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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857   
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Wear in either bearing will show up as movement in the bottom bearing when the wheel is jacked up. Always replace the top and the bottom at the same time, it's a false economy not to. Also fit a new seal (the big one) at the same time. If you mean both top and bottom, yes. If you mean both sides of the vehicle, no. Strictly you could replace the two swivel bearing without removing the inner swivel housing from the axle, but you will need to remove it to change the big swivel seal. No, unfortunately not. TDCi (and I think the late TD5) ones were also "value engineered" to the point of significant inferiority. No press required, just hand tools and a brass drift. It's a good opportunity to check and repack the wheel bearings, convert the wheel bearing from the awful stake-nut-and-spacer system to the superior older two-nut-and-no-spacer system, slot the brake hose bracket on the top swivel so that the hose can in future be removed from the bracket without unbolting the top swivel, check and regrease the CV joint, check the halfshaft splines, and check the brake components. |
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26th Oct 2020 11:01pm |
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| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 203
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Thank you Blackwolf for your reply.
I've got a few sets of Timken Wheel bearing kits ready as I've not changed them on this LR yet but ready for when it happens. I did as you suggested on my 90 and swapped to the old school two nut method. I have also noticed some play in the prop shafts, seems to be in the spline section, I'm guessing I'm going to need to treat myself to a couple of them soon too. The exhaust manifold is warped too! Looks like I'm going to have to give it a good going over ready for winter. |
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26th Oct 2020 11:17pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
Slot the brake hose bracket on the top swivel if your td5 is 05 reg front brake hoses ends held in place with spring clips and you can remove brake Calipers without unbolting the top swivel
 Last edited by dorsetsmith on 27th Oct 2020 9:59am. Edited 3 times in total |
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26th Oct 2020 11:21pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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Just finished a major engine session on my Td5 Disco before yesterday's MOT, which included replacing a warped exhaust manifold with a dewebbed skimmed one. Also two broken manifold studs drilled out and all studs upgraded, along the way I found a stripped thread on the centrifugal filter (Helicoiled), the inlet manifold was loose, (removed, cleaned, refitted with new gasket), the injector seals were leaking, the front camshaft oil seal was leaking, the cam cover was leaking (all sorted), the FPR was leaking (replaced), the coolant plug behind the exhaust manifold was leaking and was actually loose (only finger tight) in the head. The Disco is now less leaky than it has been for about 10 years and runs much better!  |
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27th Oct 2020 9:43am |
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| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 203
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[quote="blackwolf"]
I've managed to strip the exhaust manifold off....I've got 3 broken studs to try and get out. Would you say just drilling is best? I was going to buy a stud extractor but scared for breaking one in the head! They removed easily so I'm guessing would undo. I'm going to try and get a few jobs done as I seem to have time all of the sudden - Lock-down 2! |
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9th Nov 2020 3:37pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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My studs had broken off in the head so I had no choice but to drill, and frankly I was nervous attempting to drill out a steel stud from an aluminium head. In the end I very carefully centre-punched the end of the stud fragment, then drilled progressively larger sizes from 2mm up to (I think) 5mm with a left-hand-spiral twist drill. To help alignment I fitted some long (approx 6 inch) lengths of M8 studding in adjacent holes, which made it much easier to drill in line with the stud. The stud won't be bottomed-out in the hole, so you should be able to break though into the void behind the stud.
After drilling I tapped a suitable sized Torx screwdriver bit (the solid kind, whatever you do DON'T use the hollow security-Torx type) since this expands the stud less than an easy-out tends to, and to my delight they came out without fuss. Better still the hole I drilled exited the bottom of the stud plumb central, I was so proud that I have kept one in black museum! The stud probably isn't especially tight in the head, but it if has sheared outside the head the fact that it has been inserted hard onto the blind (unthreaded) portion of the stud may make it harder to shift. Good luck, whatever method you choose to use. It's quite nerve-wracking drilling into your cylinder head! |
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9th Nov 2020 6:37pm |
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| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 203
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Thank you for your advice! I will get some left hand drill bits and when I feel confident try.
I'm someone who can get anything wrong 
Like you describe they are broken within as the manifold is really warped. I put it on a glass table and the bend is mad...several mm. Definitely be a good job to have done though as it's been leaking awhile. |
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9th Nov 2020 11:02pm |
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