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TamarBlue11



Member Since: 25 Sep 2020
Location: England
Posts: 74

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tamar Blue
Best way to fix these corrosion holes

Hi Guys

Its only a minor issue but just after some advice on the best way to fix these holes without replacing the whole panel. Some sort of filler?


Click image to enlarge


Cheers

Post #896148 6th Apr 2021 10:24am
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lord-haggis



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 213

United Kingdom 

(This is in no way advice as im a Scottish farmer who is prone to a good in his view bodge) I've plugged stuff like that with lumi weld or chemical metal plenty of times without a single regret. Then again I also paint most of the spots on mine with a brush... Belize Green TD5 110 Double Cab aka Le Farm Truck

Post #896169 6th Apr 2021 11:59am
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2015

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue

I had strange holes like that in the same place. Behind was a white gungy liquid, no idea what caused it. Was lucky enough that it was under warranty though so had the whole panel replaced. Instagram @richmond_custom

Post #896268 6th Apr 2021 6:35pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 1938

Scotland 

It’s dissimilar metal corrosion, due to the steel strip behind it.

To fix it you’ll need to replace the part, which involves dismantling some of the tub panels and drilling out spot welds etc.

You can fill them but it’ll keep getting worse until eventually the aluminium is all gone around the mountings.

Post #896292 6th Apr 2021 7:38pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 703

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

Indeed, it is galvanic corrosion. The good news is that the tub is protecting the chassis by sacrificing itself.
Not what you want to hear... but before repairing the holes, better try to isolate the steel from the aluminum.

I have been pondering how to remove that bracket, a long angle iron, to get it galvanized as well, without removing the whole body. Have not attempted yet though. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

Post #896297 6th Apr 2021 7:51pm
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Beero



Member Since: 05 Jan 2021
Location: Southampton
Posts: 17

England 

Mine is like that as well. Does anyone know what the part is called and how difficult it is to replace?

Post #896333 6th Apr 2021 10:22pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 703

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-body-moun...series-23/

Once pulled out one out from a damaged tub. Was not easy. Lot of spot welds and IIRC a couple of rivets which are hard to reach. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

Post #896346 6th Apr 2021 11:44pm
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TamarBlue11



Member Since: 25 Sep 2020
Location: England
Posts: 74

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tamar Blue

Thanks guys, some food for throught.

Post #896378 7th Apr 2021 8:36am
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 366

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green

The aftermarket versions of the tub mounting rail KVU101160 only have five tabs sticking up to mount the tub to instead of the full length original rail, this prevents the majority of the rot as the steel is not there to react with the alloy in the first place.

On a 90 hardtop they can be changed in situ by unbolting the rear tub mounts, and unbolting the rear tub forward seatbelt mounts and outrigger bolts, opening the front doors and jacking the rear body up.

Post #896738 8th Apr 2021 7:11pm
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