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| jeffersj Member Since: 23 Jan 2015 Location: Near Preston Posts: 431   
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Best to give the underside a good clean to determine where the oil is coming from, one of the pictures shows gunge down the side of the oil filter so that may be loose or the "O" ring failing.
Also what are the oil levels like, check to see if any are low which might help in finding leaks. Jeff Ex 1968 Series 2A Ex 90 TD5 Ex D3 Ex D4 |
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6th Jul 2020 9:19am |
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| Huttopia Member Since: 23 Feb 2016 Location: West Midlands Posts: 1964
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If you have a lorry wash near you they will steam clean the underside for £20 or £30, making it much easier to see what is going on. On the plus side, with all that oil covering the vehicle rust won't be an issue
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6th Jul 2020 9:22am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
I agree that a good wash would help - the oil will migrate quite a lot when it's warmed by the engine - and the massive airflow generated by sheer Tdi speed.....
It does look as if the crankshaft seal at the back of the engine might be gone though - leaking into the bellhousing; and the gearbox to transfer box seals too - though it's hard to say. On the first of these, in your third pic, the bellhousing drain plug is still in place. (Sorry I can't photoshop or highlight it at the moment - the one by itself, at the bottom of the bellhousing - about a third of the way in from the left of the pic, and a third/half of the way down from the top) Unless you're wading, you could do without this in normal use. It may well seem to stop an oil leak from staining the drive, but if the leak is bad into the bellhousing, then it won't be doing your clutch plate any favours. One of those places where oil is better out than in. You'd keep the bolt handy in the car - and remember to fit it if going wading! I think yours is a 200Tdi? - I'm not so familiar with them, but on the 300 there's another drain plug at the bottom of the timing chest ( behind the fan, bottom left of the engine, as if you're standing in front of the car ). It's feasible, judging by the other pics, that the crankshaft seal there could be leaking too, and maybe letting oil into the timing chest. Again - not a great place for it to be. But please check for yourself the location of a timing chest drain plug on google before undoing unfamiliar bolts.  Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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6th Jul 2020 9:41am |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2076 
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... you forgot the relentless torque, Don
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. |
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6th Jul 2020 12:28pm |
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| MaxB Member Since: 26 Jun 2020 Location: Southampton Posts: 8
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Thank you all for your help! Will get it washed asap and investigate further.
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6th Jul 2020 10:07pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2545 
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It usually looks worse than it is with oil leaks on Land Rovers. A little oil goes a long way.
I’ve had what looks like quite bad leaks but then upon removing the filler plug to top up whatever component has been leaking it still dribbles from the level so has barely lost anything. As above get it clean and then look for the likely suspects: - sump & its plug washer - rocker cover - front crank oil seal - rear crank oil seal (leaks into bellhousing) - gearbox front or rear oil seal - gearchange housing - transfer box input seal - both output flanges - intermediate shaft seal - transfer cover plate & drain plug - diff pinion input seal - diff casing gasket I’ve had leaks from all of those and more in the past. All solvable with a bit of effort, but I would bet good money that you’ll find a leak from at least one of them on almost every Land Rover on the road. |
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6th Jul 2020 10:39pm |
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