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LandymanStefan

Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

The isolator is a two zone isolator, the idea is the top part of the panel, the first 'zone' is one very high output conector capable of delivering the batteries full 100amp capability to something like an inverter whilst having 2 'backup' usb's and a voltmeter.

Position 2 disables the top 2 connectors and enables the rest of the panel which can be configured to whatever the user needs, i opted for 6 usbs as all my camping equipment is charged by usb , 2 hella plugs as they are much more secure than cigar lighters and one is required for my fridge and the other feeds a fusbox in the back of my truck for some aux lights. Finally at the bottom i have a 50 amp connector that i can run my compressor from.

The box has a built in 120mm temperature sensitive fan (mainly switches on and off when the dc-dc charger is running.

To the rear i have my solar input, mains input and dc-dc charger input. The reason my dc-dc input is larger than the other is that i run a master ground to the truck through this connection in a 25mm2 cable. This means accesories on my car can run from a simple live wire which i run through the hella sockets. This enables me to easily switch my rear lights from truck power or aux battery power. You could run a fully isolated setup with a matching size blue plug but it would mean your accesories would all need grounding to the box.

EDIT: Having thought about your own situation a bit more you could easily piggyback a ctek charging socket into the back of the blue anderson connector that supplies current to the battery box as that just goes to the battery. Also in theory you could use this supply to the battery box to power a compressor but you'd be better off with a same size connector as the yellow and red ones and sacrificing a main ground to the truck from the box. As for VSR vs DC-DC, vsr's have a bigger voltage drop and are overall less efficient. If you go down the lithium route you have to use a dc-dc as the lithium battery connected directly to a VSR and main battery will pull too much current.

19th Apr 2022 4:11pm

macfrank

Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1117

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

awesome

20th Apr 2022 5:41pm

DSC-off

Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1475

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

Rather than hijack this thread, I've made a post about adding a split charge to a removable battery box:

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83243.html

Click image to enlarge

21st Apr 2022 10:16am

carpetsauce

Member Since: 19 Mar 2021
Location: Essex
Posts: 58

Simple 12v Charging through Trailer Socket

Using a trailer plug to keep your battery charged avoids the inconvenience of cables appearing under doors or the bonnet.

If you have a trailer socket connect a fly lead to a trailer plug using the permanent power and the ground connections on the plug. Connect the fly lead wires to your battery charger (+ to +, - to -), put the charger in one of your partner's best tupperware to keep it dry. You now have an easily removable and inexpensive battery charging outfit.

21st Apr 2022 6:46pm

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