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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 739

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Panhard bush?
So I had a slight shimmy on the old 16” rims, thought it was balance, but was going to put some alloys on so lived with it, it was very light. Now I have the 18”s on it’s not a death wobble but it’s more noticiable, done the std change check with old wheels, swaped front to back on the new ones.

Noticed that all the steering rod ball joints the rubber gaters were cracked, so sumo bars ordered.

But I changed the fluids on the drive train yesterday and thought I would re investigate.

I have some movement (that I recorded) on the end of the panhard rod, think RBI100031 is the correct part number, for a direct replacement. Now LR genuine part is over £200 but other places look to sell a blue bag special and a lemforder one, about the same price of €50 ish plus delivery. Anybody had experiences of the non genuine bars? Any to avoid?

Videos of the offending movement. Hoping you guys won’t say that’s normal 😀

https://youtube.com/shorts/nGChhhAx-5k

The up close shot…
 Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #911867 11th Jul 2021 9:04am
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ibexman



Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
Location: kent
Posts: 2871

United Kingdom 
Get a new genuine bush pushed in there
Post #911869 11th Jul 2021 9:09am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 739

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Thanks, I don’t have access to a press at present. So thinking about getting a whole bar so I can keep moving then later on get the existing bar re-done Incase I need a backup. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #911870 11th Jul 2021 9:11am
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 598

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
I have in the past found the panhard bolts badly worn as well as the bush.
Post #911872 11th Jul 2021 9:20am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 739

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Ok new bolts also will be ordered.

When I got the defender the previous owner had use the bolt to secure the steering guard, so the actual bolt maybe is not even genuine. Something more to check. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #911877 11th Jul 2021 9:37am
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markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2507

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
If you go for polybushes, after getting the local garage to press out the originals, you can change them yourself going forwards.

Alternatively for the price a garage may charge to press them out you could just buy a new pan hard rod with the bushes already fitted.

Just a thought. I went polybushes as mines a keeper and I like the ease of doing things myself.
Post #911894 11th Jul 2021 10:52am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 739

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Yep the couple of places I asked they told me they don’t press them out anymore they just replace, for that I would rarther replace myself and later on locate a place with a press that can push out the old ones and I would not be off the road.

Next question who is oem for this lemforder or the special blue bag brigade? Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #911905 11th Jul 2021 12:07pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 739

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
So went to change this bar the other week and the bolt on the drivers side (lhd) has been put in from the rear so I could not just pull it out, hits the axel.

Is that the correct way for that bolt been looking on internet and here for photos and I think bolt goes on from the front. But willing to be corrected.

I guess to get it out I need to jack up body then take pressure off axel by jacking that a little then getting bolt out. (Two jacks, so I’ll have to bottle one)

Is that the correct way for the bolts or is one of mine reversed.

Thanks in advance Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #919306 31st Aug 2021 10:04am
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markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2507

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
Hi, yes, jack the body up a little and you will have the space to pull out the bolt and refit.

You will also find the bolt to the axle when you pull it out from the front will hit the drag link. Again just lift the body that side.

Did the same job myself last week.

Good luck

Make sure you use new nuts and bolts as at 250 nm they may be stretched as they are a fine thread..
Post #919309 31st Aug 2021 10:59am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 739

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
thanks, have new bolts, so one bolt goes in from the back, and one from the front? Asking as from the images I have seen on YouTube, or googling look to be both from the front. (which means mine has one incorrect.

I did start to jack the body, but found out tension on the rod meant I could not actually get the existing bolt out. Will try again with another jack to release some pressure on the bar when lifted. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #919350 31st Aug 2021 3:30pm
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markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2507

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
You might find that the tension on the bolt is horizontal and not vertical.

What I mean by that is the relationship between the body and axle. Perhaps ask a friend to give the body a push (either side, whichever works).

For example when I fitted an adjustable pan hard rod last week, I had to extend it by 8mm. Being on my own in my garage I had to use a block of wood against the wall, bottle jack in a horizontal position then used it to push against the front bumper to move the chassis until the holes lined up and the bolt just went in without any effort.

On a lift the axle has more side to side movement which is impossible on your own working on the ground.

I have also seen a YouTube vid where someone used a ratchet strap between axle and opposite chassis frame. The second pair of hands is quicker if you have a friend free to help.

Don’t try to whack it in with a hammer as you may damage the threads.

Good luck.
Post #919357 31st Aug 2021 4:12pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 739

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Thanks, before I lifted the vehicle it could be moved easilly you could see it binding when it was being moved up/down.

But I’ll have fun 😂👍🏻 Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #919358 31st Aug 2021 4:18pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 739

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White

Click image to enlarge




This is where my confusion starts should I put both bolts going the same way or how it is at present t with both opposite directions. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #919359 31st Aug 2021 4:23pm
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markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2507

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
Both opposite

Axle side the bolt goes in from the front, it won’t go in the other way, there is no space.

The chassis end, the bolt goes in from the back. So when looking straight at it you will see the nut.

Thumbs Up

Again, you will need to lift the body slightly to get the bolt in. I put the bottle jack under my sump guard so I could see what I was doing without having to move.

Do the axle end first as the other side is easier to see what you are doing when trying to line the holes up..
Post #919366 31st Aug 2021 5:09pm
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