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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 572

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
From my experience with mounting and/or repairing CB antennas to Defender or other similar cars main problem is to choose the right place for antenna. Biggest problem is, when the antenna wire is in close parallel to any other metallic part, like antenna mounted just next to windscreen frame.
The antenna wire must be in as free space as possible, placing it next to windscreen frame, is like adding a capacitor between antenna and car body. Over this capacitor large part of radio energy is wasted into the car body, instead of radiating it in the air.
Presented pictures are nic, but they are right for much higher frequencies. For CB on 27 MHz all mechanically usable antennas are electrically short.
The best compromise is approx. 1,5 m long antenna. Best place on Defender is in the middle of roof. Other good places are just below the top of roof next to the tail door - antenna wire is over the roof and base is mechanically protected byt roof itself.
Good is also top of bullbar or next to on car body.
Using some roof bars is possible, but you must arrange proper grounding to car body, and single wire is nearly nothing. I was using a thin metal strip for this grounding.
I have seen several shorter antennas - like 70 cm, never worked right. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #785497 7th Aug 2019 5:18pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3996

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Madtom, thanks for the information although this just makes things more complicated than ever!

I do have the option to mount the antenna above the rear door, there is an unused grommet there that I could pass the coax through although it's not my first choice as I would need to find some sort of gland to properly waterproof it. I could potentially mount it on the bull bar at the front (Aussie style!) too, which I would prefer, but is the lack of height not a problem? In either case I don't see it being easy to run the antenna cable away from the metal body of the car.

If all I have to wire an earth from the mount to the car chassis is auto electrical wire, is that a waste of time then? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #785513 7th Aug 2019 5:47pm
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 572

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
I may not it wrote right - problem is not the coaxial cable, just not place it directly next to other cables, like cables to injector. Antenna wire is the 1,5m long wire on the top of the antenna base - the antenna itself.
Aussie style - you are right, or just look on military car - Hummer with long antennas od bullbar, old Series with antenna boxes on top of front fenders. Military have already solved the right place for antennas. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #785515 7th Aug 2019 5:57pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5416

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
The base as in where you mount it, so was roof bar, now gutter mount.

A magmount aerial works, and that is only earthed via the coax cable.
Post #785520 7th Aug 2019 6:20pm
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 572

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
Mag mount is also earthed over capacitance between roof and mag mount itself. But on CB they are not good, compared to some sort of clip.
But on Defender they are no usable, they don't hold on alu.
There is a large difference between earthing (= connecting to car body) for lights (= DC) and for CB antenna (= 27 MHz). The earth connection must be the right for the working frequenci. For light it is just DC, and you have to car for resistance, for CB antenna, if has to have very low inductance at frequency 27 MHz, and it is not easy to make a measure. Best way is to use antenna holder and place, that does not need any extra earthing. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #785642 8th Aug 2019 6:34am
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
I found an SWR meter great for tuning the Arial

SWR meter
The SWR meter or VSWR (voltage standing wave ratio) meter measures the standing wave ratio in a transmission line. The meter can be used to indicate the degree of mismatch between a transmission line and its load (usually a radio antenna), or evaluate the effectiveness of impedance matching efforts



Click image to enlarge
 For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #785685 8th Aug 2019 12:15pm
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ianmacd



Member Since: 02 Mar 2018
Location: Sussex
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
A few observations here.

I have a dual band (2m/70cm) antenna on a gutter mount above the rear door and it works fine. It is a decent diamond mount though. No 'ground' needed for mine as I picked a half wave antenna but by ground what you actually mean by ground is the other leg of what is effectively a dipole antenna. It doesn't need to be connected to the body or chassis at all, it just has to be an effective counterpoise to the vertical section. This is easiest done by connecting to the body though especially at HF wavelengths like cb were it was pointed out, any mobile antenna is a compromise. A quarter wave ground plane antenna at 27MHz would be almost 3m long.

If you don't have an effective counterpoise at the feed point of the antenna then the likely result is the outside of the coax braid will become the counterpoise and start radiating. In some antennas this is a desired effect but not for any mobile mounted CB antenna for sure. Lucky at only 4W you are unlikely to do any real harm to people. What you could do (and this is where measuring the reflected power is important and usually expressed as a ratio using a VSWR meter) is blow the 'final'/PA transistors in the radio so making sure your antenna system is well matched isn't just about achieving better range, its about making sure your radio survives when you 'key up'. Current: 2012 L322 Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 & 2016 Defender 90 XS both in Black.
Past: RR L322 2008 & 2004, 2011D4, a few Disco2s, P38, RR Classic, couple of Disco1's, SIII SWB
Post #785704 8th Aug 2019 1:54pm
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