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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5725

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Diff upgrades
I have been pondering diff upgrades/refurb.
The 110 TD5 is a 1999 model so from what I know that equates to a Salisbuy rear axle.

See here

Click image to enlarge


What type would the front axle be ?

Diffwise either a standard refurb or upgrade add ATB (LR mainly used as a daily drive and towing rally cars in forests so dont feel the need for full on locking diffs.)

Removing Salisbury diff, I have heard you need to stretch the casing?

Open to thoughts, suggestions etc.
I have contacted Nigel at Xcess4x4/Megasquirt. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #887305 23rd Feb 2021 4:34pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1694

United Kingdom 
Worth haveing a chat with Ashcroft transmissions, they have an ATB for the rear , https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/l...etrac.html, and can give advice on the front as well.
Post #887329 23rd Feb 2021 6:33pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Front will be std rover diff.

I would speak to Ashcrofts for your best options. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #887339 23rd Feb 2021 7:29pm
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jimbo55



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Midlands
Posts: 383

United Kingdom 
Nige at Megasquirt is definitely the bloke to speak to,

Front axle will use a standard long nose LR diff, definitely worth upgrading,

Nige will advise you against trying to “upgrade” the Salisbury diff as all the aftermarket (arb’s, etc. ) are significantly weaker than standard, if you’re after an updated rear diff he will advise you to change to a late td5/puma rear axle with a short nose LR diff. - he has posted a few videos comparing the Salisbury stuff on his Facebook page
Post #887341 23rd Feb 2021 7:34pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2049

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
+ 1 for Nige.

Pretty much as per the above post! Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent
Post #887349 23rd Feb 2021 8:15pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16808

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
jimbo55 wrote:
... if you’re after an updated rear diff he will advise you to change to a late td5/puma rear axle with a short nose LR diff. - he has posted a few videos comparing the Salisbury stuff on his Facebook page


This is the accepted route and is entirely adequate for most applications, but I have to say if I wanted to build an extra-strong rear axle now I would opt for the Ashcroft custom long-nose P38 pinion housing, since it avoids the problem of the closely-spaced pinion bearings in the standard P38 pinion housing.
Post #887389 23rd Feb 2021 10:53pm
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BaronDefenders



Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: London/Cotswolds
Posts: 803

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Santorini Black
Speak to Nige and have a look at some of his YouTube videos.

Failing that, Winchester Gears are worth contacting. They work with Nige on some of their offerings anyway. Charlie

1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD)
2002 Td5 90 (SOLD)
2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD)

1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored)
1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE)
2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK)
2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build)

Instagram: @BaronDefenders
Post #887414 24th Feb 2021 8:20am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
blackwolf wrote:
jimbo55 wrote:
... if you’re after an updated rear diff he will advise you to change to a late td5/puma rear axle with a short nose LR diff. - he has posted a few videos comparing the Salisbury stuff on his Facebook page


This is the accepted route and is entirely adequate for most applications, but I have to say if I wanted to build an extra-strong rear axle now I would opt for the Ashcroft custom long-nose P38 pinion housing, since it avoids the problem of the closely-spaced pinion bearings in the standard P38 pinion housing.


Exactly, I have tried to say many a time. Running two of ^^^ on my 110s. People who don't have any options would say leave it as it was. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #887422 24th Feb 2021 8:39am
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drakes



Member Since: 09 Oct 2009
Location: Hexham
Posts: 111

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 HT Auto Belize Green
I have been runing a Quaife Torque Sensing dif for the last 30 years and over 300k ( moving it from one vehicle to the next) and it still performs faultlessly and has required no maintenance except for normal oil changes
Post #887444 24th Feb 2021 11:02am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5725

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers for the replies. I had'nt planned on swapping out the axle for a later one.
What makes an ARB etc diff weaker than a standard one? Weaker when off roading/laning or just weaker overall for daily driving ? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #887452 24th Feb 2021 11:51am
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jimbo55



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Midlands
Posts: 383

United Kingdom 
Look on the xcess4x4 Facebook page and he has a video which compares the cross pin in the Salisbury to aftermarket and other LR options,

Excuse the rubbish screenshot but as you can see the massive forget single piece one is way bigger and stronger than the little part placed next to it, the aftermarket ones use a multiple part cross pin and is much weaker than the standard Salisbury option which is take straight form a Dana axle



Click image to enlarge
Post #887456 24th Feb 2021 12:07pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16808

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
excossack wrote:
Cheers for the replies. I had'nt planned on swapping out the axle for a later one.
What makes an ARB etc diff weaker than a standard one? Weaker when off roading/laning or just weaker overall for daily driving ?


An ARB is stronger than any standard LR diff except the Salisbury.

A torque biasing diff, be it a Torsen, Quaife, or Ashcroft doesn't have any cross pins and is therefore stronger than any standard LR diff, possibly stronger even than an ARB. If it came to a shoot-out between a Salisbury (with its massive construction) and an ATB, I am really not sure which way it would go, probably a halfshaft would fail long before the diff broke out in a sweat.
Post #887508 24th Feb 2021 4:08pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1758

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
I guess it depends if you want outright strength, or capability and civility?

Salisbury's are strong, but open, and mostly old and clonky!

The benefits offered by a tighter, less clonky diff, or one that offers locking or limited slip may outweight the loss of strength?

EDIT: All the above based on my 110, which has done 230k Laughing
Post #887510 24th Feb 2021 4:15pm
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 723

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
I had this dilema myself, and spoke to Nigel for his advice on an Ashcroft/ARB locker in the Salisbury diff. As stated above he stated that the Salisbury diff was stronger than these options, which put me off them.

He also told me that he wouldn't work on the Salisbury diff, as he has sold all his tools for them. In the end I had Devon4x4 refurbish the axle, putting in a Eaton TrueTrac ATB. Its such a heavy bit of kit it is difficult to believe it would break before other parts of the driveline, but time will tell.

Getting someone to work on the Salisbury if you are not prepared to do it yourself (I wasn't) might be a challenge, be warned! 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #887528 24th Feb 2021 5:21pm
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diduan



Member Since: 13 Oct 2016
Location: Central Balkan
Posts: 260

Bulgaria 
Salisbury has a strong center section, but a lot of other drawbacks and weak spots. It generally depends on intended use and tire size. If you want to go big, P38 would need some very expensive upgrades. In this case my first choice wouldbea gm 14 bolt. Salisbury axle is about 62" wide WMS to WMS, so you can pick a 63" wide 14 bolt from Cab&Chassis vehicle, or swap the hubs. I recently bought one from Germany for 350€ with detroit locker and 4.56 gears. Defender 110 SW MY2011 2.4tdci decat, no EGR
Jeep Wrangler YJ 1990 4.0. Front 78' Dana 60, Rear CUCV 14 bolt
Post #887532 24th Feb 2021 5:30pm
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