 | Home > My Defender > 1988 Shire Blue Landrover 90 Restoration |
 
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240   
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If it were me, I'd keep the black arches, but I'm a traditionalist
 Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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12th May 2020 8:03pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3186  
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Love the looks as well. Seems like I'm back in a cross road more than ever. I like original, I like the modenised look as well. I think I need to find a compromise. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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12th May 2020 8:20pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3186
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I think the County range started to have colour coded arches (or maybe just an option) when the Defender name was introduced, but stand to be corrected. Of course mine is not a Defender.  1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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12th May 2020 8:24pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3186
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Recent photos, front end in progress. The 19J helped to preserve the front part of the chassis, plus needed a lot of scraping of old waxoil that I liberally applied some 25 years ago.
 Click image to enlarge With a bit of cleaning it turned out quite good actually. Click image to enlarge Both mudgards are ready from painting. Mudguards re assembled, but keeping out of the vehicle until the engine is re conditions, and painting of bulkhead and front side of the chassis. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Engine almost ready to come out. Click image to enlarge 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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12th May 2020 8:49pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2545 
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Coloured arches were on County-specified models long before the Defender name came in.
Might have been station wagons that got them as standard and maybe County hard tops had black arches? |
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12th May 2020 8:49pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3186
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Front / Radiator panel ready. Some time ago I ordered the ’LandRover 90’ decal to go on the front. I ordered it through an ebay seller, and at time of ordering did not pay enough attention. I am now disappointed as found that the size is not correct, and the 90 font is different, correct font should have the 9 and 0 joined together. I might order a new one, this time I am more careful.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Mock up to see how it looks. Click image to enlarge 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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16th May 2020 4:43pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3186
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Attention now turns to the bonnet. Had already decided that the frame has to come off for a proper job.. and I now think that the frame will get galvanized. Maybe the frame will be taken to a sandblasting shop to remove the paint, but I am concerned that they might warp it. Other option is paint remover and a lot of elbow grease. Frame only has surface rust, but that is easily removed by the acid at the galvanizers.
Once all the rivets were removed, the frame can only slide back so far, so a bit of a struggle to pop the frame out from one of the rear corners. I did not want to damage the skin. Once one corner is off, then it slides out. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th May 2020 8:53am |
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| HK07 Member Since: 15 Dec 2016 Location: Hampshire Posts: 746  
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Amazing work, love this thread.
How do you make your own DIY zinc plater please? Look forward to the next update. 2007 90 Puma - Love it - Best car I have ever owned. 1989 Ninety 200tdi - Love it - Second best car I have ever owned. 1951 80" Series 1 - Love it - Third best car I have ever owned. |
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17th May 2020 11:25am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3186
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For Zinc plating I use white vinegar and Epsom salt, ratio is 1lt vinegar with 100g Epsom salt. Epsom salt chemical name is Magnesium Sulphate. Before I started plating, I left some zinc to dissolve in the vinegar to 'load' the vinegar with zinc ions. I get zinc from boat supplies shops, they are used as anodes.
For power supply, I use a battery charger. Very important is the polarity.... the red lead (positive) goes to a zinc bar, while the blue/black lead (negative) goes to the part you want to plate. My battery charger is an old fashioned one, the newer electronic ones might not work. Mine also have the 6volt option and a high/low setting, which is useful to contol the current. As an extra current control, I also vary the distance between the zinc bar and the part. There are scientific research on how much current you need per area of part you are plating, but I just go by the bubbling rate. My bath is about 12liters, which is more than enough to get the small brackets plated. Larger parts can be done in 2 steps. For the smaller parts, I usually hang them in the bath by a very thin strand of copper wire. Parts need to be clean. I do not have a sandblaster, wish I do, but usually wire brush on a grinder/driller is doing the job well. I like the brushes on the driller, because I can reverse the rotation of the driller, that way keeps the bristles on the brush straight and do a better job. The finish I get is not shiny, but more of a dull mat grey finish, which I actually like as I think it gives a better grip for the etch primer before painting. I did polish out some parts with scotch brite, and they turn out really nice as well. I do this more as an extra level of corrosion resistance. I have tested some plated parts by wetting then in a water/salt solution, and they stood up really well. But other stuff that will not get painted, and that were originally galvanized by LandRover are still going for hot dip galvanizing. I find galvanizing relatively cheap for the performance you get back. Over here they charge about 1euro/kg. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th May 2020 12:01pm |
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| Lodelaner Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lambourn Posts: 621 
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Shire blue with Wolfs and colour coded arches 
Click image to enlarge With hard top... Click image to enlarge Tornado Alloys Click image to enlarge and finally Rostyles! JB
@Lodelaner Instagram Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content |
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17th May 2020 1:36pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3186
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Nice 90 there Widget
 . Have you considered colour coding the rims too? Colour coded arches look nice. I guess those were factory finished like that being a County. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th May 2020 3:40pm |
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| Lodelaner Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lambourn Posts: 621
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Yes, the arches were coded on the CSW. As you say there was a very limited production life of Shire Blue, its my favourite and I've had these two 1988 models. (the top 2 pics are the same E reg, and the bottom 2 are the same F Reg)
I did think about coding the Wolfs on the 4C, but have decided to get rid instead. I have a set of Tornado alloys and a set of rotsyles awaiting tyres to go on. JB @Lodelaner Instagram Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content |
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17th May 2020 4:27pm |
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| Mike c Member Since: 11 Aug 2017 Location: Maldon, Essex Posts: 904 
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Love that fantastic standard 90 CSW V8, very rare these days
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17th May 2020 4:35pm |
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| red zepplin Member Since: 26 Mar 2015 Location: Never far from a brew (Lancashire) Posts: 196 
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Nice collection there Jonathan
Simon WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG My sky lantern petition http://chng.it/HJXmZC47 |
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17th May 2020 4:56pm |
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