 | Home > Td5 > Joining the TD5 non starter club! |
 
|
|
|
| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6480   
|
The screen doesn't "do" anything actively, it's a shield around the two sensor cables to prevent interference.
It is connected to an ECU pin to drain any induced currents away.  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
||
24th Mar 2020 12:38pm |
|
| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6480
|
That's not the original colour scheme (should be PINK/BLACK and WHITE/BLUE, with a screen).
Suggests a replacement fitted at some point, which may have now failed? 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
||
|
24th Mar 2020 12:40pm |
|
| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 860  
|
Thanks Martin
I did try layering some sheets of tin foil between the starter and crank sensor/wiring in desperation in case the starter was throwing the signal 
My dad would come and tow start me to eliminate possible starter interference but we’re abiding by the lock down rules |
||
|
24th Mar 2020 12:43pm |
|
| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 860
|
I'll go out and get some pictures. It all looks very original, no evidence of tampering/bodging. The car only had one previous owner and he only ever took it to LR main stealers even just for wiper blades and bulbs so its quite unlikely. |
||
|
24th Mar 2020 12:55pm |
|
| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 860
|
Well i got the car running. Albeit breifly.
While i went out for the wiring photoshoot i saw some damage to the pinkish/brown wire. I stripped back some of the rubber insulation sleve to see it not how i would want it to look. I re arranged the cable so the routing was slightly different compared to how it was originally fitted. Jumped in the car, plugged in the nanocom, disconnected the trickle charger and the car burst into life. I immediately hit the accelerator and it was holding 2500 rpm fine, as soon as i took my foot off the revs went down then it died. I can only assume a combination of the wires being moved, and turning immediately after the trickle charger was disconnected meant the sensor got a big enough signal to the ecu? And potentially the reason it would run at 2500 rpm is because the signal was producing more grunt/voltage than it could at the lower RPMs to overcome a potential slight breakage. My next move will be to run a separate set of crank sensor wires to the ECU. So i'll need to tap into Martins fountain of knowledge and i will donate to the forum. So I need clarification of exactly what the plug is and what crimp tool i need. I believe its an econoseal 2 pin. I need to know what sort of screened wire i need And id like to know if you can remove the connectors from the red ecu plug. If so what are they/what crimp tool do i need. I could cut it and solder at the red plug but id much prefer to refit the pins if its possible. Photos of pin 36 and 13, 36 is whit/blue and 13 is brown/black and photos of the plug with insulation stripped back and damaged brown cable Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
||
|
24th Mar 2020 2:31pm |
|
| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
yes econoseal 2 pin.
Td5 ECU pin with wire from forum shop BELDEN 2 Core, 24 AWG 0.2 mm² Multicore Screened Cable or Belden Equiv 8762 LSF 1 x 2 x 20AWG Overall Foil Last edited by dorsetsmith on 24th Mar 2020 3:27pm. Edited 2 times in total |
||
|
24th Mar 2020 2:49pm |
|
| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6480
|
Your colours look OK then.
If you want I - well the business = www.fnltd.co.uk/shop - can supply an entire new overlay cable. 2 core screened with the correct sensor plug on and the terminals for the ECU end. This removes the risk of making a dodgy crimp that could fail you later down the line (the responsibility is on me!) The red plug terminals are removed by pulling the white face plate gently forwards (in my experience they pretty much fall off). You can then see the latches holding the terminals in, these are gently levered up away from the terminal and the terminal removed. 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
||
|
24th Mar 2020 2:54pm |
|
| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6480
|
0.2mm2 isn't enough, the original spec is 0.5 and as we see that eventually gives up  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
||
|
24th Mar 2020 3:04pm |
|
| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 860
|
PM'd Martin |
||
|
24th Mar 2020 3:14pm |
|
| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
all i have at the moment also will not last as 4 x 400 kva gen control panels in build out in work shop and the BELDEN screen spec form memory and your right 0.5 LR spec |
||
|
24th Mar 2020 3:59pm |
|
| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 573  
|
During upgrade of our Discovery 2 and move of the engine ECU into the cab, I have to make some cables longer, also the cable to CPS. I made the shielded cable myself. 2 FLRY 0,5 wires, twisted, covered with shield from RG58 coaxial cable (some better one with dense copper shield, rest from CB antenna) and finally covered with heatshrink tube. It works fine for lot of years.
I have used the same system for repairing of CPS cable in several TD5 cars. It is nothing magic, just make the cable robust enough. For test you can take ethernet (patch) cable (FTP) with soft core wires, and just use one twisted pair inside and shield. It works, but it is not robust enough to survive for long time in car. Reason to make the cable myself was time - it took me only 1 hour to make it and place it in car. Much faster then ordering some suitable cable somewhere, and waiting for delivery of 2 m long piece. And because of only short piece needed, it was also cheaper. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo  |
||
|
25th Mar 2020 8:56am |
|
| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 860
|
New ecu arrived today. Fitted it, added the injector codes. Bang car fires up straight away.
Disconnect battery plug in old ecu. Doesn’t start. Re fit newer ecu - starts fine. While the engine is running I wiggle the crank sensor and it doesn’t cut out or anything. So bizarre. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Last edited by LandymanStefan on 25th Mar 2020 12:48pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
|
25th Mar 2020 12:35pm |
|
| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6480
|
So duff ECU not crank wiring?
1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
||
|
25th Mar 2020 12:35pm |
|
| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 860
|
But why would the car start and run temporarily yesterday if the ECU was cooked?
Still happy to change the wiring as mine isn’t in the best of shape. |
||
|
25th Mar 2020 12:39pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
