 | Home > My Defender > Defender Td5 90. From Russia with love! |
 
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84   
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#Into the comfort zone. Pseudo vibration noise insulation of the hood.
Hello, friends! Having marveled at the absence of at least some standard heat-noise-insulation of the hood cover, I decided to make it from commercially available materials. The authors of advertising posts on the Internet claim that after vibration-noise isolation of the hood, a car, even a diesel one, with closed eyes can be confused with a Prius or a Tesla, and vibrations in it will disappear as a class. Naturally, I did not believe them, but I still counted on, at least a scanty reduction in engine noise from the outside (so as not to notify the whole area in the evening about my arrival at home), as well as some assistance in warming up the diesel engine in winter. I used the material of the Russian company Shumoff. https://www.instagram.com/shumoff_official/  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge As a result, it turned out nice, but useless — I didn't feel any effect)) On the same day, I changed the opposite part of the driver's door lock to a new Britpart. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge If anyone is interested, here are two good videos about the Defender's sound insulation, shot by the Russian owner of Defender (in Russian): "The right sound insulation for an SUV" "Noise insulation like Putin's" 
Well, a photo from the forest: Click image to enlarge Stay tuned![/code] “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.” — Erich Maria Remarque |
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29th Dec 2021 12:45pm |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84
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#Repair. Restoration of fastenings of door card pistons.
Hello, friends! Winter is coming inexorably, but still sometimes it is possible to catch a weekend without rain to work out with Def. Last weekend I finally started repairing the door cards, in order to fix the pistons, some of the fasteners of which were broken off. For the idea, thank you to the respected British master: And so, the following picture was on the cards: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge To attach the pistons to the card, an uncomplicated design is used — yellow inserts are soldered into the card panel, which have the shape of a fungus. Pistons are put on these fungi. Over time, the fungi break off. The repair is ridiculously simple — first we grind off the appendages of fungi (and in my case there was also an epoxy applied by the previous owner to repair pistons), screw in a short screw, put a pistol on it. That's it. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Self-tapping screws used such: Click image to enlarge Fortunately, they are so short that they did not hole the map, even in the thinnest places — at the bottom. However, the screws should still be used with a smaller cap, because these pistons sit very tightly, which eliminates the possibility of shifting the card along the plane of the door. Pistons and matching bushings: Click image to enlarge Next, I repaired the driver's card at the attachment point of the lower outer pistol — there was a piece missing. Drilled a hole and inserted a wire reinforcement Click image to enlarge I made the formwork out of aluminum tape: Click image to enlarge With the help of Cosmofen glue and soda, he created the foundation: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Then ground it with a dremel: Click image to enlarge Then I painted it. Everything. It holds iron. I pasted a sound insulation material on the card: Click image to enlarge Even in the summer, during the rain, I noticed that the water that gets into the inner cavity of the door gets on the floor due to the lack of a protective screen (film on the inner surface of the door). Considering that anti-corrosion treatment is coming, and large-scale work on the introduction of speakers in the door will not be carried out until next summer, I decided to glue the film on a butyl rubber cord, as they do at the factory. I ordered a BMW cord with a diameter of 7 mm: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Glued the film: Click image to enlarge After installing the card, it turned out that the pistons hold the card disgusting! Perhaps this is because they are manufactured by Britpart, and even the noise insulation material prevents the card from snugly fitting without pressure:
Click image to enlarge The pistons are also almost not held at the bottom. Will think… UPD: People advised to use pistons with Aliexpress: https://aliexpress.ru/item/32247861366.htm..._content=3 By the way, large holes in the place of contact of the glass frame with the glass sealer, on the advice of the same British friend, I sealed with protective mastic in the summer — there was a lot less water in the doors) It was: Click image to enlarge Become: Click image to enlarge Stay tuned! “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.” — Erich Maria Remarque |
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29th Dec 2021 1:11pm |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84
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#Into the comfort zone. Mirrors from G-class w463. Part 1 (installation).
Hello, friends! I've been planning to write this post for a long time, but it didn't work out because of the protracted process of connecting the mirrors' electrical equipment. At the moment, it is still not fully connected. So, the idea to put mirrors from w463 matured even before I had the car, because over the past decade and a half, I have become accustomed to mirrors with electric controls and heating. And taking into account the fact that when driving I used to navigate only by mirrors, this option is an urgent necessity for me. So, according to the information gleaned on the Internet, the introduction of such mirrors is a fairly common option for tuning Defenders all over the world — they are put by both Startech and Arkonik and ordinary owners. Click image to enlarge I bought a used mirror for 7,000 rubles (about 82 euros). When the car was already in the caring hands of tinsmiths and painters, on the forum one good person pointed out to me a detail that I had not attached importance to before — the mirror on the Defender door must be fixed through a tricky spacer, otherwise the mirror will be tilted (the G-class door is not vertical) and will not be sufficiently removed from the glass. Click image to enlarge Attempts to find these spacers on sale were unsuccessful and I decided to resort to 3d printing. I found a person who prints. He was making a model and a test sample. After the adjustment, I have already printed two parts for installation on the car. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge A file with a model for printing to everyone. The download link is - https://disk.yandex.ru/d/CrnGPDBWfCNtsg For painting, it was necessary to completely disassemble the mirrors, but I could not find normal instructions on how to do it on the Internet. In the end, everything turned out to be quite simple. Click image to enlarge Initially, the screw located on the mirror stand is unscrewed, which holds the hub of the mirror axis on the base of the mirror: Click image to enlarge In theory, this sleeve, which is held by a screw in the landing place of the rack, should be pulled out of the base, but in my case it stuck tightly and I could not take it out. Therefore, with the key on 17, we unscrew the nut that holds the spring of the mirror axis on the base: Click image to enlarge and we remove the axis of the mirror body from the base. Next, the mirror element is pulled up with a wide blade and carefully removed. It is attached to the adjustment mechanism with plastic petals, which must not be broken. In my case, the mirror element was removed easily, but it happens that the petals become stiff with age and lose all elasticity. In this case, knowledgeable people are advised to hold the mirror under hot water or otherwise warm it) Click image to enlarge The connectors that are located on the mirror element are disconnected. There may be one or two of them. Or maybe not at all - it depends on the configuration. Click image to enlarge The four screws of the adjustment mechanism are unscrewed: Click image to enlarge Unscrew the three screws securing the metal base plate and take it out. Click image to enlarge It can be removed quite tightly. Disconnect the connector from the turn signal housing, unscrew the two screws securing the turn signal housing, remove the external illumination lamp, carefully bending the petals of the external illumination lamp housing, remove it. Click image to enlarge Now we have a bare metal mirror base, a plastic housing, an inner metal base plate and a printed spacer. We sandblast the metal parts and then paint everything together. Click image to enlarge The assembly is performed in reverse order. To attach the bases of the mirrors to the door, you need to drill five holes — four for studs and one for wires. Something like this:
This is how the mount looks inside the G-class door: View from inside my doors: Click image to enlarge Outside view: Click image to enlarge Before installing the mirrors, I was afraid that the mirrors would vibrate in motion, but in vain — they hold very firmly! So, the mirrors are painted and installed on the car. Click image to enlarge Stay tuned! “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.” — Erich Maria Remarque |
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29th Dec 2021 1:48pm |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84
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#Into the comfort zone. Mirrors from G-class w463. Part 2 (connection).
Hello, friends! In this post I will tell you about what, in fact, everything was started for, namely the process of connecting the adjustment of mirrors, heating and turn signals. I must say right away, I'm an amateur in electrics, so I had to think on the go. Something turned out, something is not quite yet) So, the wiring of the mirror looks like this: Click image to enlarge Given the significant number of wires with a variety of colors, I recommend first of all to be puzzled by the acquisition of wires of sufficient length with a coloring corresponding to the above scheme. Wires can be taken with a cross section of 0.35 A for heating 0.5. Unlike store wires, these have thin insulation, which will greatly help when dragging the beam through the corrugation of the door. Click image to enlarge It would not be superfluous to order good sealed connectors. I ordered from Aliexpress. Click image to enlarge But the idea of ordering such wires and normal compact connectors came to me after I stretched almost the entire line to the battery box, so I used wires from the store with thick insulation of uncomplicated colors and large connectors. The adjustment joystick can be taken from Discovery 2 or 3, as far as I understand they have the same internal layout. Click image to enlarge I didn't find a connector for the joystick, so I used 3 mm terminals of the “woman” type. You also need a pad and a relay for heating, as well as two holders for fuses (for adjusting mirrors and for heating). Plastic corrugation, duct tape and plastic clamps are also useful. You will also need a relay for the LED turn indicators. So, adjusting the mirrors. Here is a diagram of the adjustment of the Discovery 3 mirrors: This is a diagram of G-class mirrors (it was given to me on this forum): Click image to enlarge The position of the mirror elements is controlled by three wires coming from the mirror — gray, white and black. At the joystick, respectively, pin # 3 is common to both mirrors, the other pins are connected like according to the scheme. Meanwhile, apparently, it is necessary to connect somehow differently, because after connecting, only the adjustment of the driver's mirror to the right and left works correctly for me, the rest of the adjustments work the other way around) Some confusion is also caused by the fact that in the passenger's mirror, the mechanism stands, apparently from the right mirror, and it stands in the only possible way — upside down) How to connect all this so that everything works as it should, I have not yet come up with))) Nevertheless, the adjustment is quite possible to use, which I do regularly. The difficulty I encountered when pulling wires from the door to the seatpost is that the cavity into which the wires passing through the rubber corrugation of the door exit has only two exits - from above (the wires of the central lock and the end switch of the cabin light come out there) and from below (apparently drainage). I couldn't get close to the upper hole, because the wing interferes, so I took out a bundle of wires through the lower hole under the bottom of the car. A thick bundle of wires is difficult to pull through the rubber corrugations of the doors, but vaseline or silicone grease greatly simplify the matter. Below are a few photos of working with wires in the door: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Along the way, I went over and lubricated the window lifter guides. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge And pasted vibration and noise insulation materials. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I put the wires from both doors into the seat box. I brought the wires from the adjustment of the mirrors to the armrest and connected them to the joystick. Also, I brought + from ACC to the joystick through the fuse and "-". The joystick, in view of the lack of sufficient time while lying in the armrest, in the future I will drill a hole and fix it on the front (inclined) part of the armrest so that it is at hand. I powered the turn signals in the mirrors from the rear turn signals by laying wires from them in the corrugation under the bottom. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge For the normal operation of LED turn signals, it is necessary to change the turn signal relay to a special one designed to work with LED lamps. This relay is located in the Def behind the dashboard in a row of three relays that stand vertically. They can be arranged in different order, but it is very simple to determine which of them is responsible for the turn signals — turn on the turn signals and see which of the relays will click. Original relay with 4 contacts. I bought (as it turned out) with 3. But despite this, everything works) Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The heating was connected according to the following scheme: Click image to enlarge The control "+" comes from the rear window heating button on the relay. I have assembled such a design: Click image to enlarge Note: There is a blue “-” wire in the diagram that goes from the relay to the connector on the right mirror. It turned out this way because I only thought of connecting the “-” that goes from the mirrors to the door panel on the left door. “-” from the mirror on the right door, I dragged along with all the wires into the seat box. I put a 7.5 A fuse on the heating, as described in this diagram. Although there is a 30 A fuse on the Disco 2 circuit, I did not understand which fuse is on the G-class circuit… So I will be grateful for a reasonable criticism in this part) A time relay can be used as a heating relay. It will turn off after 15 minutes of operation. External illumination of mirrors (illumination of the space under the mirror) I haven't connected it yet — I didn't have time, but I will do this in the future. Please do not kick for the organization of wiring in the door — this is a temporary scheme. Next summer I will change the wires and connectors to normal ones. Corner of Lisbon in Moscow: Click image to enlarge Stay tuned! “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.” — Erich Maria Remarque |
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29th Dec 2021 2:27pm |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84
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#Into the comfort zone. Binar 5s: installation and connection to the heater fan.
Hello, friends! Having read the information on the web that diesel Defenders are slowly warming up and the traffic jams are cooling down altogether, I decided to put a pre-heater. Taking into account the reviews on Binar pre-heaters (Russian production) and the price difference with Webasto, my choice leaned in favor of the first. I bought the Binar 5s preheater complete with a remote control and a modem. I took a silencer separately. After reading the official manual for installing Webasto in Def with Td5, I purchased a MEAT&DORIA 9042 check valve for embedding it near the expansion tank in order to avoid system jamming. The most common preheater installation scheme is as follows: Click image to enlarge That is, the antifreeze from the block goes to the heater, then to the stove, then to the block and then around the circle. The disadvantage of this scheme is that when the heater does not work, it acts as a heat exchanger, cooling the antifreeze, i.e. when the car is moving, the antifreeze heated by the engine goes through the hose to the heater (especially if the heater is installed somewhere under the bumper), then again along the highway to the stove. Thus, the antifreeze reaches the stove already cooled, which negatively affects the climate in the cabin. To reduce such a negative effect, a non-return valve can be built into the system, which passes antifreeze through itself when the heater is not working:
Such a valve is in the Webasto spare parts line and costs about 2500 rubles. (30 euros) A similar valve from a Russian truck costs 300 rubles. (4 euros).
Click image to enlarge Considering that foreign comrades advise (https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/webasto-engine-pre-heater-install-defender-110-td5-lhd.181066/) putting such a valve in the system, I also stocked up on it. Given the lack of time and space for a long tinkering with the car. to install all the specified goods, I turned to the service. At the same time, I asked to adjust the headlights, identify the cause of knocks in the transmission when changing gears and find out why the rear axle is shifted 2 cm to the right) Click image to enlarge During the installation process, a question arose regarding the installation location of the heater. The installation on the right in the direction of movement was complicated by the fact that it was necessary to move the washer tank somewhere, which was standing in this place. Click image to enlarge I fell into a kind of stupor, because I could not figure out what kind of outlandish tank was installed in my car — there was no such tank in any of the photos of the Def with the Td5 engine. The issue of transferring the tank hung in the air. Later I realized that the tank is still not completely unoriginal — it is from the Def, but from an older one. On Defa with Td5 and further, the washer tanks were placed under the left wing. Click image to enlarge A few days later, I received the car after the work was done. Upon receipt, it turned out that the check valve was installed in the wrong place, but in the fuel supply system to the heater. Well, anyway, I'll put it in the right place myself later. Also, some confusion was caused by the place chosen for the installation of the transferred tank - near the rear edge of the hood, right in the middle. I can hardly reach this place even with empty hands, not to mention pouring a washing machine from a large bottle, and even in the winter mud of the capital. In a good way, a master receptionist should have thought about such a situation, who should have told me that either you need to buy and install the original tank and install it or enlist my consent to mount the tank in such an absurd place. Oh well. As it turned out, to control the Binar via the phone, before installing the SIM card into the modem, you need to erase all phone numbers from it and enter only the phone of the main operator. Considering that the SIM card was issued to the master with the contents with which it was purchased, it was necessary to remove the air conditioner panel (behind which the modem was hidden), get the SIM card and perform the necessary manipulations with it. After a couple of days, I found that often during the operation of the heater, gurgling began to be heard, and the heater gave an error (heating too fast). All this pointed to the system being strangled. I bought a hose with an inner diameter of 8 mm and two clamps, installed a check valve at the expansion tank - it did not help, the problem did not disappear. Click image to enlarge Thus, the reason was either in the valve itself from the truck, or that it was not installed vertically (perhaps with a horizontal installation it simply did not work as it should), or that the inlet hose to the pump was arched and located even above the hoses of the stove: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge In general, considering that the heater in the Def is installed right next to the stove, as a result of which the extra loop in the path of the heated antifreeze from the block has a very small size, I decided to amputate the check valve. I let the hose from the Binar go straight to the left entrance to the stove, fortunately there is a distance of only 25 cm: Click image to enlarge and the inlet hose was connected to the regular one using plumbing elements - a corner and two fittings. There was no normal connecting corner in the nearby shops: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge It turned out very well. The corner, on occasion, will be replaced with a normal one: Click image to enlarge When contacting the service to install the heater, for some reason I decided that the installation also implies connecting it to the heater fan so that the latter turns on when warming up when a certain temperature is reached. Upon receiving the car, it turned out that this requires additional money and time. Well, okay, I'll connect it myself. There is nothing complicated about connecting. The manufacturer offers a kit for connecting the Binar to the heater for 2500 rubles. (30 euros). It consists of a relay, a pad and several wires. Click image to enlarge This is how the connection diagram of the Binar to the heater looks like. The bottom line is that a relay crashes into the gap of the "+" wire going to the heater: Click image to enlarge Since there is no climate control in the Def, but an ordinary stove with three modes, you will need only 2 wires with a 2.5 mm cross section (preferably black and black-and-white, so that it is like in the Binar diagram), a relay block and the five-pin relay itself. The scheme of the heater Defender: Click image to enlarge Pinout of a five-pin relay: Click image to enlarge Connection diagram: Click image to enlarge The purple-green wire must be cut and the wires from the relay must be connected to the gap. The most convenient place for tapping is under the hood, right next to the stove body: Click image to enlarge The wires (2 pieces of 2.5 m each) in the corrugation go down and enter the seat space under the passenger, where the wires and fuses related to the Binar are located. Among these wires, we find wires with a Relay label and connect them to the relay according to the above scheme. Click image to enlarge The essence of the system is as follows - the wires running to the fan and from the standard fuse (power from which comes only when the ignition is turned on) are connected to the permanently closed contacts of relays 30 and 87a(8  . The supply wire "+" from the Binar is connected to pin 87 of the relay. Thus, when the Binar gives the command, the black and brown wires connected to contacts 86 and 85 close contacts 87 and 30, as a result of which power is supplied to the fan and it turns on and fills the interior with heat from the heated antifreeze) It's simple!
In addition. This is how the Binar pump is installed: Click image to enlarge That 's how the exhaust is output: Click image to enlarge After all the above manipulations, everything works as it should — the heater warms, the fan turns on. As winter operation has shown (so far only up to -25 C), a pre-heater with the possibility of turning on the stove is a very convenient thing for a Defender in winter (especially in Russian winter)). 30 minutes before leaving the house, I start the heater from my phone and sit down in a warm salon, and the car starts with a half turn! Structurally, Binar is not much different from Webasto or Eberspecher, so I think my experience can be used when installing them. Click image to enlarge Stay tuned! “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.” — Erich Maria Remarque |
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29th Dec 2021 3:02pm |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84
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Toyo Observe GSi-6 LS 265/75R16 Winter Tires
Hello, friends! Winter is inexorably approaching, so the question arose about the purchase of winter tires. 95% of the time I drive around Moscow, so I always buy non-studded tires from well-known manufacturers. The standard tire size for Def is 235/85/16, but it turned out that the choice of rubber in this size is extremely scarce. And the normal non-studded ones (i.e., which were not originally intended for pinching) were not on sale at all. I already ordered the Nokian Hakkapeliitta LT 3, when the Toyo Observe GSi-6 appeared on sale, one size 265/75/16, quite applicable on Def. Ordered them.
When they arrived, it turned out that they were with the LS index, that is, with a reinforced sidewall for SUVs. It's good. For a change of shoes, I called a mobile tire service, which changes the wheels of a Cadillac for me every year. The guys noted that the wheels were perfectly balanced, the number of weights is minimal. 18th Diameter Sawtooth + BFG: Click image to enlarge In process: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 16th diameter standard wheels + Toyo Click image to enlarge Stay tuned! “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.” — Erich Maria Remarque |
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29th Dec 2021 3:10pm |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84
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Anti-corrosion treatment
Hello, friends! Before the winter I visited the workshop of anti-corrosion treatment. It was recorded at 3 p.m., I left the Defender in the morning, when I arrived in the afternoon it was already washed, dried and ready for processing. Def has spent the last 10 years in sunny Bulgaria, Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge so the bottom and frame are preserved, as I think, well - there is only surface rust, nothing critical. ML-oils were poured into the frame, amplifiers, thresholds and motor shield, the bottom was treated with something liquid and black from the outside) So it was: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge So it became: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Stay tuned! “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.” — Erich Maria Remarque |
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29th Dec 2021 3:21pm |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84
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Just a few photos:
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.” — Erich Maria Remarque |
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29th Dec 2021 3:29pm |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84
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On December 26, I went to the service for an oil change — from the previous replacement, the Defender ran 8 thousand km. 7.5 thousand km, I think the optimal mileage for an oil change.
Click image to enlarge Consumables: Engine oil Mobil 1 Delvac 5W-40 4L x 2 152656 Oil filter UFI 23.444.00 Filter centrifuge original ERR6299 UFI air filter 30.141.00 Washer CDU1001 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Click image to enlarge “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.” — Erich Maria Remarque |
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29th Dec 2021 3:42pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395 
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Have to say I completely missed you thread Bingo. Excellent work. Truly excellent
Would love to see what the wing mirrors look like from the drivers seat
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29th Dec 2021 4:03pm |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84
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Thank you very much! I'll take a picture on occasion! “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.”
— Erich Maria Remarque |
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29th Dec 2021 4:05pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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Great write ups. Thanks for sharing. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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30th Dec 2021 10:34am |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84
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Hello! You're welcome!
“A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.”
— Erich Maria Remarque |
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30th Dec 2021 4:34pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10513 
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Great to see your still doing the upgrades to the 90 and what an update, many thanks Bingo
Happy new year to you  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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3rd Jan 2022 9:26pm |
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