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party monkey

Member Since: 31 Dec 2010
Location: Oxon.
Posts: 1311

2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Cairns Blue

Tarting up my roof rack - finish coat advice please

Folks, pic below shows the sorry state of my LR rack where the powercoating has come away. Picture taken after I'd removed all the loose coating. Looks like previous owner just slapped a bit of black something or other on it just to mask the rust....

Whilst treating the rust itself is no issue, my question is on the finish coat. Was planning to use Smoothrite satin black mainly because I happen to have some (and then seal where it joins the powder coat with a black silcone sealer).

However, has anyone used any other product that may be more appropriate for this type of application ?

Wasn't planning on removing the rack to have it blasted & partially re-powder coated (if that's even possible), but I may have to review that decision depending on how cr4p a job I make

Click image to enlarge Jon - 110 td5 [sold]. Currently Defenderless.

14th Jun 2011 10:52am

Zagato
Site Supporter

Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5026

The problem is ALL the metal will be rusting under the coating, you really need to strip it all back, treat the rust and re-coat it. These racks have been rotting like this for years as with many other LR parts. I looked at getting one years ago and some companies decided not to stock them because of the claims.

It's a shame you can't take it to a galvaniser but it would explode

as most of it is totally sealed. Brownchurch Galv ones or the Ali makes are better BUT if you don't want to cut your losses and flog this one I would recommend Plasticote as a stop gap top coat but I'm not sure you will ever be able to treat the rust effectively particularly on the welds even if you treat and re-powder coat it. It's a lot of money and hassle I'm afraid, if it was me I would flog it and get an Ali one

14th Jun 2011 11:12am

kingofthesparks

Member Since: 06 Jan 2011
Location: Very close to Watford gap services , northants
Posts: 987

The newer LR ones seem to have a better finish and do not have the problems as before, dont know if they are using a different company or process ( stove enamel as opposed to powder coat) ?

14th Jun 2011 11:48am

party monkey

Member Since: 31 Dec 2010
Location: Oxon.
Posts: 1311

Thanks chaps,

I'm assuming my rack was fitted from new, so that would make it just over 6 years old and therefore possibly one of the 'older' types.

For the amount that I use the rack (once in 7 months!) I don't think it currently warrants going to the additional hassle and cost of replacing it with something more durable but I do take your point Chris and no doubt you'll be saying 'I told you so' in the future

I'll have a look at the plasticote range.... Jon - 110 td5 [sold]. Currently Defenderless.

14th Jun 2011 1:42pm

Zagato
Site Supporter

Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5026

kingofthesparks wrote:
The newer LR ones seem to have a better finish and do not have the problems as before, dont know if they are using a different company or process ( stove enamel as opposed to powder coat) ?

That would be great news as I think they are the nicest looking racks

The Ali ones corrode around the fasteners eventually as well & the Brownchurch ones look a bit old hat on a Defender I think but they are very good!

Sounds like your doing the right thing Jon

No point in buying new or spending loads of dough on it and after all it's only cosmetic, it will still do the job for years and look smart with a bit of spray

Plasticote can be bought in most places including Halfords and will stop rust showing through again for a loooong while

14th Jun 2011 2:08pm

double cab happy

Member Since: 01 Jun 2009
Location: merseyside
Posts: 573

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black

Zagato wrote:
It's a shame you can't take it to a galvaniser but it would explode as most of it is totally sealed. :

just a thought, drill drain holes in each sealed section then get it galvanised and a quality powder coat, i recon it will last 10 years plus then, and don't forget galv treatment will be inside and out,

leave it to long with the rust slowley eating away under paint or plasticoat and it will only be fit for the dump.

14th Jun 2011 8:31pm

BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

I'd just rough it up (no need to get rid of the rust) then paint it with tetrosyl tbl005 chassis paint. That assumes there are no holes for water to get in. If there are, then zags your man with his magic waxoyl wand

14th Jun 2011 8:41pm

mick

Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red

Get it powder coated just had my winch bumper and mud flap brackets £40 top job

14th Jun 2011 9:07pm

party monkey

Member Since: 31 Dec 2010
Location: Oxon.
Posts: 1311

Thanks again all for the views

I had a closer look at the rest of the rack last night and accepting that I cannot see what's going on underneath the powder coat, the rest of it is in pretty good nick and no apparent signs of the coating having blown or significantly cracked anywhere else.

Despite all the sense you chaps are talking in terms of stripping it all back, galvanising and re-coating etc, I think for now I'll just patch what's evident and focus on the slowly decaying 2 tonne's ish lump off steel/birmabright slung underneath the rack

BigMike - thanks for the heads up on Chassis paint - will take a look into that. Jon - 110 td5 [sold]. Currently Defenderless.

15th Jun 2011 8:59am

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