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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2545  
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No need to replace the bearings unless they’re worn or rough to turn. Worth cleaning and re-greasing them though, and don’t mix up the loose races for the inner and outer ones. Replace the hub seal and check the stepped land on the stub axle which it runs on for wear.
By run out of the disc I presume you mean the end float on the hub as you mention adjusting the bearings. I always do these by feel, tighten the inner one enough to remove all the play and the fit lock washer and outer bearing which you do up F.T. before locking off. Other things to watch for are broken drive flange bolts, caliper bolts that won’t come undone, brake pipes twisting off when undoing to release caliper (slot the pipe bracket so that it can be removed in the future without having to bleed), worn drive flanges, split hub caps. None of which will be an issue if good maintenance has been done in the past. |
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17th Jun 2020 10:22pm |
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| KiwiNCFC Member Since: 14 Jul 2019 Location: East anglia Posts: 46  
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Thanks that's really helpful! I only asked about the bearings because on my MOT recently it said there was bearing play on one side so I was thinking of doing it in a few months time after the brake work. Do wheel bearings have to be replaced in pairs?
Good tip about the slot in the bracket for bleeding! I'm pretty sure my calipers are originals and they look very rusty. I'm only replacing them due to age (1997) but I just hope the caliper bolts don't cause an issue as I can't weld. But I am soaking them each day in wd40 and I have some plusgas on order! |
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17th Jun 2020 11:27pm |
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| V8GPC Member Since: 18 Jul 2016 Location: Manchester Posts: 289
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regarding the caliper bolts, i did my rear ones recently and had one stubborn one. The heads of the bolts rust and as they are 12 pointed... they are not the original size once wire brushed off.
They are supposed to be 13mm, but i found this a bit loose; the 1/2 inch knocked on easily and was much tighter, however on the 4th one it was worse the 1/2 inch was too slack. I ended up carefully getting a 12mm on, needed a bit more knocking to get it on, just make sure its all the way home. Also the bolts can be really tight, i needed a long breaker bar... plus a little bit more, if you can get plus gas to the front of the caliper bracket between disc and bracket, this is where the threads are exposed and rust. Not easy and if you are still driving you need to make sure you clean any off the disc. Once these are undone, the rest is straight forward. |
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18th Jun 2020 7:00am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16858 
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If you mean "do both the bearing in a single hub need to be replaced at the same time" the answer is yes. If you mean "do the bearings in both hubs on the same axle all need to be replaced at the same time" the answer is no. It is possible that the bearings in the loose side are still fine and just need adjusting, although sod's law says that if you assume this and don't have new bearings on hand when you strip the hub you'll find the old ones are scrap! |
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18th Jun 2020 9:40am |
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| KiwiNCFC Member Since: 14 Jul 2019 Location: East anglia Posts: 46
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Great help guys! I will try and be careful with the bolts. I just hope they will be ok. I think I will try to get all the caliper.bolts loosened before I order calipers/discs/pads otherwise I'm going to be stuck with parts and no garage will fit them! It's a shame as I'm confident enough with doing brake changes and bits (I've done it before on other cars) but once a bolt is rounded I don't really have another option
 Those Irwin rounded bolt head removers won't even work as the bolts are so tight to begin with!
Will keep you updated on how I get on! Thanks again! |
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18th Jun 2020 8:48pm |
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