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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 4908

United Kingdom 
battery light and oil light staying on.
My dad has just changed his alternator over, due to the charging light coming on and staying on last week. Its been coming on and off a few months, so he has changed it for an uprated unit. Anyway he has found that the alternator light and oil light is now staying on for some reason. What could be causing this? Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #950030 21st Apr 2022 8:08pm
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htb2



Member Since: 02 Nov 2018
Location: aberdeenshire
Posts: 507

Scotland 
Voltage regulator ?
Post #950037 21st Apr 2022 8:24pm
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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 4908

United Kingdom 
where is that located on these? Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #950039 21st Apr 2022 8:33pm
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htb2



Member Since: 02 Nov 2018
Location: aberdeenshire
Posts: 507

Scotland 
Sorry meant voltage stabiliser, not sure if they are on defenders, or where but when they go wrong used to give fluctuating gauges and odd electrical warning lights.
Used to be on the back of the instrument cluster, but I'm thinking early Range rovers and series LR's.
Post #950040 21st Apr 2022 8:43pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
The lights coming on will be because the voltage is below what it should be, voltage test the battery at rest and then with the engine running.
It will have a cut off point where the lights should I go out if the voltage exceeds a certain voltage when running which is how it should be.

Typical battery voltage at rest will be around 12.2v to 12.8v, below 12v is rather low.
With engine running and alternator running it should be around 13.4v 14.8v approx.

Voltage at idle should be fairly stable up to around 200mV or 0.2v negative or positive either way is fairly normal but will vary more dependant on load but this is based at idle with little load.

The battery can be duff as well, usually low voltage at rest is a tell take and difficulty in cranking compared to normal with that. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
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Post #950055 21st Apr 2022 10:03pm
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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 4908

United Kingdom 
the thing is its had a new battery on it about 2 years ago. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #950075 22nd Apr 2022 6:50am
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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 4908

United Kingdom 
well its seems to be sitting at 12v at idle and when motor is off, But when its at high revs, it seems to climb to 14v. but the lights are still not coming off the dash. Not sure if the car needs a good run. We changed the earth lead on the battery to gearbox, which looked very ropy. Its seems to start ok, any other pointers we can test?

We did put the full smash on to make the battery drop 11v, then as soon as the full smash was off, the battery climbed back to 12v Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #950257 23rd Apr 2022 5:21pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
Mine sits at around 14.4 - 14.6v with alternator charging current.

I have a feeling that the cut off is 14.2v as it’s deigned to tell you that the alternator isn’t providing the charging current it should.
Though don’t quote me on this as with load voltage can drop.
But typical expected cheating voltage is 13.8v - 14.8v.
13.8 - 14v is a bit low, I would be happier to see approx 14.2 - 14.4 as a minimum with no load on it.

Give the battery a charge and see how that goes then try it.

Battery at rest shouldn’t really go below 12v at all unless momentarily during high load cranking. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #950262 23rd Apr 2022 6:00pm
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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 4908

United Kingdom 
i have said to give it a charge or a good run to see, what are the positive leads like on these on failing? my dad was giving a small lead to go from the alternator to the starter. He has left the very large one that goes around the side of the engine and right to the back to the starter unit.
he is not sure what the red wire is used for in the kit

https://www.paddockspares.com/200-tdi-defe...98QAvD_BwE Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #950270 23rd Apr 2022 7:12pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2062

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey
12v at rest is pretty much flat.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.
Post #950312 24th Apr 2022 9:26am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2062

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey


Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.
Post #950313 24th Apr 2022 9:29am
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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 4908

United Kingdom 
Well my dad had an auto sparky out today to have a look at it, as the system wasn't charging.
the auto sparky found that the main lead to the alternator to the starter was fried, and the new alternator was Censored .
Not sure what the hell, has happened there.
I said that you can return the alternator back as its a dud part, but he has mentioned that it cannot be returned if the parts been wrongly fitted etc. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #950637 26th Apr 2022 3:16pm
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