The MOT on my 2004 TD5 defender has expirered, and I'm slowly making my way through the list of things to fix before I take it in for a test, but I'm a bit stuck with some trouble I'm having with my indicators.
1. The drivers side wing (side) indicator doesn't work. I've checked with my multimeter and it's not getting any voltage at the bulb holder.
2. Sometimes, when other lights are turned on, the drivers side front indicator blinks 2-3 times, then turns of for a random amount of time, then starts working again. It does this over and over.
3. For a little while, I have found that when I fire it up for the first time that day, the indicators don't work until I turn the hazards on and off. It will then work for the rest of the day even if I turn everything off for a few hours. (not sure if this would have been fixed by the new hazard switch, as I replaced it a couple of hours ago)
I have tried replacing the side indicators with LED ones incase it was a dead bulb (before testing with my multimeter, doh), and have also replaced the hazard switch as I've heard that could fix some issues.
I'm a total novice, so any advice is appreciated. I figure I may as well take a stab at fixing it before taking it to a garage while I already have the dash dismantled.
A friend has told me "it's probably a dodgy ground" but I'm not sure where to look?
im not an expert but i presume the headlights run through the 1950s indicator stalk without a relay and cause it to fail through overheating.
get a new stalk and a relay for the headlights. the leds are a good upgrade thats should further relieve the current draw.
Yes I would agree with NMBRPL8 here - check the plastic around the base of the stalks for signs of overheating. The good news is a new stalk unit is not a huge amount of money.
My experience is exclusively with the Tdi era vehicles, so bear that in mind, but having read your post I was left with a couple of questions of clarity really - sorry - not trying to be pedantic, just trying to understand exactly what's going on.
1. The drivers side wing (side) indicator doesn't work. I've checked with my multimeter and it's not getting any voltage at the bulb holder. - You mean the 'repeater' on the side of the wing, above the wheel?
2. Sometimes, when other lights are turned on, the drivers side front indicator blinks 2-3 times, then turns of for a random amount of time, then starts working again. It does this over and over. - you mean it blinks 2 or 3 times, even with the switch off? and then start working again - even with the switch off? Or do you mean that it then starts working again, controlled by the switch?
I have tried replacing the side indicators with LED ones incase it was a dead bulb (before testing with my multimeter, doh), and have also replaced the hazard switch as I've heard that could fix some issues.
I'm assuming that with no current, the LED repeaters aren't working either?
I think the advice about the indicator/main beam/dip stalk is worth looking at. I don't suppose you know anyone that could lend you one to swap in and try? I've had to replace mine twice over the years, as they do get loose and start to make poor contacts. They can also get 'gummed up' with dust. If you replace it, do try and get a reputable make, which is not as straightforward as it seems. 2nd time I needed to replace the stalk, I got a 'Lucas' one. It was just as rubbish and wobbly as the old one. I was lucky then to find a 'new old stock' genuine one on ebay, and that's worked a treat.
You've also mentioned LED repeaters. I know that when I went for LED indicators all round, I needed to use a different relay (provided by the lights supplier) as the LEDs don't generate enough resistance or load to work the original relay properly. But if there's no current to the repeater plug, then that shouldn't matter. I'm just mentioning it for awareness - a full swap to LEDs isn't as simple as plugging them all in.
Things like this can be a pain to track down. In your position I'd try and be as methodical as I could, following the wiring from the switch to the relay, and then to the lamp. So, with the switch on, can you hear the indicator relay clicking properly? THen try and find the wiring up at the bulkhead (behind the brake servo) and see if you're getting anything there?
Just as I've done all that I've realised that the Td5 vehicles might not have clicky relays... sorry.
Finally, and more basically, if the problems are all in the driver's wing, have you pulled the headlight out and had a good look at the wiring in there? Maybe there's something really obvious like a terrible scotchlok connector or something that a previous owner might have fitted, or just a poor connection in the original loom?
Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8
in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi
not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Just incase someone finds this in google results, and wonders what fixed it;
The front drivers indicator was a bad bulb holder, i realised when i hit it while it was off, the light would start flashing normally suggesting there was a dodgy connection there somewhere. Replaced it and everything was fine
The drivers wing indicator was a weird one. When I took out the front indicator, i found an extra side indicator hidden behind there wrapped in masking tape, I guess from when it was re-sprayed. Pulled it through to the wing, plugged it into the led side indicator, and it worked. No idea why i have a second not-working connector but ah well.
The problem where the indicators wouldn't work until i turned the hazards on and off was likely fixed by replacing the hazard switch but who knows.. I also changed the relay so i can't really say which one fixed it. It's a good job someone suggested to replace that relay because the previous owner fitted an LED indicator relay which meant they were way too dull
Even though my problems were fixed, i went through and cleaned all of the headers anyway as i already had the dash dismantled.
