 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Door insulation / sound deadening |
 
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 602   
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The plastic water shedders were superseded by foam ones which are much better - ED500620 / EJD500630 - you may need to trim the bottom corners as they were designed for the late td5 / Puma doorcards. Without water shedders the inside of the defender will be wetter than normal when raining. The foam ones also dampen out the sound.
If the doors are new they will be missing the sound deadening panel - the 12” by 6” pad stuck on the inner surface of the door skin. With this missing the doors make a hell of a racket when closing. Lining the inside with Dynamat / silent coat replicates the sound deadening panel and makes the door close with a solid thud not a tinny bang. |
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2nd Jan 2021 4:02am |
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| 90GTR Member Since: 05 May 2020 Location: London Posts: 198 
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Thank you, greatly appreciated !
Exactly what I was after, will get ordered and insulate accordingly - Credit to the forum.  |
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2nd Jan 2021 4:50pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3208  
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Are the doors the later TD5/Puma doors or earlier ones? The Puma doors, the glass fixing screws can hit the door skin from the inside when closing the door. JLR fitted a foam strip to stop this happening, but it may have fallen off. On older doors, the winder bracket that fits to the glass is also very close to the door when the window is up. Check that it is properly clamping the glass. Door skins also tend to delaminate from the frame. Puma doors have a few blobs of glue under the panel that crosses the door width at door handle height. On older doors, the panel also tend to delaminate from the 2 angle bars that go across the door. What is the condition of the window channels? Another thing to check is the inner waist seal, MTC8473, but if it is that, it would make the sound worse when window is down. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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2nd Jan 2021 5:28pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 176  
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Watching this with high interest.
I have the closing bang described above when the windows are up on my front puma doors, which I cannot help but think is the result of 2 parts hitting each other within the door assembly when closing, somewhere on the latch side of the door. Interestingly I have the exact same bang noise on right and left front doors. No problem with 2nd row doors (110). My Puma front doors do have the stock sound deadening pad stuck on the inner surface of the door skin. I have added some silent coat deadening, and replaced the stock foam shedder with silent coat isolator 6mm. All this have helped with road noise, but have not improved the closing "bang" which I have not been able to locate nor fix.
Seems like an interesting lead, What screws are you referring to exactly ? I'm eager to get to the bottom of this ! /Mat 3 pictures of my front doors soundproofing steps: 1/ shedder foam removed and stock deadening pad clearly there. 2/ generous layer of silent coat deadening (black) 3/ generous layer of silent coat isolator 6mm  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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5th Jan 2021 3:03pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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I recently cured a closing bang on mine. It turned out that a plastic guide for one of the lock actuating rods had come unstuck from the inner door panel allowing the rod to clatter against the panel when being shut. Cured with a bit of double-sided foam tape.
Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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5th Jan 2021 3:22pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 176
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Thanks Darren.
I did check these little fellows on mine, they are not the culprit. The bang is actually much louder than what those plastic guides could produce. /Mat |
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5th Jan 2021 3:35pm |
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| 90GTR Member Since: 05 May 2020 Location: London Posts: 198
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Thanks all - I'll report back in due course. These are early TD5 doors.
I've got the appropriate foam water shedders on order. I'll basically do all of the above and hope something cures it  |
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5th Jan 2021 5:45pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3208
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Hello MatLandy,
The screws I was referring to are the 2 screws that fix the glass, actually 2 plastic pieces, which I think are STC4787 to the regulator top channel. It is the little extra thread that can touch the door skin. When the window is all the way up, these 2 screws are just at the same height where the 'crease' in the body is before it curves outwards. Sorry I have no pictures. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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5th Jan 2021 7:53pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 176
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Excellent Dinnu,
I assume you mean the 2 screws circled in blue on this drawing, right ?
/Mat |
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6th Jan 2021 2:19pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3208
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Hello Mat, yes those 2.
On the skin, there was some foam to stop the top regulator rail hitting the skin metal to metal when the window is at its top position. I was repairing an 09 Defender, and that foam had practically fallen off. These 2 screws protruded just a bit, enough to leave marks on the inside of the door skin. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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6th Jan 2021 8:48pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 176
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Mine is a 08 one. Electric windows.
With above details from Dinnu (a million thanks, at least ) I just had a go at eliminating this "bang" when closing my front doors when the window is fully up.
First I added a few washers on the glass fixing screws (see 1st pic below) to avoid them protruding on the other side and touching the door outer skin. It did help in term of noise, well at least it changed the "tone" of it, but I was not entirely satisfied. I then cut some small rectangular pads from a 2mm thick neoprene self-adhesive sheet that I had laying around (see 2nd pic). And sticked them on the back of the winder bracket so that they will prevent any metal to metal contact between the winder bracket and the outer door skin. And now ... I am experiencing such a satisfying thud when slamming the door shut, that I may have opened/closed them at least 20 times each just to make sure I was not dreaming. A million tanks to 90GTR as well who started this thread - apologize for hijacking 
/Mat Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Last edited by MatLandy on 8th Jan 2021 7:37am. Edited 1 time in total |
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7th Jan 2021 8:00pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3208
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1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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7th Jan 2021 9:29pm |
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| 90GTR Member Since: 05 May 2020 Location: London Posts: 198
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Right, I've managed to take a look at this armed with the above.
Whilst the door card was off, I noted that by letting the electric window down (1 quick push on the button) i.e. not a lot, the clang bang noise disappeared back to a thud. Not quite the Rolls Royce noise I desire.... but a far improvement! This now welcomed thud is the same no matter what level the window glass sits thereafter. So it seems / I think with the window fully up, the glass is flexing and the window channel? (i.e. no. 10 in the photo) and the outer waist seal (no.11) are not absorbing the sound. It seems the glass is held firm against those all the way, at least until the last 1/2 inch of travel thereby allowing flex...
I have the part number for no. 11 (ALR5982 - LAND ROVER SEAL WAIST OUTER), but do not for no.10, can anybody advise? Hopefully it'll just be very simple if I replace the above. Hopefully the outer waist seal is just a push in fitment? Before I had fully inspected the above, I'd already fitted some dynamat around the internal skin of the door, as I'd noted a couple of rubber trims flapping onto them. It remains to be seen whether this makes a tremendous difference.. Also have to give plenty of thanks to the forum for the help and Duckworth LR i.e. Robin for prompt supply of the water shedders, which I'm to fit once above is sorted.
On another note (to avoid starting another thread), does anybody know how to fit the front window channel clip guide (as per picture below)? The drivers side is missing and don't fancy mangling the trim if I'm wrong.... |
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9th Jan 2021 4:57pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3208
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Hi 90GTR,
The illustration you pasted above is from 2nd row door of a 110. I have no experience with those doors, only worked on 90s, so all accounts are for front doors. Same, the partnumbers below are for front doors. If they fit 2nd row doors, you have to check. So for front doors: The glass is sliding in channels, steel U section lined with felt inside the U, and some rubber on the outside of the U. The channels fit in plastic trim which is like an S profile, but they are only on the upper section only. There are 3 of these S plastic sections, aft top side of the door, top, and forward side of the door. These look like they are 8, 9 and 8 again in the diagram that you pasted. The part number that you mention, ALR5982 - LAND ROVER SEAL WAIST OUTER, seem to me to be one of the plastic S profile, the one that fits on the front side of the door. The rubber waist seals, that fit horizontally, one on the outside and one on the inside are ALR5980 and MTC8473 respectively. I have just re built 3 doors, and I got the correct parts with those numbers. The outer waist seal will help a lot to prevent the glass hitting the door, but may be is not enough. Hence JLR fitted some foam, which you described as flapping trims  The youngest door I refurbished is from 2009.. and as well, the foam had fallen off as well.
As for the clip, that goes on the window channel (steel with felt described above) and then everything will have to pop in the S plastic channel. The whole lot then screws in with small self tapping screws to the door frame. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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9th Jan 2021 6:06pm |
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