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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6035

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Prop UJ's
Just about to place an order with Island4x4 for some service items I need.

One is a new UJ for my rear prop. they have 3 options...

1) Britpart £6.99
2) GKN/OEM £17.99
3) Hardy Spicer £13.99

I'm guessing the Britpart is a no no (unkess anyone can suggest their UJ's are good?) but is it worth plumping up an extra £4 for a GKN over a Hardy Spicer?
Post #901148 3rd May 2021 10:47am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3196

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
I just installed one of these:
https://www.paddockspares.com/tvc100010gkn...r-gkn.html

It came in a GKN box and was a perfect fit. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #901153 3rd May 2021 11:31am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
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Posts: 6035

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Haha GKN & Hardy together. Thumbs Up
Post #901154 3rd May 2021 11:32am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2547

Scotland 
The key thing to ensure is that they have the larger journal bearings and metal seal retainers, these ones are the same as original LR spec.

The cheaper (still OEM) ones fit the car but are far less durable. And obviously the real cheapo aftermarket ones are not even worth considering.
Post #901159 3rd May 2021 12:08pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1752

United Kingdom 
It’s interesting to note that Hardy spicer have been part of the GKN group since 1966, so by now I wonder if it’s just different packaging or are they actually different specs, the GKN being the higher spec for a higher price.
Post #901167 3rd May 2021 12:46pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6035

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I ordered the Hardy one, so I'll see what it looks like when it arrives.
Post #901168 3rd May 2021 12:48pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3997

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Retroanaconda wrote:
The key thing to ensure is that they have the larger journal bearings and metal seal retainers, these ones are the same as original LR spec.

The cheaper (still OEM) ones fit the car but are far less durable. And obviously the real cheapo aftermarket ones are not even worth considering.


This is is an important point. How do you know when ordering what’s going to turn up? If you order GKN from most LR parts people, the distributor is Britpart and they deliberately cover the GKN part no. so you can’t cross reference. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #901171 3rd May 2021 1:18pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19551

United Kingdom 
I went for GKN on mine, both times came in GKN boxes, one pair had a different cir-clip style that the other but bearing cups, seals and bearings were all the same. Never had a problem since, been really happy.

I used Tipexx to reference mark the flanges so that everything went back exactly as it should and I put a zip tie on the end near the T box on each prop and that flange so it’s easy to remember which way around.

I did the rear first, and ran in 2wd on the front for a few days with the rear prop removed.
Then done the same with the front.

With the diff locked you can do this fine, obviously of careful and take it easy driving about.
With the rear prop off you must ensure the handbrake drum is secured with the nuts.
On mine I needed a few washers as well before the nut.

On mine I had two grease nipples missing, one front and one rear on each prop...
No wonder the rear most failed on me after coming home from going through a Ford.
The bearing cups filled up with water due to the missing nipple.
Something not unusual I believe for the, to disappear..

I wouldn’t pull out the slider either, you can check for play on that without pulling it out.
I left that well alone.

It certainly was a tougher job than I expected, even getting the circlips out was a battle in its self.
The installation is the easy part, it’s the removal which is the tougher part.

Thumbs Up Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #901206 3rd May 2021 5:12pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3196

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
custom90steve wrote:
...even getting the circlips out was a battle in its self.

Next time try tapping the bearing cups inwards... especially if there is wear, it would give the circlips freedom to be compressed and pulled out.

I like to run a small wire brush wheel to clean up the circlip grooves.

The circlips normally have an 'orientation'. Since they are punched parts, they would have a rounded edge and a sharp edge. Place the sharp edge facing away from the bearing cup, so that it 'bites' in the groove.

While taking the cross out, it is almost certain that an edge of the jokes are damaged by the cross. I like to clean up any edge that is deformed when pushing the cross so that the new cup/seal is a perfect fit.

As a rule of thumb, the sliding joint on the prop shaft is nearer to the the tcase if you forget to mark it. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #901253 3rd May 2021 9:07pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19551

United Kingdom 
Yes, that’s right and was what I did do, it was still much the same though. It was the paint I think that was causing the issue and of course they had been in situ for a long time.
Once I had carefully tapped around the circlips to free them of the paint, from the groove that did the trick.

And yes, you’re right regarding the circlips. One side has a sharp edge the other side is bevelled.

Another issue I had was I had a small pair of circlip pliers, they were not man enough for the job.
So in the end I had to get a more HD type (US Pro) and those did the trick.

If you’ve got every tool that you’ll need, the right size vice and sockets etc it’s not too bad of a job.
In my case I needed a few bits and pieces as I went. Very Happy Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #901262 3rd May 2021 10:09pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

pays to check that greasing ports clear before fitting UJ , replaced UJ only to have it fail 6 mouths later du dry needle bearing

that the grease did not reach removed UJ to find that holes in UJ block so no greases reach bearing


Post #901265 3rd May 2021 10:37pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2547

Scotland 
These are the good type (check it fits your vehicle), I always buy them from these folk as they are honest about what you are getting:

https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/axle-...m-j-75x27/

They also do the standard type, note the smaller journals and lack of seal caps:

https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/axle-...5x27-16mm/
Post #901270 4th May 2021 7:15am
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Pacha



Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 771

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
^^^^^^^

Worth bearing in mind that post 7A VIN numbers have a bigger bearing than those currently being discussed. Rgds.

Chris
Post #901275 4th May 2021 8:22am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2078

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey
Retroanaconda wrote:
These are the good type (check it fits your vehicle), I always buy them from these folk as they are honest about what you are getting:

https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/axle-...m-j-75x27/

They also do the standard type, note the smaller journals and lack of seal caps:

https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/axle-...5x27-16mm/


Thanks James, good info Bow down
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.
Post #901324 4th May 2021 2:01pm
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