 | Home > Tdi > Defender 90 TDi 300 Coolant Plug removal ideas |
 
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| Cubflyer Member Since: 25 Sep 2021 Location: Suffolk Posts: 278   
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Evening folk
Just had my coolant flushed/refilled yesterday but could NOT remove to top coolant plug, it really is stubborn! The outer head is a 20mm hex and the centre internal hex is 10.7mm. Putting a 20mm socket on it is a waste of time as the plastic plug is too soft and will just round off the corners. I've machined a 12mm piece of hex bar to 10.75mm for the centre and a quick tap seated tightly in place but as soon as I attempt to turn it to undo it, the plug flexes about a millimeter and if I continue I'm sure I'll round it too! Even tried a 20mm spanner on the outer plug and the hex allen key in the centre and tried turning both together ... both surfaces just want to distort and round.  Click image to enlarge So, I think I've no choice other than to break it out but I'm concerned about plastic bits dropping into the coolant system ... So how could I best achieve it please?? Many thanks John ... and yes I've ordered new metal plugs! 2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994) 2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994) Last edited by Cubflyer on 21st Dec 2021 1:38pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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19th Dec 2021 8:53pm |
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| Cubflyer Member Since: 25 Sep 2021 Location: Suffolk Posts: 278
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Evening M
Thanks very much for taking time to reply - much appreciated! Like the idea of cutting the flange shoulders off, that certainly will give more depth for the socket's grip 
Must admit I'm surprised that the plug is a of plastic/nylon construction but I guess there are millions out there! Personally, I won't be fitting the plastic Bearmack BR3485 to replace it, however I note they also produce a brass version (BR3485B) which is top of my list before I try to get this stuck plug out. BR John 2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994) 2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994) |
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19th Dec 2021 11:33pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 552 
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I used the brass replacement too.
I hope it all goes well. Mine took perseverance with the rocking backwards and forwards but it did the trick. I used a T bar on the socket so you don't have to keep reversing a ratchet. Good luck with it but expect the worst that way its a bonus if it does come free. |
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20th Dec 2021 12:07am |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 758 
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They were never a good idea and ideally should be replaced at the first opportunity.
I fitted the X-Eng alloy items to both the engine & rad as soon as my TDi was out of manufacturers warranty, the one on the engine especially has been on / off numerous times and is as good today as when fitted. The beauty of these is that you don't need a spanner / socket as any bar that fits the slot does the job perfectly. Click image to enlarge ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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20th Dec 2021 1:09pm |
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| Cubflyer Member Since: 25 Sep 2021 Location: Suffolk Posts: 278
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Thanks to those that replied
 ...
Started the job this morning and done with 10 minutes! Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Definitely the removal process that Mossberg offered worked for me! I just used a little Acto Modelling knife with a chisel blade and took the flanges off the 6 sides giving a more than doubled depth for the socket to grip then simply slowly applied pressure and out the plug came. Cleaned the top surface, topped up with water and fitted a new BRASS plug. Click image to enlarge Note: The old Bearmach BR3485 PLASTIC plug should take a 20mm socket externally, but also has an Allen key insert which in my option is a much use as "tits on a fish!" It's size is 10.7mm so too sloppy for a 10mm Allen key and too small for an 11mm. The replacement Britpart ERR4686B (BRASS) takes a 21mm socket and has a screwdriver slot in the middle. I also googled this issue on other LR/4x4 forums and it seems very common, in a lot of cases the head of the plug snapping off so take your time! Once again Mossberg - Thanks! ... and Litch, thanks for making me aware of the X-Eng option 2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994)
2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994) |
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21st Dec 2021 12:39pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 552
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It is good to know this method worked for you too as hopefully it may also work for others. The size of the hex section on the plastic plug is just too small.
It's also good to be able to share an experience that has helped others rather than being on the receiving end of help all the time. ATB Mick |
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21st Dec 2021 3:31pm |
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| Cubflyer Member Since: 25 Sep 2021 Location: Suffolk Posts: 278
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Hi Mick - Totally agree, and yes good to give back!
A further note about replacement plugs. In my haste to make sure I had a replacement metal plug before I started I saw a BRITPART ERR4686BLUE plug stocked by a local 4x4 business and thought they looked a little more "Up market" then the basic brass BRITPART ERR4686B plug so I bought two - MISTAKE! Slightly more expensive than the basic brass BRITPART plug but they were cheaper than the X-Eng plugs mentioned by Litch above. Click image to enlarge Bottom line - DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY!! They are beautifully machined, great thread and crisp edges for spanners/sockets .. BUT ... CRAP sizing! Should be for a 21mm socket / spanner size but infact were 21.4mm so TOO BIG for 21mm tool and TOO sloppy for a 22mm. The square in the top is pretty useless at 13.6mm HTH someone. Merry Christmas and stay safe all! John 2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994) 2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994) |
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21st Dec 2021 4:26pm |
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