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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
300TDi - 1995 Defender 130 Clutch Stuck??
Evening Rovers,

Been battling with my old girl (300tdi 1995 Defender 130) for some time, I am experiencing the issue where I couldn't rotate the engine over by the crank bolt but if I separate the GB from the engine the engine rotates..... Question Question

I've seen some guys on the interwebs speaking about seized clutches, the truck has only been down for 8 months.

The gearbox selector is in the neutral position but is there a way for me to fully confirm if the truck is indeed in neutral or not? Should I lift up the right rear wheel to see if it spins freely once the T-Case and the GB are in neutral?

Your advice is appreciated.
Post #987834 3rd Apr 2023 9:41pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1185

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
A seized clutch would mean that gearbox and engine are coupled together.

If the engine rotates without the gearbox then it's fine. If you then attach the gearbox and it's in neutral but you can't rotate the engine then the gearbox isn't in neutral and may be knackered. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #987872 4th Apr 2023 10:47am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1185

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
You could also knock the transfer case into neutral but if the gearbox is in neutral that should disconnect the engine from the output shaft of the gearbox.

If you disconnect the gearbox and Jack up a wheel then by rotating it the input shaft of the gearbox should not spin if either the transfer case or gearbox are in neutral. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #987873 4th Apr 2023 10:49am
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Ok i think i understand, but this is where my confusion begins because the gearbox is in neutral and i believe the Tcase is also but the engine wont turn over by hand.

What i do recall doing is disconnecting the linkages on the top of the GB where the top hat of the gear stick connects to, It is a possibility that i didnt reconnect them correctly??

because the gear box was working fine before i changed the clutch fork, that was literally all i did, change the clutch fork, master and slave cylinder, that was it.
Post #987957 4th Apr 2023 11:26pm
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 572

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
Idea - remove clutch slave cilinder and look into the clutch, if it is at least barely moving. Some small camera or miror can help you. Just to be sure, that you have not missed somethink simple, before removing of the gearbox. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #987966 5th Apr 2023 6:58am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1185

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
BajanRover wrote:
Ok i think i understand, but this is where my confusion begins because the gearbox is in neutral and i believe the Tcase is also but the engine wont turn over by hand.

What i do recall doing is disconnecting the linkages on the top of the GB where the top hat of the gear stick connects to, It is a possibility that i didnt reconnect them correctly??

because the gear box was working fine before i changed the clutch fork, that was literally all i did, change the clutch fork, master and slave cylinder, that was it.

I think you're still misunderstanding things.

The clutch only disconnects the engine from the gearbox, if the clutch mechanism isn't working then either the gearbox is permanently connected or permanently disconnected if the clutch isn't working. That in itself won't stop the engine turning over - something either inside or after the gearbox is doing that. Unless you've dropped something inside the bellhousing (between gearbox and engine) and it's jammed the flywheel to stop it rotating.

So either you have:
- Not enough strength - bear in mind you've got a diesel and once they reach the compression stroke it takes quite a force to actually turn it over.
- Something jammed in the bell housing
- Gearbox is jammed (don't think you can do it with just the linkages but if you've messed around with the selector forks then you can jam the gearbox internally I think).
- Gearbox and transfer box are in-gear (possibly gearbox is in gear even though you think it's in neutral) and thus being on the ground it's effectively engine braking.

I suggest you jack up a wheel / axle and try and turn it over - if the engine turns over and the wheel turns then your gearbox and transfer box are not in neutral.

If it's still jammed and the wheel does not turn then you have either jammed the flywheel with a lose bolt (for example) or possibly jammed the gearbox.

You can also remove the PTO cover plate on the back of the LT230 to see whether the output shaft of the gearbox is turning over. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #987991 5th Apr 2023 9:34am
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Thanks for clearing this up for me Sako, I will execute what you've advised to me today and update you accordingly, however, so far I did jack up the back diff taking both the rear wheels off the ground, when I select either high or low on the T-case the wheels do lock up when I turn them, when I select neutral from the T-case the wheels are free. So I am assuming this means the T-case is working fine.

What is interesting is if the Gearbox is in neutral and the T-case is engage in High or Low the wheels lock up which I guess implies the gearbox is still in gear although the gear stick itself feels as though it is in neutral, in fact I am certain it is in the neutral position at this point.

So why would this be? Mind you everything was working fine before I changed out the clutch fork, I never removed the clutch or pressure plate.

Are there any other things to check before I go removing the engine again?
Post #991201 2nd May 2023 5:46pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1185

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Okay to clarify you jacked up the rear axle, handbrake was off. If you did that I'd expect one of two things either the rear axle wheels to rotate in opposite directions when you spin one or if there's close enough loading then the rear propshaft will start turning.

So I think to get a better idea of what's going on do these explicitly.
1 - jack up both rear wheels, leave handbrake engaged, spin one wheel forwards and the opposite should spin in the reverse direction (assuming standard open diff)

2 - jack up one rear wheel only, hand brake off, transfer box in low or hi, gearbox in gear and clutch engaged (foot off the pedal). You should not be able to turn the wheel.

3 - same as two but transfer box in neutral, you should now see the rear prop rotating when you turn the wheels

4 - same as above but now keep transfer box in hi or low and select neutral in the main gearbox it should be possible to rotate the rear wheel still (5th should be the easiest to turn as you're going in reverse). It'll be quite a bit harder as your turning over more metal now but a breaker bar on the wheel nuts should help if needed.

If you can't turn over the rear wheel then that implies your gearbox is not in neutral. I think from memory you can simply remove the floor plates in the vehicle and the gearbox tunnel to access the top of the gearbox and then I'd be double checking linkages etc. You can manually move the selectors through the top of the gearbox if you have to but I'd double check your linkages first.

Once you've solved that problem then you should be able to wedge a piece of timber (or a helper) against the seatbox to hold the clutch down and try with everything in gear to see if the clutch is now free. If that still doesn't allow free movement then your clutch is also causing problems possibly. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #991240 2nd May 2023 9:24pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Thanks for the thorough checklist brother, i will run through this tomorrow and update.
Post #991244 2nd May 2023 9:36pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1185

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Really just a case of methodically working through the drive train Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #991246 2nd May 2023 9:39pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
That's true, I was also thinking how wobbly is the gear stick supposed to be when in neutral.... what I've noticed is that I can only select first gear, I can hear the syncro locking into the gear on the main shaft when I select 1st but not for any other gears.

Oh for some reason I decided to check to see if the gearbox had in sufficient fluid but to my surprise it took a whole quart and some of ATF before it started coming out of the fill hole, which gives me the impression that it was sitting down for a while with low oil.....

Also to add, I was successful in moving the truck under its own weight, it rolls on its four wheels.... not sure if this is valid information to share.
Post #991253 2nd May 2023 10:48pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1185

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
I'd say if you can hear first but not the others then something's amiss with the selectors.

When you moved it what was engaged / disengaged? Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #991260 3rd May 2023 6:41am
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
I am about to go back outside to resume troubleshooting using the generous checklist you provided yesterday.

The truck was situated on an incline next to my house, I asked a friend of mine to use his truck and pull me, I believe the T-Case was in neutral when it was moved.
Post #991315 3rd May 2023 1:41pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
sako243 wrote:
Really just a case of methodically working through the drive train


Alright so here is some insight for you after a bit of looking around this morning...… I did everything you guys suggested, Bled the clutch at its max throw, jacked up the wheels but here is one thing I noticed which was rather immediate and quite obvious, from the moment I loosened the bolts that mates the GB to the engine everything worked like it should, I can shift into any gear and the engine rotates from the starter motor like normal but as soon as I tighten back the bolts the engine doesn't turn over any longer and the gears are then again impossible to get into....



My guess is that I damaged something in between the GB and the engine during my first attempts on getting everything back together.....I will resume after lunch and pull the engine out and remove the clutch and pressure plate and see what's up with that.

What are your thoughts?
Post #991338 3rd May 2023 4:41pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 790

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Pilot bearing?
Post #991339 3rd May 2023 4:48pm
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