 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > 2.4 TDCI power issue |
 
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| alwoodley72 Member Since: 14 Mar 2010 Location: salisbury, wilts Posts: 716   
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Check coolant level. If the car believes it’s getting too hot it can go into limp, had it on an old one of mine after a while of motorway work… the error codes can last a while.
Had a tdi Passat that would limp on occasion, worked out it was when I’d accelerated then lifted quickly. Mechanic said turbo worn so slightly out of perimeter for ecu, solution was to turn on/ off on the fly, fun in the fast lane of the M3! Always worked though…! Worth trying.. Cheers Alex 98 300 tdi 90 project 94 Range Rover vogue 4.2 lse 79 911 sc 08 130 double cab utility |
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13th Sep 2021 10:53pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240  
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Alex's call is a good one. If it thinks it's overheating (even if it's not) then it goes into limp mode to protect itself, which is exactly what you've described. Once it's cooled, or thinks it has, then normal service is resumed. Unfortunately, there are many and varied reasons why this might be happening, a lot of which won't flag obvious or indeed any fault codes. This includes, at one extreme, a head gasket failure as reported by somebody here only a couple of weeks ago, to at the other a duff cylinder head temp (CHT) sensor.
Other potential failures could be the water pump or the viscous fan coupling, or even a partially blocked radiator, either inside or out. Were there any other symptoms when it happened such as the temp gauge rising or the temp gauge immediately going to maximum and then dropping off? Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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14th Sep 2021 8:25am |
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| Rivarama Member Since: 28 Aug 2021 Location: London Posts: 155 
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Thanks for the input both. The list is scary !! I would to avoid fixing 10thi gs in the hope it could be that 😝
As for the the temperature, it all sat happily under the half way point throughout and the coolant level is sitting perfectly on the midpoint of the tank. I am not convinced it has anything to do with the temperature, as an engine switch off/in makes the issue disappear… Will investigate the booster pipes thoroughly and proceed to the next steps (I guess from the least costly to the more costly??) |
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14th Sep 2021 9:27am |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2224  
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Is the error code 'over boost' or 'under boost' ?
Sounds like an overboost due to gummed up turbo vanes. Read the following https://www.defender2.net/forum/post561963.html https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62985.html > 110 XS Double Cab > Instagram @simonlanemind |
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14th Sep 2021 10:22am |
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| Minch90 Member Since: 15 Sep 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 227
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I’ve had this three times and agree with all above and more. Mine is a ‘58 2.4 bought at 19k now 54k.
First time was water pump leakage (behaved as described for a couple of weeks, then failure (all coolant on the road). Next was dirty fuel filter due to leaky breather pipe, no power, turn on/off and all is good again. Third was knackered vcv and sticky turbo. Short trips don’t help this so I’m lead to believe. Anyway new MAF, VCV and spray turbo cleaner stuff and all is good again. What the 4th time will be I don’t know. I do use periodic injector cleaner, routine Millers and periodic turbo cleaner now as mine does 19mi twice daily 4 days a week, oh and any opportunity for a longer cross country run 👍 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround |
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14th Sep 2021 1:39pm |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 980
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A friend of mine had exactly the same problem. He went through all the bits, as above, and eventually found the solution was mud blocking the radiator. He said it was blocking some sensor and hence the ECU thought it was overheating. He cleared the mud between the two radiators and its been ok since. Hope that helps. Peter PS he said it was a long and difficult job.
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15th Sep 2021 11:45am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6264 
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Just a thought.
if low mileage and 'looked after' perhaps through not giving it plenty of beans the turbo vanes are rather dirty and acuator isn't working correctly? does it have egr blanked off? |
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15th Sep 2021 6:39pm |
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| Rivarama Member Since: 28 Aug 2021 Location: London Posts: 155
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I have bought a bottle of Forte turbo cleaner which I will pour and burn this week end before I move to the next stage (cleaning turbo / vanes).
But to make matter more complicated, one of my series 2a has decided to annoy me as well, and I need to take the rocker shaft out this week and clean everything on the shaft as a rocker lubrication issue just popped up… Land Rover for you hey ?!? |
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16th Sep 2021 7:49am |
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| Rivarama Member Since: 28 Aug 2021 Location: London Posts: 155
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I just plugged my cheap OBDII reader on the ECU and it did come up w a P0299 code: turbo super charger under boost. It looks like it could indeed be due to gummed up vanes. I drove the car for about 1h yesterday in a congested area without any problem, and 15min after I finally got on the motorway and started cruising at 70mph, i lost power again (scary on the m25). The strange thing is that I could rev the engine normally when I was shifting the gear into neutral (still rolling at 50mph speed) but as soon as I would engage a gear again, the revs wouldn’t go past 2000rpm and the car would just slow down. |
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18th Sep 2021 8:34am |
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| Nitroneil Member Since: 05 Mar 2019 Location: Stirling Posts: 130 
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I had identical symptoms on my 110 2.4 double cab. Took garage quite a while to find problem but it turned out to be leaking head gasket. 90S D250 fuji and loving it.
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18th Sep 2021 8:44am |
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| Race.it Member Since: 27 Aug 2019 Location: Algeciras Posts: 741  
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Literally just had the same issue on mine tonight was at 120kph lifted off accelerator and you could tell no power. Sometimes lifting accelerator and re applying resolves the issue.
But not this time, managed to coast to the next exit, cycled the power and engine would rev fine started off again and could tell low power. The following codes were stored for mine P0100 P0404 P02A4 P1103 P0299 Now I cleaned the codes restarted the engine it sounded like it missed fit a couple of seconds then idle was fine. Made the rest of the 60km home in 5th gear at 100kph a d to ensure I could feel it if I lost power, no issues no loss of power on them 60km it’s not predictable at all. Have a vcv valve that I’ll prob try to fit tomorrow and monitor to see if that helps. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing. 5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details |
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18th Sep 2021 10:35pm |
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| Rivarama Member Since: 28 Aug 2021 Location: London Posts: 155
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Sorry to hear that you experienced that issue. Let us know how the VCV replacement turns out (pm me a couple of pics if you don’t mind).
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18th Sep 2021 11:08pm |
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| Rivarama Member Since: 28 Aug 2021 Location: London Posts: 155
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Ok, so I watched a few videos of the Mr Muscle oven cleaner application to clear the carbon gunk.
The problem is that - being an absolute novice on defenders - I have got no clue as to how I work my way around the 2.4 turbo. From the videos, people recommend spraying Mr Muscle from the exhaust pipe side… if I got this right, it would involve removing the 4 bolts highlighted on the picture below? Although the bolts can be accessed from the top, do you have any tips to hold the nut in place on the other side as 3 of them don’t seems accessible (even from underneath) Also, does the heat shield need to be removed? Thank you Last edited by Rivarama on 22nd Oct 2022 6:36am. Edited 1 time in total |
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18th Sep 2021 11:19pm |
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| Kevlar Member Since: 28 Oct 2020 Location: Prague Posts: 78  
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I also had this problem, in my case it was the head gasket.
I would get a RELD head gasket leak test kit as next step and confirm it either way before you fill the turbo with mr muscle. https://www.amazon.co.uk/RELD-Cylinder-Com...NrPXRydWU= |
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19th Sep 2021 6:22am |
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