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agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Puma wont start - remote diagnoses with the missus

Hello all,

My 2008 Puma Defender is parked up at home while I'm overseas and my partner is starting ti regularly and taking it for a roll to keep everything from going stale, her last attempts however have been met with what she says is attempts at turnover but no start.

The battery is not even 2 years old and it was driven properly a week prior, attempts to jump start it have been met with the same results, she says she didn't see any sparks when the jumpers were connected suggests that the battery could well be ok.

I don't have much idea of the sound of what happens, but at least something is happening...

Question is what other basic tests could be done before I have to pay for a remote mechanic to look at it?

I was thinking fuses were next. Any way to check for a kaput starter? I cant imagine her letting the fuel run out.

Any other thoughts?

thanks Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

22nd Jan 2020 12:36pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5416

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

I would leave until you are home to sort it.

But.

When it is previously started how long has it been run for? If not at lest half an hour you maybe taking more power out of the battery than putting into it.

What is the immobiliser light doing when locked, and whilst trying to start?

If you have a battery charger I would get wife to connect that, leave it doing it’s thing over night, then try starting it after doing a lock, leave, then unlock attempt start procedure.

Andy.

22nd Jan 2020 12:57pm

hank

Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2224

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Does it turn over for a while? Or just half a second and then stop abruptly (immobiliser) > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind

22nd Jan 2020 1:23pm

agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Hello guys,

Run for long time previous, good drive.

I'm not sure regarding how long it turned over, I'll ask.

It's away at in-laws second home and she will have only one, maybe two 'sessions' before I'll be over in a month, and then I'll only have a day with it myself with civilisation (landy suppliers etc.) about 3 hours away return, hence me wanting to try to get as much prep/diagnosis done before I'm there...

Would love to get a meter on the battery, but mine are both with me for work!

So fuses aren't worth looking at? Any in particular if so?

Immobiliser, thats the fob right? Worth trying the other fob? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

22nd Jan 2020 1:32pm

hank

Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2224

Very occasionally mine tries to start but will cut. I remove keys from ignition, lock vehicle on fob, wait a second, unlock via fob and try again. Always starts on second try.

It's unlikely to be this but you may as well add it to the list of things for your partner to try > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind

22nd Jan 2020 2:19pm

Swollock

Member Since: 16 Mar 2013
Location: Wellingborough Northants
Posts: 259

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Bonatti Grey

I am with Hank, my 2008 does this a couple of times a year and I have never quite worked out what I did in what order to cause it. It turns over for a second starts for a second and dies. Locking and unlocking with the fob and leaving it locked for a minute or so always seems to cure it.

Tony 2008 Defender 110 XS CSW
Volvo S60 T8
Triumph 1200 Rally Explorer
G0UBX

22nd Jan 2020 2:38pm

Thon

Member Since: 22 Nov 2015
Location: Salisbury Plain
Posts: 696

immobiliser /alarm system can prevent it from starting and/or turning over. Mine does it regularly when I either don't start it quickly enough after unlocking on the fob, or if I haven't locked the car after turning the ignition off and then re-start.

Simply arm / lock vehicle on the fob, wait for 10 seconds, unlock on fob and start again.

22nd Jan 2020 3:07pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5416

The red flashing light in the instrument cluster will tell you (us) what the immobiliser is doing.

Where abouts is the vehicle, one of us maybe nearby to check it out for you.

22nd Jan 2020 4:25pm

Thon

Member Since: 22 Nov 2015
Location: Salisbury Plain
Posts: 696

I'm not sure that the immobiliser lights to which you refer are actually that reliable or accurate. Mine don't seem to be.

22nd Jan 2020 5:03pm

Pat

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: Somewhere new!
Posts: 363

hank wrote:
Very occasionally mine tries to start but will cut. I remove keys from ignition, lock vehicle on fob, wait a second, unlock via fob and try again. Always starts on second try.

It's unlikely to be this but you may as well add it to the list of things for your partner to try

I have to go through this starting procedure "every time" with my spare fob. My main fob works first time every time!

So might be worth trying a different fob. It started with a kiss, never thought it would come to this.
SIII CSW Safari, limestone, (JAC 914N). Where is she now?

It's not a car, it's a way of life!

22nd Jan 2020 6:29pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

Just press unlock on the fob just before you put the key in, even if doors are already open and you’ll find that will do the trick.

If you unlock the vehicle get in and start you won’t need to.
But during the delay for xxx time of left open or not started the doors will be open alarm not set but the immobiliser armed. Hence the start up, then cut out.

Usually the red dash led will flash when the immobiliser is active. So if your in the drivers seat, and you see that LED blinking. Don’t start it. It will start then cut.

Instead press unlock on the fob, then start it.

If you ever disconnect the battery you need to press lock multiple times rapidly to arm everything and sync too. The red dash led will flash fast then slow down and your back to normal.
As I said, the start up then cut cycle is deliberate and it means the immobiliser is armed and for good reason. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧

22nd Jan 2020 7:58pm

agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Thanks guys, looks like I need to have a better understanding of this. Discussion revealed other goings on that make issue likely related to something else.

Apparently zero power, no indicators from alarm, no alarm, and no start.

Likely battery right?

But then why no start with jumpers? Computer/fob needs restart?

And what's draining it? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

22nd Jan 2020 8:48pm

hank

Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2224

Sorry to hear this isn't your issue... But pleased to hear I'm not the only one with the immobiliser niggle! > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind

23rd Jan 2020 6:49am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5416

If opening the door with a completely flat battery, trying to start, then attaching jump leads and having another attempt, will probably confuse the hell out of the alarm system.

23rd Jan 2020 9:07am

agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

I'm thinking:

Attach jumpers
Start car running that I'm jumping from
Wait 5min?
Blip the blipper 4 times (or whatever it is that you do after a battery disconnect?)
Attempt start

... ah but then, what drained it??

Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

23rd Jan 2020 10:01am

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