 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Creamy white paste under carpets and aluminium corrosion |
 
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| Will@LRW Member Since: 04 May 2019 Location: UK Posts: 132  
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My rear tub is pretty much all white paste (1997). It is the aluminium corroding. Under that place where it's happening (I believe) is a steel strengthening plate in the wheel arch, so electrolytic corrosion is occurring.
Sealing it over from underneath might help, or squirting in ACF50, or it might hold in moisture and make it worse. You could try and cut it out, but you'll be chasing it forever without a new rear tub. Welcome to Defenders! A never-ending facepalm from one winter to the next. The only long term solution is to not drive it in the winter   LR Workshop
Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com |
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3rd Feb 2021 3:12pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
"Snap" from me too - though my car, at 1994 is even older than Will's.
The white goo under the second row seats was pretty horrible - as were the holes underneath. Because of the holes, I replaced my panels with the YRM kits. When I was putting the new metal in, I made sure to use a gasket of some description anywhere steel and alu. were paired together. This applies to the steel brackets holding the second row seats to the footwell/floor (in the older style); the front seatbelt brackets onto the kick panel; the chassis to body mountings underneath; the nuts holding the rear tub onto the crossmember etc etc etc. Also, where you might have a steel fixing (bolt/screw) going through aluminium you ought to try and separate the metals. Again, I've used nylon washers as gaskets sometimes, or 'duralac' - a marine "paint" sort-of stuff which is designed to separate alu. and steel in yacht masts etc. Most of the moisture is probably coming from underneath, but do check that your rear side windows aren't allowing water in, which will run down there. Finally - do look at, and consider the Gwyn Lewis mudshield kit - it helps to keep road spray off that location. Can you tell yet that I hate alu. /steel corrosion...? Edit - oops - I've just looked at your pics again, and I now understand better where it is. I thought it was the bit of the rear floor under the second row seats. All the stuff about separating alu and steel still applies though. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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3rd Feb 2021 3:23pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018  
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Search on this site for duralac or galvanic corrosion. Plenty there.
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Covering with dynamat is just about the worst thing you could do. It will trap moisture in and accelerate the issue. JLR will do nothing about it, but a more conscientious manufacturer, Lotus, did a full product recall on the Elise when it had rubber mats bonded to aluminium foot panels in the Elise creating the same issue. Google will find you the steps they went to with their warranty repair. http://www.hazelnet.org/corrosion/ |
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3rd Feb 2021 6:12pm |
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| Race.it Member Since: 27 Aug 2019 Location: Algeciras Posts: 741  
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I used to own a Elise and remember the recall luckily mine was not affected but it did get the new floor mats Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.
5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details |
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3rd Feb 2021 6:32pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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I got two new floor panels and an extra set of mats for my Exige.
A delightful manufacturer to deal with. |
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3rd Feb 2021 7:24pm |
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 603 
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110CSWs are usually rife with similar corrosion after a few years!
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3rd Feb 2021 7:35pm |
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| BobBob Member Since: 28 Nov 2020 Location: Harrogate Posts: 6 
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Thanks everyone, good to know I’m not alone!
I’m not sure that the deadening is going to be that bad as it’s all from underneath, so short of taking the rear tub out and treating it all then putting it back, not much I can do. And it will keep it out of sight. I’m going though and cleaning up all the internal metal work as I go and will include some isolation as advised. Think I’ll clean and isolate where I can. ACF50 sounds like good stuff. I seem to have become a chemicals expert and hoarder rather than a Defender driver. |
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3rd Feb 2021 7:46pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
I would really consider doing something underneath. I know it's not an attracive prospect right now, but if you put dynamat on that just now, without doing anything else, the hole will just get bigger and you won't know about it until too late. A real case of a stitch in time saves nine.
If you can get umderneath somehow and slot some sort of barrier between aluminium and steel that will help. Even leaving it uncovered until spring when you have better weather to tackle it would be a better idea than dynamat just now. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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3rd Feb 2021 7:56pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Just about the worst thing you could do  Moisture is your enemy, so trapping it there will only create an environment to accellerate the corrosion. Air is your friend ~ other than chemicals. |
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3rd Feb 2021 11:40pm |
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| BobBob Member Since: 28 Nov 2020 Location: Harrogate Posts: 6
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thanks, I'll be underneath as soon as it's just a bit warmer, got pressure washer ready. It'll be cleaned and treated and sealed as best I can.
But still think it looks like panels need to be taken off, to get between steel and alu. properly. Will hold off covering it up from inside of course. It's been waxoylied or something, but this seems to have gone in lots of places, but wouldn't want to re-seal and seal in trouble... . It'll hopefully be in a garage and dried out soon so hopefully can do a good job.. |
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4th Feb 2021 12:06am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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I've pondered in the past how hard it would be to remove the issue completely, or at least in main, by not having an earth return via the chassis/mechanical components but cabled back to the battery via a number of isolated earthing nodes distributed around the vehicle?
Or whether adding something like the Red arc sysyem would improve or exacerbate the issue? |
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4th Feb 2021 7:37am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
^^^ I haven't heard of Red Arc and am not familiar with that.
Wasn't there a product once - some sort of powered anode/catalyst that you bolted to the car which then corroded sacrificially (instead of the chassis and bodywork!!). Something like you get on boats/yachts/outboards? (Off to google Red Arc now) Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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4th Feb 2021 10:45am |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3466  
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Anodes on boats possibly. I seem to recall someone I knew changing them out which sacrificed instead of the hull ? 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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4th Feb 2021 10:58am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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4th Feb 2021 11:17am |
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