 | Home > Technical > 300TDi clutch issues |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829  |
I had issued with this not so long ago, and must admit I came across a lot of internet stuff about 300Tdi clutch bleeding issues. There will be a few on here if you look and you might get some inspiration there.
Assuming the clutch internals are all fine, I'm wondering if there's something in the 'geometry' of the pedal and new spring which is causing this? I know that the LOF spring is a great thing (I have one) but a pain to fit. Have you tried taking it off and putting the old one back on? This would at least tell you if the issue was clutch bleeding, or spring? Did you bench bleed the MC before putting it on? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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17th Dec 2020 7:05pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 723  
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I'm a little confused - how are you manually bleeding by pumping the pedal if the pedal is stuck to the floorboards?
Are you sure the spring on the clutch pedal is attached? 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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17th Dec 2020 7:22pm |
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| 300TDi CSW Phil Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Bracknell Posts: 746  
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I must admit that I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder completely forgot
The spring is definitely attached and the pedal springs back with a little force from behind so it's pretty much a case of hand pumping. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper. Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home M0XQS |
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17th Dec 2020 7:33pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
If the pedal springs back with a little nudge, that sounds like the 'spring geometry' I was getting at - that the pedal travel is going beyond the point where the spring can return it unassisted.
Is your pedal box of the era that had an adjustment bolt on the front facing side? That would stop the pedal going so far? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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17th Dec 2020 7:50pm |
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| 300TDi CSW Phil Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Bracknell Posts: 746
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The pedal box does have an adjuster bolt on the front.
Am I correct in thinking that I need to wind it in until the pedal doesn't stay down and the clutch still disengages? 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper. Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home M0XQS |
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17th Dec 2020 8:06pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Actually - I think I'm maybe confusing things here. It's only a couple of months ago, but my memory's shocking. I remember playing with the adjuster, and the nuts which fix the pedal to the master cylinder shaft/plunger.
I think I was of the same opinion as you - that the adjuster would limit the pedal's downward travel - but that on 300 era vehicles it works differently, and sets the height the pedal sits at, with travel being set by the MC shaft nuts. Sorry, I'm reluctant to confuse things any further as I don't have my workshop manual to hand. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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17th Dec 2020 8:25pm |
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| 300TDi CSW Phil Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Bracknell Posts: 746
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No worries about the confusion.
I'm sure I'll get to the bottom of it soon (ish) 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper. Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home M0XQS |
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17th Dec 2020 8:46pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
I've looked back, and in fact it was April I was dealing with this - so I feel a little better.
But I've just been out to the garage to check with a spare pedal box I have - and I had just confused the issue, and myself. The adjustment bolt does limit the pedal travel when pressed. Still haven't got the manual, but I think what you need to do is undo the nuts on the MC plunger; limit the travel until the spring pushes the pedal back up; and then tigten the nuts on the plunger. These will also affect the height the pedal sits at too. I'd try and make sure that I only limit the pedal travel by the minimum needed to allow the spring to work. If you go too far, then there might not be enough travel to operate the clutch. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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17th Dec 2020 8:55pm |
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| 300TDi CSW Phil Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Bracknell Posts: 746
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I have just been out under the bonnet (with a somewhat incompetent assistant on the pedal) but the adjuster on my pedal box adjusts the height of the pedal not the point it stops at when pressed.
I can't see anyway to limit where the pedal stops when pressed unless that is done by the nuts on the MC shaft but this doesn't seem like a good way to do it. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper. Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home M0XQS |
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17th Dec 2020 9:21pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 723
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How easy is it to put the original spring back in? I can't really see what else it would be - I don't think the pedal relies on the pressure of the hydraulic system to return it. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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17th Dec 2020 11:40pm |
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| I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 762 
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Not helpful, but.....
My 300tdi is apparently stock standard ex-environment agency, but all the people in my Landrover/4x4 club that have driven it are shocked by the lightness and feel of my clutch compared to their Landrovers. So much so that they have dubbed it a 'girly clutch'! I don't know why this is because everything appears stock standard. Both master and slave have been replaced with the std items from paddocks during my ownership and the clutch friction and pressure plate were also swapped out due to failure of the shock springs in the friction plate after a near stranding failure. There are no power-boosters or assistance springs that I am aware of. Pedal housing was seriously lubricated due to an annoying squeak, but otherwise everything should be just as it left the LR factory. |
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18th Dec 2020 1:30am |
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| I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 762
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Just to add, neither changing the hydraulic cylinder or the clutch friction components made any difference to the bite or feel of the clutch.
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18th Dec 2020 1:32am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
For many years I ran my car without a return spring. To all intents and purposes it made no difference at all - the hydraulic pressure raised the pedal quite happily. The downside would be, if you tend to sit with your foot on the pedal, that the spring isn't taking that weight. For Phil I do reckon this is just a question of finding the sweet spot of the adjustments between the pedal limit screw, and the nuts on the MC pushrod, to get to a point where the pedal isn't going beyond the spring. I'd also suggest a call to Luke at LOF - I had to do this, and I found him very happy to help out. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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18th Dec 2020 9:47am |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 723
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Well I stand corrected then, thanks for the information donmacn. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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18th Dec 2020 10:14am |
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