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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Soundproofing - noisekiller etc vs Wright-off-road
Hi folks.

Just read a cracking few threads on soundproofing options, but noted that they were quite old.

I have a 2010 CSW - which means it has a hardura-type mat across the footwells, seatbox and bulkhead as well as headlining and side trims. plus some very thin, partial rubber matting in the back.

The hardura matting is starting to disintegrate, so its time for a new one. In parallel to that I'd like to fit some sort of soundproofing kit as may partner struggles with her hearing.

Any advice on a known-good setup would be great.

I had planned on fitting a wright-off-road acoustic mat system as I do like the wipe clean nature of the existing mats. But I'm not sure how effective it is compared to a Noisekiller/Dynamat approach. Similarly I would still need some sort of kit for the doors/window sides/roof/engine bay etc. so it may be entirely appropriate to fit a Wright-off road kit to the front (taking care of replacing the disintegrating existing kit at the same time) and rear floors and then buying a partial Noisekiller kit for the sides, roof and engine bay.

So any tips on a suitable kit that would fit under the existing OEM trim and under (or in place of) the factory hardura matting would be very welcome. I'm happy to fit this alongside a new OEM front mat set or in place of it. Same with the existing thin mats in the rear, it could go under or I could replace the lot.

Thank you.
Post #860166 6th Oct 2020 11:59pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Hi Gasket,

Lots of differing points of view on here, but mainly based around what your expected usage is. If you plan to spend most of the time on-road, therefore not suffer from excessive water/dirt in the foot-wells that needs to be drained or washed out, then a full soundproof is your option. If you do plan to do a lot of off-roading, then only part soundproofing is recommended.

Basically you have three or four layers that you use as you see fit.

Base layer is Dynamat/Noise Killer/Silent Coat. Again, there are differing POVs here. Some feel it only stops rattles (which it does brilliantly well) but does not have an impact on sound-deadening/transfer, so therefore only a sheet or two is needed per panel, not a full layer. Others argue that a thick, dense material layered on top of flat metal will stop some sound coming through, so cover all key areas such as the floor pans, walls and roof. I’m of the latter opinion, so did the whole lot (including inside the doors) with silent coat.

Next layer is the deadening foam, for example Dodomat, available from the same supplier. Some deadening has adhesive backing (for use on the roof, vertical areas such as van walls or the front edge of the footwell etc) and some is extra dense/HD and cut to shape before being layered in areas such as the middle floor well or load area. In the roof, you can use this foam as well, or alternatively you can use an adhesive backed egg-carton type foam. Be aware that there’s limited space under the headlining. The HD foam stops sound ingress and also ‘dampens’ sound from within the cabin, such as music or talking. As such, you use the deadening accordingly.

The final layer is your choice of matting/headlining/trim. If you plan to drive mainly on the road, then carpet is obviously the go-to covering, perhaps with rubber mats in the foot-wells/load area for cleanliness. If you plan to do a lot of off roading, then clearly rubber matting is the order of the day. For the headlining, Alcantara does dampen the cabin further. Interestingly, I think psychologically a dark headlining also makes the cabin feel more intimate (quiet?). Some people will also add alcantara/leather trim to the dash, door cards, trim etc, which also help dampen sound a little bit. Note that some aftermarket carpet, such as Exmoor Trim’s, comes with the deadening already applied to the under layer. Obviously this will double the thickness of material on your floor if you add it on top of the deadening sheets. No bad thing, but it can create problems with trim, metal carpet strips, door closing etc. So check before buying/applying.

Finally, it’s worth remembering where the sound comes from and what else can be done.

Roof. A lot comes through the roof, so do it properly.
A-pillar. Nothing you can do
Door seals. Lots of ‘whistling’ through door seals, so makes sure they’re in good nick, but also make sure your doors are properly aligned and close properly.
Floor pan. Only a few mm of metal between the cabin and the road. Do these properly.
Front foot-well. Lots of noise comes from this area, so dampening/proof it well. Carpet will improve it further, as will quieter and more road-biased tyres. Clearly this is the same for the rear wheel arches.
Bulkhead. Difficult area this. Obviously if you plan to take the engine out for any reason, you can make some improvements to the other side. However inside it is limited. You can put some behind the dash and at the top of the footwell, but not that much.
Transmission tunnel. Can be noisy, especially in a 2.4, so as much as possible under the cubby, around the gear box cover, etc. Carpet does make a difference here, and there is an argument that a better clutch (which I saw in another thread you’ve added) will help as there will be less rattle, as will a remap as it will reduce and smooth out the revs.
Sound system. Finally it’s worth bearing in mind that after you’ve dampened/proofed an improved sound system will cancel out (Not block) the final ingress of sound and allow you to enjoy your music/audio books more.

Anyway, as you can see, with so much to do there are many options and variants, as there are also many opinions. What you do will be governed initially by primary usage, then money, then time/effort. If you do a full job, DIY, a 90 could take a weekend, but it’s worth it.

Finally, here is the go-to shop. If you mention what vehicle you have, they will recommend the kit/amount you need. Excellent service, excellent price.

https://www.deadening.co.uk/

Good luck Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #860194 7th Oct 2020 8:26am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7682

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Gwyn Lewis mud shields help a great deal to reducing crap hitting the rear underside of seat boxes behind the rear wheels. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #860246 7th Oct 2020 11:53am
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Lodelaner



Member Since: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Lambourn
Posts: 621

United Kingdom 1988 Defender 90 V8 Petrol ST Shire Blue
Rambling thoughts:

Probably worth thinking about serviceability as well. I chose a Wright off Road design which is easily removed to access floor, footwells and seat box for mods and maintenance.

If it gets wet through off road use, rain ingress and condensation (the last 2 definitely) is the system designed to dry out or will it lock in the damp and accelerate rot? JB

@Lodelaner Instagram

Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content
Post #860251 7th Oct 2020 12:04pm
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 704

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
I have the full Noisekiller kit fitted including seat box, rear floor / arches, sides and roof. I can't comment on the difference with and without as it was already fitted when I bought the LR but it is certainly quieter than the standard LRs at work.

The material is pretty sturdy and easy to wipe down but does have a few rips from dragging heavy tool boxes and the like over it in the load area. The only real complaint is it holds water like a sponge and despite best efforts at sealing the body gaps, the rear floor and footwells are always wet under the material. 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop
1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top
1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles
Post #860609 9th Oct 2020 11:05am
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Gents thank you for this.

So it looks like the best course of action is:

WrightOffroad acoustic matting kit in the front and a load liner in the back. That way water isn’t an issue.

And then a conversation with NoiseKiller to get a part kit to cover all the other areas including the bulkhead parts that aren’t covered by the acoustic matting kit.

The Puma acoustic matting Kits seem to be thin on the ground at the moment, so there may be a supply shortfall.
Post #860636 9th Oct 2020 1:27pm
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Pilgrimmick



Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 581

United Kingdom 
My Wright off road mats arrived today, a quick trail fit and they look good, just need some time to fit the seat box mat properly, but initial thoughts are good. 80" 1948
Lightweight V8
Bowler Tomcat
130 Station wagon
90 300tdi
(Santana PS10 pick up)
Range Rover L322 (Ful fat)
Post #860683 9th Oct 2020 6:08pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Spot on! Are yours for a Puma? If so could I ask where you got them as post places seem out of stock.
Post #860699 9th Oct 2020 7:27pm
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Pilgrimmick



Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 581

United Kingdom 
No mine is an older 90, got it direct from Wright off road. 80" 1948
Lightweight V8
Bowler Tomcat
130 Station wagon
90 300tdi
(Santana PS10 pick up)
Range Rover L322 (Ful fat)
Post #860742 9th Oct 2020 10:25pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Thanks - I've just called them direct.

Right - have just spoken to Wright off road, placed my order and my kit is being made. Have gone for a full front set and a flat sheet for the back to replace the thin factory mat. All being made in black, so should be quite subtle.

I'll speak with Noisekiller too to see if they can put a kit together for me to cover everything left exposed by the Wright kit.
Post #861520 14th Oct 2020 12:37pm
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Pacha



Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 771

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Hi Gasket - did you fit the Wright off road stuff?

Any pics/thoughts would be appreciated. Rgds.

Chris
Post #863590 26th Oct 2020 10:49am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2077

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey
Theres quite a lead time on Wright matting kits at the moment due to covid, as a result they are quoting 6-8 weeks wait. I'm 7 weeks in Wink
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.
Post #863631 26th Oct 2020 3:17pm
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Pacha



Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 771

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Thanks Mo.

I will await opinions with interest!. Rgds.

Chris
Post #863636 26th Oct 2020 3:33pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Hi both - its on order and should arrive mid-december.

Mo - I'd love to see how you get on when it comes to fitting as yours will arrive long before mine. I'm still trying to work out how the mat will fit in conjunction with/instead of the bulkhead padding sheet. (mine's pretty ropey along the footwell overhang so if I can lose it I'll be happy)
Post #864041 28th Oct 2020 4:25pm
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