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Grenadier

Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey

Paint Touch Up

Hello all,

I have some areas of the DC’s paintwork that require touching up. I eventually want to do a full respray but budget means that it’s not priority. With this in mind, how easy is it (or not) to take back, repair and respray these areas. Three distinct jobs I’d suggest. Or would this be quicker/easier/not-much-more-expensive to get a body shop to do it?

These are three areas, there’s a total of five or six that could do with some attention. Front wing, b-pillar, rear 3/4. Thanks as always.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

28th May 2020 3:28pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3615

Check out my thread on the subject. It’s not that hard to do an OK job. It’s bloody hard to do a great job!!!

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72208.html

28th May 2020 6:24pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1756

It’s well worth finding a couple of body shops and getting a quote “for cash”. The smaller ones tend to be more flexible on their prices. If you are happy for it not to be fully blended to adjacent panels as you are having a full respray in a couple of years it will be cheaper. At least you will stop the corrosion and it will look good to everyone unless they stare at it from a foot away, even then they probably won’t notice. You can even see if you doing some of the prep will keep the cost down

Getting the rust back to a good surface, eradicating rust, priming, sanding , colour coating and the hardest part, top coating with lacquer to give it a good finish is real hard, time consuming and expensive . once you buy all the sundries like sanding papers, Panel wipe , cutting compounds and polishes, masking tape and paper etc plus the paint the costs mount. And to get the top coat right you really need a da polisher and cutting compounds. A paint shop has all these plus use 2 pack paint, heat the paint to dry hard plus booths to keep out dust and the temperature right when spraying.

So cost all that up and compare to getting a reasonable price from a body shop. I’ve done diy paint on older cars but never been really happy with the result. Where as doing all the prep, including removal of any bits to assist the body shop and leaving the rest to them has worked out a reasonable cost for a good finish.

28th May 2020 7:50pm

Grenadier

Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

Thanks both, I suspected as much. But as mentioned, this is a temp job.

IanH, can I ask what 'prep' you would recommend I offer doing before delivery? Just taking it back to metal, or also filling etc? What is something I can reasonably do to save them time and me money, without kicking the arse out of things and also getting into more technical/specialist territory?

Ta Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

29th May 2020 10:06am

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1756

Hi Grenadier,
Re prep you can do. Obviously have a chat with the couple of the body shops to see what best reduces their time but leaves the specialist bit to them. The things that have have helped when I have done it are.

1. Removing any parts of the vehicle they would want to remove to do the work. So for instance on a ford I removed seats, trim , carpets and pulled wiring loom out of the way so they could cut out old sills and weld in new, prep, prime and spray. Then leaving me to put it all back, clean up any dust etc. I agreed with them to do this at their workshop, brought my tools and made sure all the bolts and trim clips etc could be removed via a dry run at home.
For a door that had a dent and paint scuff I removed door card, door vapour barrier etc
2. For rusted areas or a big paint scuff I took the rust back to good steel, but talked with them about the size of the area they wanted me to sand and with what grades. Best to do just before they have vehicle so no corrosion starts. Looking at your 3 pics. The b pillar they would do as it’s very small, the rear corner you could do. The wing on the other hand has options. If not blending it to other panels then removing it ( which is tricky but Co1’s post and others on here help with that) is an option but expect they would find it easy to fine sand themselves whether it was removed or not.

Re filling etc, that’s best left to them as they know the particular fillers that work best for them and they then know the substrate under them is sound, free from corrosion and the thickness of the filler. therefore they are responsible for any issues re paint finish and any issues that arise with corrosion coming through at a later date.

So in the end removing bits, cleaning up, refitting bits is something you can do, leaving them to just spend their specialist skills to prep, fill, prep and paint.

Ps once painted you need to leave a month or two before polishing and waxing.

30th May 2020 12:14pm

Grenadier

Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

Thanks Ian, all makes sense. I'll pop down this week.

Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

31st May 2020 10:08am

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