 | Home > In Car Electronics (L663) > Installed a Valentine One |
 
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| DaveCNB Member Since: 15 Mar 2022 Location: So. Cal Posts: 52  
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Well, I'm really nerding out with installing gadgets into the Defender this week.
 Click image to enlarge I installed the V1 to the driver's side of the plastic housing for the forward windshield cameras, the controls are within easy reach to mute an alert and to adjust the volume. Also, in this position, it's easy to flip the sun visor down to completely cover the V1 from sight from the rear/sides. All told took about an hour including going down to the local auto parts store to get an Add-A-Fuse Micro (I was taking my time). V1's essentially use a telephone cable to carry power/ground and signals for accessories like a remote display, remote volume control, SAVVY, etc. Since it is flat, it's quite easy to tuck into the trim for a neat install. I used an 8' cable which was just enough given the way I wired things up, using something a little longer would give you some more slack/space to work with. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I ran the cable in this slot which retains it nicely. Click image to enlarge Then up between the windshield and headliner around to the A-Pillar. Click image to enlarge It seemed safer to run the cable towards the front of the A-Pillar so as not to cause interference w/ the side airbags if they deploy from the A-Pillars at all (not sure about that). Click image to enlarge I have to push the cable in a little more but you get the idea. Click image to enlarge I went down the side next to the magnesium grab handle, under the black rubber seal, at some point you'll find that you can pull the cable in/under/into the dash area and into the passenger side fuse box area. To access the fuse box, have a look at this video by PowerfulUKLtd which explains it very well: I used an Add-A-Fuse Micro -- something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ucland-Circuit-Adap...amp;sr=8-5 or https://www.amazon.com/Ucland-Micro-Add-Ci...amp;sr=8-6 I did not remove the magnesium side handle panel as I was able to get in and plug in the Add-A-Fuse and run my wiring through the space behind the glove box. I picked an unoccupied 5 amp fuse socket and then connected the Add-A-Fuse's hot lead to the V1's Direct Wire Power Adapter https://store.valentine1.com/store/item.asp?i=20305 And voila : ) Oh and also installed some super low key auxillary lights in the grill: Click image to enlarge If anyone is interested in a write up on doing those, let me know. Used a nice pre-made wiring harness, power taken off that accessory power junction box at the passenger side of the engine compartment near where the jumper cable points are. Lights are held in a spot where they wedged in perfectly augmented with some 3M Exterior Attachment Tape, no drilling required at all. The lamp modules in that location only block ~1 ½" of airflow to the radiator. Unfortunately, I didn't take pics during the install but it wasn't difficult and it also came out very clean. |
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22nd Mar 2022 8:22am |
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| DaveCNB Member Since: 15 Mar 2022 Location: So. Cal Posts: 52
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I've run a V1 for like 15 years (and have upgraded to a newer version once or twice over the years) and it's saved me from MANY tickets. I pretty much won't do a long highway/road trip without one.
I like the V1's direction arrows (it can track multiple radar sources and tell you what type they are, their strength and which direction the signals are coming from. There are other really good Radar Detectors on the market, some also have the ability to discern which direction the radar is coming from (now that Valentine's patent on using dual front/rear facing radar antennas has run out). You can also get a bluetooth module (and the latest generation has bluetooth built in) so that you can run an app on your smart phone or tablet for more sophisticated tracking, moving map w/ recorded known false signals that you can lock out, there is are a coupe of Android apps that also pulls in live and historical data from other drivers that are running it (rare) and more. A Radar Detector's effectiveness all depends on where, how you're using it and the terrain (and a bit o luck). It won't save you if you're going to just speed blindly or if you don't want to make the effort to implement some strategies. I find them pretty useless in the cities here in the US (so many radar signals from collision avoidance system and false signals from automatic store doors) and have X-Band turned off, K band muted and Ka band on full alert as Ka is most likely a real signal out here. The Lidar detection on the V1 is pretty good, but unless you're lucky enough to get a splash off a car in front of you getting hit by Lidar, a Lidar hit is usually notification that you're about to get pulled over... I've had good luck on long drives through open country where I find someone who is going fast who I use as a "rabbit" or bait. I let them pass me, match speeds about a quarter to an eighth of a mile behind them and let them flush out all the police who are running radar guns ahead of us. They get hit and by then I've slowed down and cruise by them as they're pulled over : ) In open flat country, I've picked up police radar as far as 5 miles away with my V1, so plenty of warning. Not sure if Radar Detectors are legal in the UK, but the V1 does cover EU radar frequencies and you can set custom frequency ranges to scan and lock out known false source frequencies (ie. collision avoidance systems in many cars). YMMV but cheaper than a speeding ticket, traffic school and higher insurance rates! |
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22nd Mar 2022 10:05am |
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