 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Removing steering wheel |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879   
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If you have access to an assistant, try getting them to give the nut a sharp tap with a hammer (note a tap, don't beat the daylights out of it!) whilst you pull hard on the wheel, sometime that shock of the impact is all it needs.
Some types of LR wheel are drilled and tapped for a puller, most however are not, and unless you have access to a proper old-style steering wheel puller can be a major PITA. When you do get it off, before refitting it (or whatever you're fitting in its place) put a smear of copperslip on the splines and taper and do not over-tighten the nut, it really doesn't need to be done up ridiculously tight like most people seem to do, since all it does is hold the wheel onto the taper. |
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19th Aug 2019 8:29am |
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| discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2496 
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Don't use a 3 leg puller. You need a steering wheel puller that utilises the threaded holes in the steering wheel. No doubt someone will be along shortly and be able to give you the manufacturers name, or you could make one up yourself. Alternative is to Google "steering wheel puller".
Blackwolf beat me to it  Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S Morgan Plus 8 |
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19th Aug 2019 8:31am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5743 
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Thanks both.
There are no threaded holes in the boss for the insertion of bolts to remove it. 
Back to sharp taps and wiggling. The wheel is getting removed as there are two cracks through the holes where the screws go through into the boss. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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19th Aug 2019 8:55am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19574
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This is my concern also as I may need to get mine off sometime. Have you soaked it in penetrating fluid like WD40 the day before?
On a Puma the steering wheel nut is 27NM if memory serves me rightly. So as Blackwolf mentions that is not overly tight. But as it is a safety critical item myself personally I would always use WSM torque spec on this. (Some may say that’s fussy, but we all do things differently.) It is very annoying when what appears to be a simple job often ends up being one of the hardest and very time consuming to boot. This is often the case, and what appears to be large difficult jobs can be completed, finished and in good time.  Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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19th Aug 2019 9:49am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879
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The absence of threaded holes on most LR wheels is the reason why you need an old-fashioned steering wheel puller (which unfortunately are both rare and expensive nowadays). These have a hefty padded bifurcated steel ring which goes behind the wheel, and the puller then pulls on the ring. I have a long-discontinued SP version, but similar things are still available - if you have £150 or so to spare: https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/gedore-802875...ler-1-68-1 |
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19th Aug 2019 11:38am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5743
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Thanks BW. I think I might pop over to the local garage and see if they can assist.
Word of the day: bifurcated 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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19th Aug 2019 11:42am |
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| Siwynne Member Since: 04 Nov 2016 Location: West lancs Posts: 559 
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Pour a little (loads) boiling water into the boss whilst wriggling banging and pulling.
Obviously don’t sit in the drivers seat whilst doing this. It’s worked for me in the past. |
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19th Aug 2019 4:02pm |
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| G4UJS Member Since: 20 Jan 2019 Location: Shropshire Posts: 226 
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I had exactly the same problem, took it to a local Land Rover specialist and he had it off in 2 seconds without using any tools.... he just shook it far more than I would of dared!!!!!
Good luck Rob |
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19th Aug 2019 4:07pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879
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And there I was thinking that this technique relied upon the sudden shock loading that you put on the wheel when the boiling water hits your nuts! |
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19th Aug 2019 4:22pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1569  
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I agree with Rob put a bit of welly into it and give it a good tug and wiggle (leave the nut on a few threads so it doesn't smack you in the face) don't be scared you'll not break it.
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19th Aug 2019 7:12pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19574
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This made me laugh when it shouldn't really.  What's worse is when corrosion sets in on your nut(s) if you've applied boiling water too.  
Then you'll certainly need a puller....  
On a more sensible note.
It definitely seems to be a case of giving it a bit of welly as Nick mentioned with the nut still slightly threaded on. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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19th Aug 2019 10:08pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1569
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What are you trying to say Steve? when you have problems in life just give it a good tug and wiggle?
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19th Aug 2019 10:13pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5743
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Rubber hammer time. (and avoid hot water on my nuts) 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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20th Aug 2019 8:52am |
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| Siwynne Member Since: 04 Nov 2016 Location: West lancs Posts: 559
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Is this an aftermarket or og wheel and boss.
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20th Aug 2019 12:21pm |
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