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| Muddybigdog Member Since: 11 Apr 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 991   
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Alternative solutions are wired gambions https://www.wirefence.co.uk/gabion/, Jumped ship to reliability - Mitsubishi L200
Puma 90 XS - Sold D3 - 2.7 S x2 (both Sold) Freelander 2 HSE - Sold Freelander 1 - Sold Disco 2 - Sold |
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6th Apr 2021 9:47pm |
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| boxoftricks Member Since: 06 Feb 2019 Location: Home Counties Posts: 745 
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I used the new oak sleepers to build a retaining wall and also edge our drive. 13 years later they are full of rot and have fallen apart. I can't recall if they were treated with anything.
The ones in the wall quite quickly bent and twisted as they dried out creating gaps. I used the long decking hex heads to join them but in hindsight not strong enough to stop the wood from moving. Next time I'd drill holes all the way through them and use vertical threaded bar to securely bolt together. The ones edging the drive I laid on a bed of concrete. I put a load of big nails into the bottom of the sleepers so when in place the nails went into the concrete. This held them nicely in place. Hope that helps. |
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7th Apr 2021 8:31am |
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| alwoodley72 Member Since: 14 Mar 2010 Location: salisbury, wilts Posts: 716  
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I have my own landscaping business, we install a lot of sleeper walls as they are cheaper, much more eco friendly and ‘softer’ than a lot if walks.
A couple of top tips, don’t get the oak sleepers, they are rapidly grown European oak in general, they do not last, often rotting before new treated sleepers. Use the larger size (2400/250/125 size) as there is a lot more meat to them. Tanalised will last if drained adequately, NEVER line with non breathable plastic ( bags, bin liners, dpm..) use a breathable membrane, weed suppressant/ roof membrane. Drainage drainage drainage, we always backfill with a 10mm shingle behind the sleepers, almost to ground level, use a perforated pipe for any likely standing/trapped water behind. We rarely install them horizontally, cut and affixed to a timber frame they look rather lovely, plus you can curve the run... HTH!.. Cheers Alex  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 98 300 tdi 90 project 94 Range Rover vogue 4.2 lse 79 911 sc 08 130 double cab utility |
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7th Apr 2021 1:51pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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About twelve years ago, I roped in three or four friends to help me build a sleeper retaining wall in my garden. It was quite a complicated affair involving steps, terraced beds and a large section of nearly 2m high wall, raked back at something like 13 degrees (I did the calcs at the time). I used continental reclaimed sleepers that were about 10 x 6 in section and they were 'kin heavy! 100 of them in total and I used a chainsaw to cut them to length and shape, where necessary. It was a satisfying job but never again! Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia Last edited by LandRoverAnorak on 10th Apr 2021 7:10am. Edited 1 time in total |
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7th Apr 2021 3:24pm |
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| Tomotomo Member Since: 13 Feb 2018 Location: Bucks Posts: 71
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I think it all depends on how long your intend to live in your current home.
As others have said both the treated softwood and the new oak sleepers will be nearing the end of their life at the ten year point. They are speedy and cheap to construct things with but the trade off is life span. The genuine reclaimed railway sleepers are so full of tar and creosote they last for donkeys years. But in the sun they ooze sticky tar and are a nightmare to cut . If your staying there for less than 5 years and doing a quick tidy up in the garden - sure. If your there for the foreseeable I would spend more on properly constructed brick/ block work. I am a stone Mason/ builder/landscaper by trade. |
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9th Apr 2021 10:58pm |
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