this approach on my old 90 that had had lots of holes drilled by a previous owner:


Click image to enlarge

This won't work where you've removed seats from a Puma as there are braces underneath that would get in the way. They contain the threaded holes mentioned above, though. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #960387 3rd Aug 2022 8:43am
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steveww



Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 550

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green
I have also taken out the third row of food down seats. I used these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284167596200?var=585732451604

To put back in the holes. They are low enough to fit matting over the top.
Post #960409 3rd Aug 2022 12:05pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3240

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
I would stay away from fitting bolts for the sake of plugging holes. Why introduce a potential source of galvanic corrosion when there are alternative ways to plug. In the automotive industry, holes are usually plugged with grommets. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #960412 3rd Aug 2022 12:53pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1006

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
I used plastic bolts for the threaded seat base holes.
Post #960428 3rd Aug 2022 4:25pm
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: None
Posts: 1074

 
I'd just have them welded up if your not going to use them again
Post #960432 3rd Aug 2022 5:24pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3618

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
I just used plastic plugs, from the inside out, and a spray of dinitrol easy enough to get out again in the future, I also punched a hole in the dynamat before fitment allowing for future seat refitment. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #960444 3rd Aug 2022 6:35pm
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MattyEssex



Member Since: 23 Jul 2021
Location: Essex
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Indus Silver
Thanks all for your input, very useful.

Think I am going to go the plastic grommet approach, does someone have a link to suitable ones to use please? Thank you.
Post #961299 11th Aug 2022 6:31am
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3618

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
from memory I think they were just the 10mm ones left over from a dinitrol kit but there are loads of options on Amazon or Ebay

link to the dinitrol ones below but please check the hole sizes before ordering anything

https://www.dinitroldirect.com/product/din...-50-plugs/ DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #961301 11th Aug 2022 6:51am
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v8bob



Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 306

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
You can get some of these - basically as used in production.


Click image to enlarge
Post #961302 11th Aug 2022 7:44am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Given the hostile environment that is under the rear wheel arches, I'd want something more substantial than that. Also, if you are removing seats but leaving the brackets underneath, you really want to protect the captive threads in case you want to use them again. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #961307 11th Aug 2022 8:35am
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