 | Home > Technical > Fuel line connectors broken |
 
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 274   
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I was in a similar situation to you a year or so ago when I dropped the tank on my 110 to replace the rear cross member.
As far as I can see Td5 fuel pipe is 6mm internal diameter, perhaps consider cutting your pipes with the broken ends, replace with standard 6mm ID fuel pipe with inline connectors then you can fit your new nakatanenga fittings into the new pipes. The OEM pipes are incredibly expensive for what they are. |
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28th Apr 2022 11:01am |
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| oscaryocho Member Since: 08 Apr 2022 Location: Quimper Posts: 20  
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Hi man, thanks for your response !
So if I understand correctly, you suggest to cut off 30-40mm of the pipe behind the broken connector, heat it and insert a male/male connector to the freshly cut pipe, then connect a new section of pipe (30-40mm again) and insert the connector which goes in the fuel pump ? That sounds pretty straight forward and way easier than redoing the entire fuel lines ! Thanks a lot again, I'll try and keep you updated about how it goes, I think I'll have to wait a few days to get all the necessary parts but then it will be pretty fast I hope ! |
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28th Apr 2022 1:07pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 274
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Yes, that's what I would suggest, as your pipe connectors are damaged you have nothing to lose, just be careful as the existing pipes have bends formed into them so straight pipe will need to be long enough to avoid tight radiuses which could reduce flow. Make sure they are supported/secured to avoid chaffing as well.
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28th Apr 2022 1:23pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 274
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Some forums suggest the ID of the pipes is 8mm, not 6mm, cut it to find out for certain before buying connectors. |
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28th Apr 2022 1:33pm |
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| oscaryocho Member Since: 08 Apr 2022 Location: Quimper Posts: 20
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All right, I'll check for the diameter this evening and I'll try to get my hands on some corresponding connectors in hope it'll work !
Do you have an idea of what the inside pipe is made out of ? It looks like plastic or nylon to me but it also seems to be easily breakable so, is heating it sufficient for it to welcome the connector without breaking into pieces ? |
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28th Apr 2022 1:52pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 274
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Don’t know what they’re made of, sorry. When heating try dipping in boiling water first before going full on with heat guns or blow lamps!
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28th Apr 2022 6:12pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7681 
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Cut back the outer rubber of the hose to expose the internal pipe, 8mm. Warm that then insert the new nakamura Ali parts go replace broken fittings. Works a treat, they are just tricky to fit. Did one earlier this year, same problem as you. Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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28th Apr 2022 7:26pm |
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| oscaryocho Member Since: 08 Apr 2022 Location: Quimper Posts: 20
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Hi guys, figured I'd give a feedback on what I did after the messages you've sent.
So as @Penfold_6290 suggested, I cut off the fuel lines that were broken right behind the connector, I then removed the rubber outter protection on 5cm I'd say. I now had a clean cutted pipe ready to welcome a new connector. I didn't really wanted to waste time on buying a new fuel pipe to add 4 to 5cm before plugging the connector that goes in the fuel pump so I've heated the pipes end with some boiling water and then pushed the connectors in place. Once fully in place, I've tightened the pipe around the connector using collars just to be sure it wouldn't go off. Now that everything was in place, I placed the tank where it should be and reconnected everything. If my fuel line had been 5mm shorter, I wouldn't have been able to reconnect it to the pump so I feel pretty lucky aha. I've then launched the fuel pump bleeding cycle by pressing the accelerator 5 times, waited till it was done and then started the vehicle. It started fine after struggling a bit. After driving 5min to be sure enough fuel was coming well to the engine, I've stopped the vehicle and tried to start it again and it started really well. Since then, it starts really good pretty much every time so I'm really happy ! Thanks a lot for your help everyone !! Cheers !! |
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5th May 2022 12:56pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 274
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Great to hear you're sorted, I have an inspection plate in my workshop that has been bought specifically for when I have a fuel pump issue. I plan to cut a hole in the floor to access the pump in situ rather than go through the pain of dropping the tank again. The inspection plate will then be fitted over the hole to maintain a watertight seal between chassis and body. This is how you access the fuel pump in a Discovery, I can't understand why they didn't do similar in a Defender.
 Click image to enlarge |
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5th May 2022 1:17pm |
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| oscaryocho Member Since: 08 Apr 2022 Location: Quimper Posts: 20
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I man, great to hear from you !
All the process during, I was asking myself why they didn't make the easy checking opening in the trunk like they did on the disco. For something that is known to be faulty, it is a rather complicated process to remove the tank and to fit it back in once it has been dropped whereas with a little opening in the trunk it would be so easy ! The air return pipe that comes from the tank and goes back in the filling hose is not fully in place, I need to replace the existing collar with an adaptable one to make sure it doesn't go away with vibrations ! Other than that, it works really well ! |
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5th May 2022 1:53pm |
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| MalteseRover Member Since: 02 Jul 2013 Location: Gozo Posts: 131 
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hello,
I just finished cleaning the fuel pump and hoping to put it back on but snapped the green pipe's connector as I was twisting the tank up in place. Are these the aluminium connectors that you are talking about/using? https://www.nakatanenga.de/en/vehicle-equi...-lines-set regards Joseph |
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13th Mar 2023 11:09pm |
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| oscaryocho Member Since: 08 Apr 2022 Location: Quimper Posts: 20
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Hi mate,
Yeah, so these are the ones ! In order to put them in place I had to cut the line behind the existing connector then heat it with a heat gun and gradually pull the new connector in the pull out to widen the plastic line. Once i had placed the connector all the way in, I made sure it was leak proof by adding a little hose clamp juste to be sure ! The downside of this method is that you shorten the fuel line and it becomes harder to reach the gas pump ! Hope it helps !! Have a great day  |
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14th Mar 2023 10:11am |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 788 
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Man.. I just had to change out all my fuel lines. What a pain.. cursed the designers a few times.
On my 2003 Oman Td5 110 all these lines were hard a rock and while shifting the air intake hose I cracked the return line. Already the PO had made some repairs which were seeping diesel. I dismantled a 1999 which suffered badly from rust but all plastics are good. I stripped the fuel system for parts and now had no choice but to fit. The threading out and in of these lines with all the diesel is a real pain, but it went in fine with no damage. Found 3 more repairs in the original lines all copper clamps, not sure that is sound, but you know Oman... At least could tell the wife about all that money we saved.. Sure - eyes rolling -.. |
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16th Mar 2023 7:23pm |
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| mwestcrew Member Since: 09 Dec 2019 Location: South Warwickshire Posts: 216 
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Plastic connector replacements are available cheaply.
They are called id6 7.89mm quick connectors The tool to fit them is about £80 plus VAT but it does loads of sizes od push in connectors. Very handy to have. With the tool you can put male and female couplers onto damaged lines as a repair too. 2011 130 Utility Body 2005 110 Van |
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16th Mar 2023 11:47pm |
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