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MussEd



Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 345

Scotland 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Baltic Blue
Electrics advice
Bouyed by some recent success in fitting a powered DAB aerial booster (in know child’s play!) - I want to fit some extra accessories to MY13 USW. Namely remote Anderson jump start terminals in the engine bay, and at the same time 12v power supply to the rear of the vehicle for additional load space LED strip and scene lights. Whilst I’m at it I may as well add an aux socket back there too.

Been sifting through loads of posts on here and some of the work people have carried out is truly impressive but the sheer range of possibilities has me going round in circles now.

So my first question is - what is the simplest and safest way of achieving what I need to do?

One power feed to all the required accessories in the rear would be my preferred option rather than tapping into different feeds(like rear wiper/door switches) but I’m a bit unclear on how to do this. Extra fuse box in battery box/feed to back then what? (I don’t have the purple wire at the back and don’t fancy murdering my towing electrics)

With regards the Anderson Connectors thinking an isolation switch on front of battery box then a cable run out and back into the engine bay - then mount it up beside heater box.

I think I’m right in saying I’m not at the point where an auxiliary battery and split charge is not necessary for what I need. BUT would it be worthwhile doing that now if I’m changing stuff around the battery box anyway? Kids are getting older and longer camping trips could be on the horizon…

Thanks in advance for any advice!
Post #948210 5th Apr 2022 6:11pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Ok the first ting you need to do is think ahead. Calculate what and how many accessories you want on the circuit and specifically what the max amperage is likely to be. Then add 25% extra for accessories you haven't thought of yet. From that you get your gauge of wire, shut off switch and fuse amperages.

FYI: Amps = Watts / Volts

The routing is the easy part, out the battery box, along the chassis rails to wherever you want the distribution board to be. From the distribution board you wire in the accessories with fuses and relays.

When it comes to siting things like anderson connectors then the GMB wing top lockable box is a good solution for security, ease of access and storage.

If you are thinking of a winch at some point then this is the perfect time to run the two cables (+ve and -ve) to the front and use this for your front accessories. Later you can spur off this for the accessories when you fit your winch.

Building in the capability at this stage will save you so much time, effort and money later on.

Be warned though, wiring is a tad addictive and the best place to begin after you list of accessories and capacities is to draw yourself up a wiring diagram that leads to a from the battery. It's a satisfying task over a beer or coffee Smile
Post #948217 5th Apr 2022 7:00pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Re: Electrics advice
MussEd wrote:
One power feed to all the required accessories in the rear would be my preferred option rather than tapping into different feeds(like rear wiper/door switches) but I’m a bit unclear on how to do this. Extra fuse box in battery box/feed to back then what? (I don’t have the purple wire at the back and don’t fancy murdering my towing electrics)


That's exactly what I did. A single feed from the battery box (via a second battery, although that's not essential) to a fuse box and various controls in the rear. For my purposes, I have taken feeds from side, brake and reverse lights but again, that's not strictly necessary. Depends how you want things to work, really.


Click image to enlarge

Anyway, there's lots more detail in my build thread:

Auxiliary Electrics Pt 1 - Rear Quarter Mounting Panel
Auxiliary Electrics Pt 2 - Fabrication and Wiring Diagram
Auxiliary Electrics Pt 3 - Main Power Feed and Work Lights
Auxiliary Electrics Pt 4 - Circuit Components
Auxiliary Electrics Pt 5 - Wiring Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #948227 5th Apr 2022 8:01pm
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MussEd



Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 345

Scotland 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Baltic Blue
Lol - LRA you know I’ve been marvelling at your handiwork for days now! Bow down May have to tone down my tribute act cos there’s no way I’m reaching that level! Some truly excellent ideas as ever, if whatever I do eventually do turns out half as good as your work I’ll be happy enough!

And Geobloke - some excellent points there, thanks for the response!
Post #948244 5th Apr 2022 8:29pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Thanks for the kind words but I'll freely admit that I've overcomplicated it to achieve the functionality that I wanted. The basic idea is sound and relatively straightforward though. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #948246 5th Apr 2022 8:38pm
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MussEd



Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 345

Scotland 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Baltic Blue
A wee update
I'm afraid I'm still obsessing over the best way I can tackle the aux electrics in the rear. So much so that I can't decide what to do! The bit that is freaking me out is how to control the lights/sockets so a bit more research required. My wiring 'diagrams' are so billy-basic I'd be embarrassed to show them on here.

As a result I've decided to push on with the Anderson connectors part of my electrical project, ordered all I think I'll need and can't wait for the various bits to arrive so I can get stuck in.
Post #948652 8th Apr 2022 3:30pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 983

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Smile
Just don't forget the most important basics:
- correct minimum wire gauges: must match the calculated max amperage and also wire length; there are online calculators for that
- same goes for the ground (return) wires
- fuses go as close to the battery as possible; they protect the wires not the accessories. *Additional* fuses for each outlet farther away from the battery wont harm, though.
- perfect crimp connections each time, using the right tools; don't bodge!
- protect wires in automotive non-flammable conduit
- a wiring diagram Smile
- patience Wink
Post #948698 8th Apr 2022 8:10pm
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MussEd



Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 345

Scotland 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Baltic Blue
Well, some progress of sorts. Recently finished off the Anderson jump leads and engine bay Plug the other day. Hope never to have to use it but it’s there if required.


And whilst I deliberate endlessly over how to set up auxiliary fuse board and distribution I took a rush of blood today and fitted my Whelen Perimeter scene light. Temporarily wired into the unused rear window demister. Once I sort out the aux fusebox situation I’ll hopefully ibstall out a switch at the rear of the vehicle. Btw If you’d told me when I first bought this very expensive car that a few years later I’d be happy to drill holes through body panels, I’d have laughed in your face.



Ps if anyone knows of a source of replacement Puma switch fascias - please give me a shout…
Post #951723 5th May 2022 9:20pm
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