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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

USB in the cubby box. From dash or battery?
I currently have the interior stripped to do some soundproofing. So now’s a good time to think about wiring.

I’m fitting a genuine LR/Alpine sun with one of Martin’s looms and reckon now is a good time to add a USB charging point (blue sea) into the inside of the cubby box.

So - as I’m already routing wiring from the dash to the cubby, should I connect the new USB via the transmission tunnel to the factory cigar socket on the dash - or is it better to run it straight from the battery?

The battery seems far easier but I’m really not keen on taking a feed straight from the battery terminals - it’s just a bit messy and I’m planning on fitting a split charge soon so would like the bath box to be as clean as possible. Unless there’s another sensible source of power locally - maybe in the box of trucks under the drivers seat?
Post #960877 7th Aug 2022 12:33am
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2260

Puma:take a positive feed from the fuse box under the drivers seat.I personally wouldn't overload the cigarette lighter feed!
Post #960878 7th Aug 2022 2:36am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

It would add cost, but why not put in a beefier wire from the battery to an “accessory” fuse box, and then power it from there. This would be tidier, good practice to have a fuse closer to the battery, and probably even be used when you do your twin battery install.

I have a blue sea one in mine, with two separate banks of fuses, one which is aux battery powered, one which is ignition run.

As I say, more than you need now, but if you’ll be doing a twin battery install, it might make sense.

The wires I have from dash to battery/cubby are in a separate ducting under the car, it’s the exception of the sub wires which weren’t long enough, and I ran these down but the (300Tdi) fuse box and across the transmission tunnel. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #960892 7th Aug 2022 8:08am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2062

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey
Bear in mind that whilst Blue Sea USB sockets are reassuringly expensive, they are electrically noisy and could interfere with your sound installation.

I must confess I'm struggling to understand how 2 wires and a blade fuse holder could take up so much room in your battery box as to impede the installation of a split charge system.

A supply from the battery will be permanent live, very useful if you want to charge your phone without leaving the ignition on.

Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.
Post #960894 7th Aug 2022 8:28am
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matchap801



Member Since: 05 Aug 2021
Location: Somerset
Posts: 120

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
I brought in a feed from the battery box to the box under the drivers seat, fitted an additional fusebox, then ran feeds out to the dash for USB etc. Flat twin core cable off ebay works a treat! 2009 Defender 90 CSW 2.4 TDCI.
Ex Army Mechanic still living the dream.
Post #960930 7th Aug 2022 2:37pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2520

Scotland 
Do the USB sockets not draw power even when not used?

Mine has a green LED which is lit when powered so I’ve always shied away from making it permanent powered for that reason, but the drain might be so small as to not be an issue?
Post #960934 7th Aug 2022 3:15pm
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matchap801



Member Since: 05 Aug 2021
Location: Somerset
Posts: 120

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Yes. But have a look a 12volt planet. A really good guide on relays, pick up an ignition live to generate it. 2009 Defender 90 CSW 2.4 TDCI.
Ex Army Mechanic still living the dream.
Post #960936 7th Aug 2022 3:41pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 983

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Retroanaconda wrote:
Do the USB sockets not draw power even when not used?

Mine has a green LED which is lit when powered so I’ve always shied away from making it permanent powered for that reason, but the drain might be so small as to not be an issue?


Correct. It‘s usually between 10-20mA, which is too much for my liking given I have a few of them. So either I have them connected to ignition live or a separate switch; I also soldered out the LED of one socket, reducing standby current to 7mA, out of curiosity and because I hate blue lights Wink
Post #960945 7th Aug 2022 4:45pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 983

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
matchap801 wrote:
Yes. But have a look a 12volt planet. A really good guide on relays, pick up an ignition live to generate it.


For a dual-battery camper setup it may be relevant to note that 12V relays draw a current of about 100..150mA when „on“.
This information is often hard to find. Usually the spec states its coil resistance. If that’s say 80 Ohm, the current will be 12V/80=150mA.
Post #960946 7th Aug 2022 5:00pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
Use your head unit USB if you have one, granted you won’t have high charging capacity but will charge.
You can get them to fit in a hole, the RH face of the glove box is ideal, to then connect to your HU.
However, you will need behind there a rear HU USB connection or a 12v to USB adaptor.

As mentioned, they can produce plenty of EMI, so some ferrite clips and shielding is ideal.

If you want higher current changing then use the lighter socket with a plug in adaptor.

Your other option is to use an “add a tap” feed from the lighter feed supply under the steering wheel. Fit a 5A fuse for the USB feed and 15A for the lighter feed.
This is then under the 20A max capacity stated.

The downside is, the lighter feed supply then can handle 15A and not 20A but I’ve not found that to be a problem, there are some grounding points around just above the pedals that are suitable to use and accessible you’ll need a crimp ring terminal though.

As I said, if you have a head unit with rear USB connection then that does make it easier, but if not you have a 12v to 5v USB adaptor you can wire.

Personally I’ve never seen a need for high capacity USB charging, usually the standard current will be quite sufficient.


There’s a few ideas that maybe of interest, this is based on a Puma but if you have something different check what your lighter feed current capacity is.

There are other solutions as other have suggested too, that will be fine but possibly more involved but there is some more ideas that maybe useful.

On mine I use the glove box port powered by HU for my phone (there is a 3.5mm audio jack in the same unit too) if I really needed high capacity USB charging then an adaptor for the lighter socket in the centre dash.
But also got hardwired USB supplies hidden too which are 12v input to USB 5v output.

Hope there is some ideals that maybe useful there, in fact you have quite a lot of options. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #960971 7th Aug 2022 9:20pm
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