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Naf



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: Sandbox
Posts: 412

Kuwait 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Nato Green No Canopy
TD5 with oil bath hubs
So i did not know that every 20k i need to remove all the wheel hubs and repack with grease. Sounds like a problem to me...

Is there a way to convert the grease packed hubs to oil bath versions front and rear?

plz list all the needed parts so i may have my LR parts supplier include in my next shipment

thank you Can't leave well enough alone
Post #813713 5th Feb 2020 9:55am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7686

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
there is no reason the bearings should need repacking every 20k. you could always take the seal out of the stub axle. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #813728 5th Feb 2020 11:03am
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Naf



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: Sandbox
Posts: 412

Kuwait 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Nato Green No Canopy
What about the front wheel hub? Can't leave well enough alone
Post #813734 5th Feb 2020 11:43am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2078

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey
Use double lipped hub seal RTC3511
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.
Post #813740 5th Feb 2020 12:40pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1186

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Fairly sure they'll last longer than that... Mine have done 20k since last year including off-road in all sorts of conditions and been under water and mud regularly. Not repacked them (probably should look) but have checked for play a few times and been absolutely fine. Trying to think back to when the bearings actually went on and they've probably covered the best part of 60k in the last few years and never looked at them once.

Mind you when I last did them also coincided with rebuilding the axles with Ashlockers so they also got treated to the Ashcroft HD flanges which are a damn sight better at keeping crap out than the standard Land Rover plastic caps. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #813749 5th Feb 2020 2:42pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7686

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Mo Murphy wrote:
Use double lipped hub seal RTC3511
Mo


You can also use older rr hubs that had two seals one each end.

Or take seal out of inner stub, axle oil, cc oil/grease will migrate down shaft/cc shaft to end cap, some will work back from there. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #813764 5th Feb 2020 6:07pm
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Naf



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: Sandbox
Posts: 412

Kuwait 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Nato Green No Canopy
Thank you all for your posts, looks easy enough. I will dig up some RR front hubs and score the proper seals for them. I feel it will give me more of a fightin chance against leaks.

Lets see if its also that easy... Can't leave well enough alone
Post #813875 6th Feb 2020 10:01am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7686

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
What you really need to do is work out why current ones are failing. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #813926 6th Feb 2020 5:42pm
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Naf



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: Sandbox
Posts: 412

Kuwait 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Nato Green No Canopy
Mine havent failed yet, i am just bein lazy and lookin for ways to prolong “major services”.

The proper LR servicd for the wheel hubs is 40k or 24,000 mi. But seein the other defenders, they were bone dry, even after just being serviced at the dealership. Can't leave well enough alone
Post #813928 6th Feb 2020 5:58pm
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isacs



Member Since: 28 Aug 2015
Location: Leamington spa
Posts: 404

United Kingdom 
I’m doing the discs pads and callipers all round and repacking the bearings as part of the process.
Post #814007 7th Feb 2020 12:58am
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