 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Changing the output shaft |
 
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| deaallen Member Since: 15 Feb 2016 Location: Basingstoke Posts: 266   
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Its well discussed over on this post: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic65478.html
Personally for me, it depends on how many miles yours has done before needing the output shaft changed as some seem to wear a lot faster than others. I'm going to go with the genuine one when I change my clutch as mine currently seems to be ok |
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7th Oct 2019 2:24pm |
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| ChrisDefender Member Since: 29 Oct 2015 Location: Midlands Posts: 460
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Cheers, I will take a look at that thread.
In the blurb the one from LOF suggests it’s a genuine one so I may go with that. I’ve done 60k in mine. Cheers for the info.  |
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7th Oct 2019 2:32pm |
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| ChrisDefender Member Since: 29 Oct 2015 Location: Midlands Posts: 460
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Well, after reading that thread I am now no wiser as to go for the genuine or the updated Ashcroft
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7th Oct 2019 3:24pm |
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| keef9t Member Since: 13 Mar 2016 Location: manchester Posts: 183 
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I share your dilemma.
Have got my output shaft off at the moment. Was expecting to find it worn, 2007 90H/T with 86000 miles on the clock. It looks like new. it had black grease in it. I am the third owner and don't know much about it's repair history. So should I grease it up again and put it back, put a new genuine in or 'push the boat out' and go Ashcroft Modified. I remember reading an old post from 'Blackwolf' where he greased the existing one and put it back because he found it in good condition. |
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7th Oct 2019 4:31pm |
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| ChrisDefender Member Since: 29 Oct 2015 Location: Midlands Posts: 460
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Yep. No idea what mine is actually like, but I think I have the symptoms of a worn one from what I can gather. My trouble is I don’t want to take it all apart and then have it sat at a garage waiting for delivery of parts and then get it booked in, I would rather have the parts waiting and ready to go.
Pain the rear to be honest. 
I wish I could be sure that’s what it is. |
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7th Oct 2019 4:40pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17775 
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Personally I think that the main issues with the adaptor shaft are alignment and assembly. Several have, after failure, been found to be insufficiently inserted into the drive cup, but it isn't clear whether this is because they were never assembled correctly (likely) or have worked their way out (unlikely). So correct assembly is essential.
I think that the main cause of failure is that the gearbox output shaft and the transfer box input shaft are not properly aligned, due either to incorrect specification or incorrect manufacturing. If so, this would mean that some vehicles will have adaptors that fail regularly at short intervals, and others may never fail at all. Again history bears this out, with some Def2 members having had repeated failures at roughly predictable intervals, others having very high mileages with no failures. If this is correct, then it suggests that if you have a fairly decent mileage on your shaft and it hasn't failed, then it isn't going to. My suggestion therefore is to have a look at the one that comes out and if it is still good, refit it with plenty of molybdenum disulphide grease (the black stuff used in CV joints etc). If the one that comes out looks dodgy, then replace it. If you have a high mileage shaft and need to replace it, then a standard shaft will probably last a similar high mileage. If you have a low mileage failure, then fit an Ashcroft kit to ensure better lubrication (a low mileage failure suggests to me that there is an alignment issue and there is constant fretting of the joint as it wiggles in operation). Bear in mind also that the most likely component to be the source of the misalignment is the extension housing on the gearbox, so if you fit a replacement gearbox you may, if I am right, alter the failure characteristics of your coupling. I last fitted a new clutch to my own 2007 double cab at 150,000 miles a few years ago. At that time the original coupling was bone dry but a better fit than the brand new, genuine, standard replacement I had already bought on the assumption that the original must be on the way out. Because of this, I lubed it generously and refitted the original. I did also change the transfer box, which could conceivably introduce an alignment issue. Now, with the mileage now a little over 240,000 miles, I need to replace the clutch again (squeezing 90k miles out of a standard clutch is quite an achievement in its own right!) and have just ordered the parts to do this. It will be interesting to see what the original coupling is like now, after very nearly a quarter of a million miles. |
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7th Oct 2019 5:23pm |
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| ChrisDefender Member Since: 29 Oct 2015 Location: Midlands Posts: 460
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Hi Blackwolf,
Many thanks for that reply, it has now made things clearer. I think I was getting a bit bogged down with it! The clutch is rattling a lot when the pedal isn’t pressed down, so I think I am going to swap that out for a LOF one, so I will take a look at the shaft and make a now, informed decision. Much appreciated mate. Thank you. |
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7th Oct 2019 5:32pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8268  
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The jolt could be coming from the front drive members. they arent 1 piece at they are on the CVs.
i have one coupling at 82k and no failure but am thinking when the clutch is done to take a look and if it needs it i will replace with ashcroft one for simple piece of mind. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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7th Oct 2019 9:31pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20833
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Out of curiosity what is the symptoms of these being very worn?
I assume backlash similar to having worn drive flanges and splines? Is there an approximate amount of degrees play max I could check for somehow? My adaptor shaft has done 77k, as far as I'm aware from new. Last clutch was changed at about 42k, it was checked (adaptor shaft) and I was told it was in excellent condition. I subsequently as advised here asked them to grease it too, then the new genuine clutch went in and has been excellent since. The LR technician that was on the phone at the time told me the flywheel was fine, and so was the adaptor shaft so could stay as they were with no problem. Just changing the clutch only. I'm tending to think I should think about shortly getting an adaptor shaft in case it's needed at some point, or at least saving for one and possible other parts like another clutch. That way it brings down the cost in one go, which if all at once can be pretty significant sum. The adaptor shaft is always a bit of a concern with its tendency to let go leaving you stranded wherever that may be, not to mention the safety consequences. As I've had good mileage I'd be inclined to go Genuine if I did get another in my case. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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23rd May 2020 10:18pm |
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| 2010Blackdefender90 Member Since: 07 Jan 2018 Location: London Posts: 562 
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Clunks as you describe could be many things... clutch ratting at tickover is a sign the clutch is going. The clunks could be many things, the output shaft just goes, but could be masked by drive shaft, diffs, drive flanges. Mine crashed and banged, the rear diff and drive shafts were shot, all was quite for 4 months and the front started. My output shaft was replaced at 80K, was worn out on one side, some people have had many let go. Replaced ALL my drive line with Ashcroft parts and ATB’s, f/c/r. Zero clunking, zero. |
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23rd May 2020 10:25pm |
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| 2010Blackdefender90 Member Since: 07 Jan 2018 Location: London Posts: 562
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Impressive mileage on a clutch  |
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23rd May 2020 10:27pm |
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