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BaronDefenders



Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: London/Cotswolds
Posts: 803

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Santorini Black
Fuel Starvation
Hello chaps!

I drained the tank on my 80” this morning to replace the copper washer on the drain plug, as it was leaking. I then took it down to the local pub. It cut out twice on inclines. On the way home it cut out on inclines, lost power on the flat, and totally cut out once on the flat. I got it going again when it stopped on the flat by giving the fuel line to the pump a shake, as there was clearly some air in the line.

FYI, it’s a later 2.0L with SU carb in a 1949 80”. It needs the choke to start and keep running, otherwise it dies off. It’ll give some pops off when on the overrun down hill.

Can I assume correctly it’s just air in the lines from draining the tank, or do I need to look to replacing the fuel pump/looking for an obstruction?

Cheers! Charlie

1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD)
2002 Td5 90 (SOLD)
2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD)

1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored)
1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE)
2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK)
2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build)

Instagram: @BaronDefenders
Post #898820 17th Apr 2021 11:26pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Check fuel filters, make shore fuel lines are not block

Check float needle valve working ok

mechanical fuel lift pump may have brass gores filter in side (ok elect fuel Pump )

mechanical fuel lift pump Question if so you can get overall kits (ok elect fuel Pump)

also make shore lift pipe in the fuel tank not blocked or foot filter at the end of this pipe


http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-carburetters


Last edited by dorsetsmith on 18th Apr 2021 10:20am. Edited 2 times in total
Post #898830 18th Apr 2021 6:54am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16810

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
What does the fuel pump do when you switch on the ignition? It should click rapidly a few times as it primes them stop, or at least only click once every few seconds once primed.
Post #898846 18th Apr 2021 9:13am
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BaronDefenders



Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: London/Cotswolds
Posts: 803

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Santorini Black
It does indeed click. I haven’t been out to check today.

I’ve never left it long enough to see if it stops clicking, I feel like it might just keep clicking . . . Charlie

1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD)
2002 Td5 90 (SOLD)
2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD)

1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored)
1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE)
2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK)
2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build)

Instagram: @BaronDefenders
Post #898849 18th Apr 2021 9:39am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16810

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If it continues to click fairly rapidly then either it is drawing air, or the diaphragm in the pump is leaking, or one of the non-return valves in the pump is stuck open, but whatever the reason it is not filling the float chamber with fuel.

The SU electric pumps work well when in good order but are fairly notorious for trouble and always have been. Quality pre-war cars, such as the Derby Bentleys, used double pumps to reduce the likelihood of complete failure, however Land-Rovers did not. Most commonly however they simply stop pumping due becoming gunged up or due to points failure.

You might want to consider either replacing the pump or overhauling it, especially if the vehicle has not been used much recently.
Post #898869 18th Apr 2021 1:45pm
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BaronDefenders



Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: London/Cotswolds
Posts: 803

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Santorini Black
OK. Gives me something to thoroughly investigate on Saturday!

I guess it’s either going to be an obstruction in the pick-up or lines and/or it’s the pump on its way out. I’m feeling like it’ll be the pump though.

I think I’ll just replace the pump if that’s the culprit. It’s a bit scruffy and new ones aren’t too expensive. Charlie

1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD)
2002 Td5 90 (SOLD)
2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD)

1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored)
1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE)
2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK)
2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build)

Instagram: @BaronDefenders
Post #898907 18th Apr 2021 8:11pm
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BaronDefenders



Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: London/Cotswolds
Posts: 803

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Santorini Black
Fault finding done today.

Turned on the ignition - no ticking from the pump. Gave the fuel line a bit of a shake and the pump started ticking and wouldn’t stop until I gave the float a good tap.

Seems like the pump and float are the issues.

Sediment bowl was clear. Charlie

1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD)
2002 Td5 90 (SOLD)
2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD)

1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored)
1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE)
2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK)
2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build)

Instagram: @BaronDefenders
Post #899833 24th Apr 2021 12:29pm
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