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jnglmstr



Member Since: 03 Aug 2015
Location: Dorking - Surrey
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Coniston Green
300 tdi bottom middle exhaust nut unreachable
Hi all, running out of options on this one: recently removed the turbo in order to fit a refurbished one (the old one was well past its best by date). I was able to pull the old one off using 1/2 sockets on all 7 nuts, but fitting the refurbed one is a different story... I can't properly reach the bottom stud which sits between the two turbines. I managed to get a nut on with my fingers and get it finger tight by reaching from the right hand side (don't ask me how and don't ask how it felt), but none of my sockets fit the new nut from the front. Tried 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inch. It is not so much the stem of the sockets which touches the turbo oil inlet area, it seems like part of the manifold prevents me from getting the socket on the nut, as if the manifold is in the way. Tried to put a socket on without the stem, it just won't fit
It seems my sockets are too high quality (walls to thick)

Can anyone give me a tip on how to get the b...ard on please? I'm contemplating sacrificing a 15mm socket to the angle grinder in order to reduce its diameter. But if that won't work I'm out of options.

Many thanks,
Ron
Post #894512 28th Mar 2021 4:45pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3208

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
It is not sacrificing, but making your tools better for the application.
But I do not grind a socket, or a spanner that is part of a set... I just buy a spare one, and modify the new one.

As for your specific problem, perhaps another option is to replace the stud and nut configuration with a socket head screw. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #894547 28th Mar 2021 7:25pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1186

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
What kind of nut are you using. I thought flanged nuts were the norm on the turbo manifold and they have a smaller hex head plus will sit on a set of extensions from underneath. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #894568 28th Mar 2021 8:39pm
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jnglmstr



Member Since: 03 Aug 2015
Location: Dorking - Surrey
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Coniston Green
They are all the same: TE110071L Stud, Engine Code 11L 2.5 TDi Diesel Turbo Manual, M10 x 35 (https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/300tdi/manifolds_53189).

Drove me crazy. Looked with a mirror and the bloody stud was hidden behind the cast iron manifold. No way ANY socket was going to reach that. Why Land Rover, WHY??

So scraped some more flesh from my knuckle and did it up as good as I could with a 15mm spanner from the left hand side, using the mirror as a guide. I hope this turbo will outlast me as I do not look forward replacing it ever again. Did a test run: no exhaust leaks (for now) so good to go.

R.
Post #894650 29th Mar 2021 11:45am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1186

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Ah sorry I misunderstood which ones you're on about.

There's a gap through behind the turbo and under the manifold if I remember correctly (well I am remembering correctly for the one I'm thinking of). I can quite comfortably get a big 1/2" socket and extension bar down that hole and then put a wrench on the other end. Quite simple once you find the hole I'm talking about.

Easier to start the nut by hand though than try to insert it on the end of the extension. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #894661 29th Mar 2021 12:35pm
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