 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Aquasteel rust converter |
 
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 921  
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Everything you need, made in Britain, is available from here (as used by me):
www.bilthamber.com |
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25th May 2020 7:35am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17729  
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I've used Aquasteel and it does exactly what it says on the bottle and does it well. I think most if not all modern rust converters now are tannic acid based and convert the rust to iron tannate, with a polymer overcoating, and to a great extent all such converters will be much the same.
I've also used dilute phosphoric acid for the same purpose in connection with heavy machinery restoration and needle-gunning or wet-blasting, followed by a dilute phosphoric acid wash, priming, undercoating, and top-coating, produced adhesion and protection results that exceed North Sea Offshore industry standards. Rather more hassle than you want, I suspect, though. Tannic acid converters are generally pretty safe and benign, the older phosphoric and hydrochloric acid based converters are less idiot-friendly and tend to give off harmful fumes, etc. For this reason they are no longer particularly easy to obtain - we have to be protected from ourselves, after all. Keep the bad genes in the pool, and all that. |
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25th May 2020 8:06am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 
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I have used the Aquasteel before and I have been happy with what it has done - but not under a land rover. I have not had the experience of it getting covered in mud and road grime. In your experience does it stay stuck to the steel?
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25th May 2020 8:17am |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1629 
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I recently used Aquasteel on a 109 chassis which was in very good condition apart from some areas of a light rusting. I used a rotary wire brush on the rusted areas then followed up with the Aquasteel which turned the rusted areas a dark blue/black tough conversion coating which is ideal for further painting.
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25th May 2020 9:24am |
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| driver Member Since: 02 Aug 2009 Location: bude , cornwall Posts: 206 
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I have just finished applying this to my 90 as part of a suspension and brakes refurbish, very easy to apply as it goes on white in color then turns black after a few minutes so you can see where you have missed,
2.5 ltrs did all of my 90 with one coat just need to decide on a topcoat now. Here is a couple of after pictures  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge This is before Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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25th May 2020 10:07am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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I am thinking the same for mine. Just can't decide if I put red oxide on first or straight to Dinatrol. I think if there is any chance of the red oxide peeling then it is better not putting it on! Rust forms where water sits and water sits behind peeling paint!
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25th May 2020 12:25pm |
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