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J1990



Member Since: 24 Aug 2021
Location: South West
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tamar Blue
ELI5 - Central Locking & Heated Seats
As someone who has nothing in the way of electrical knowledge/skills I was hoping for some helpful advice on the two topics from the title.

Central Locking - I had the infamous failure of the central locking on the second row doors on my 110 puma, after taking the door card and membrane off I fixed the nearside after finding that it was actually just too stiff for the actuator and some TLC got that going again. The offside is a break in the wiring in the gaiter. Whilst fixing this I feel like I might as well replace this known weakpoint on all the doors and get the job done, especially since I also want to get some sound deadening in the doors. Just looking for a confirmation on what gauge of wire to use here and I wouldn't turn down any times on 'easily' removing the door membrane if anyone has some.

Heated Seats - I quickly found that the driver's heated seat is no more than a light coming on when I press the button, whereas the passenger side gets a little warm. Any tips on what/how I'd check where the fault is at the driver's side. The seats are currently out of the vehicle whilst I soundproof the front so it seems like prime time to get this addressed. Also happy to replace the seat heater pads with an aftermarket kit if that's more likely and/or quicker to get a resolution but I've no idea where to start when troubleshooting.

Thanks in advance,
Jamie


PS - ELI5 = Explain Like I'm 5, which is definitely an accurate requirement here.
Post #943512 23rd Feb 2022 8:55am
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steveww



Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 512

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green
Looking at the wiring diagram for the window lifters 2.0mm2 cable is what's used.

You can buy it by the meter in many colours.
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/25-amp-sing...cable.html


On the heated seats the circuit is simple battery, switch, heater. Check that there is a voltage at the heater element. If so, the element is dead, this is the most common failure point. Replacement heater elements are available from the usual suspects.
Post #943516 23rd Feb 2022 9:57am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Re. the CDL, be aware that on the whole whatever you use to repair the broken wires will eventually break again since the overall design is deficient. You can get longer life by using a high-flex test lead cable (for example https://www.technobotsonline.com/flexible-...mm-m.html, noting that this is a random link to the type of cable and not an endorsement of this particular cable), but eventually the same thing will happen.

The root cause is the way that the rubber trunk for the second row doors has both the door and B-post locating points at the same height, so that every time the door is opened the wires contained within flex through nearly 180 degrees. If you compare this with the first row doors where the trunk locating points are at different heights, and you will see that these (which were evidently not designed by a halfwit) are vertically separated wit the result that the wires inside flex far less.

I have modified my second row wiring as shown in the photo below, and since doing so have not had any further trouble (not yet, anyway), prior to this I was rewiring these wretched things about once a year.


Click image to enlarge


You might also want to take a look at this thread, central locking problems have been discussed fairly thoroughly over the years.
Post #943517 23rd Feb 2022 10:00am
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J1990



Member Since: 24 Aug 2021
Location: South West
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tamar Blue
steveww wrote:
Looking at the wiring diagram for the window lifters 2.0mm2 cable is what's used.

You can buy it by the meter in many colours.
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/25-amp-sing...cable.html


On the heated seats the circuit is simple battery, switch, heater. Check that there is a voltage at the heater element. If so, the element is dead, this is the most common failure point. Replacement heater elements are available from the usual suspects.


Thanks Steve, as daft as it may be I've been through plenty of the threads on the central locking and it was purely the wire gauge I was baffled by and for whatever reason I couldn't bring myself to just cut a a stretch off and head to the hardware store to eyeball it. I'll head in at lunch and try grab some 2.0mm2.

With regards to the heated seats, I'll give that a go and see how I get on. I guess I can at least start by testing on the passenger side since I know the seat works and ensure I'm getting a positive result there Very Happy
Post #943518 23rd Feb 2022 10:05am
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J1990



Member Since: 24 Aug 2021
Location: South West
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tamar Blue
blackwolf wrote:
Re. the CDL, be aware that on the whole whatever you use to repair the broken wires will eventually break again since the overall design is deficient. You can get longer life by using a high-flex test lead cable (for example https://www.technobotsonline.com/flexible-...mm-m.html, noting that this is a random link to the type of cable and not an endorsement of this particular cable), but eventually the same thing will happen.

The root cause is the way that the rubber trunk for the second row doors has both the door and B-post locating points at the same height, so that every time the door is opened the wires contained within flex through nearly 180 degrees. If you compare this with the first row doors where the trunk locating points are at different heights, and you will see that these (which were evidently not designed by a halfwit) are vertically separated wit the result that the wires inside flex far less.

I have modified my second row wiring as shown in the photo below, and since doing so have not had any further trouble (not yet, anyway), prior to this I was rewiring these wretched things about once a year.


Click image to enlarge


You might also want to take a look at this thread, central locking problems have been discussed fairly thoroughly over the years.


Thanks Blackwolf, that's one of the threads I'd seen when initially searching and it just seems so typically LR for the design to be different between the front and rear routing for the cabling, with one of them working fine and the other being notorious for repeated breaking. Anyway, your modification seems like the most pain-free solution here so that I'm not removing the membranes continuously and driving myself mad.
Post #943519 23rd Feb 2022 10:08am
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