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Gladys



Member Since: 28 Nov 2015
Location: South Wales
Posts: 28

Wales 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Indus Silver
Big clunk, but not what I thought.....

My 2015 110 station wagon was kangarooing and clunking noticeably. I ploughed through all the posts on here, and having checked the UJs, diffs and halfshafts and replaced a couple of drive flanges, I was fairly confident that the symptoms pointed to the dreaded MT82 output shaft wear, despite the apparent lack of red dust at the drain hole.

I visited a friend's workshop and with some kind assistance, extracted the transfer box to reveal....a nearly new output shaft with no looseness and even a little bit of blue grease still on the essentially unworn splines. I repacked the joint with a sachet of genuine grease and moved on to the transfer box.

The problem would seem to be in the LT230 itself. With the difflock applied, there appears to be about 40 degrees of backlash between the front and back propshaft drive flanges. I'm assuming that this is a bit excessive, and together with the backlash in the rest of the box, a recon unit would probably be a sensible next move?

Any thoughts or helpful suggestions would be gratefully received.

Post #777466 14th Jun 2019 2:26pm
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boxoftricks



Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Home Counties
Posts: 427

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver

Ashcroft replacement box. I have one awaiting fitting that has the additional machined sleeving case. I'm also changing the output shaft and clutch for a LOF one as I've no idea the state of the current one so makes sense to change at the same time along with the crankcase oil seal.

Post #777480 14th Jun 2019 3:58pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 641

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue

Having read your post, it would appear you have an issue with the gearbox, but before you shell out, One really simple thing to check, and one that nearly caught me out is the adjustment of the handbrake. If it is dragging it causes plenty of clunking and kangarooing.

There are 2 adjustment points: the first is on the back of the drum and is a piece of cake to adjust. With the hand brake off, you should be able to rotate the rear prop shaft a bit. Wind the handbrake adjuster clockwise until it bites. Once here, back it off 1.5 turns.

The second adjustment point adjusts the movement of the handbrake lever itself. Check The lever movement before you make the adjustment to the drum and then after. If all of a sudden the lever moves a few more clicks before biting then your handbrake is likely to have been too tightly adjusted. For MOT the brake need to bite within 4 clicks I think. To get this back within 4 clicks without using the adjuster on the back of the drum is an absolute dog! The cable adjuster is sort of on the back of the seat box (google it for an image) and you need to have skinny arms and an ability to work completely blind to be able to adjust it. It is a pig and is the reason most MOt testers will take the easy way out and just wind be drum adjuster in a bit more.

I adjusted mine properly and the clinking and kangarooing disappeared. Definitely work a check before you shell out on a new box Instagram @richmond_custom

Post #777502 14th Jun 2019 7:00pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 10121

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

It is also worth checking the condition of the rear axle "A"-frame balljoint before forking out for a new transfer box.

Post #777520 14th Jun 2019 7:54pm
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Gladys



Member Since: 28 Nov 2015
Location: South Wales
Posts: 28

Wales 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Indus Silver

Thanks for the suggestions. The handbrake and A-frame balljoint appear to be in order, so I think it will be an Ashcroft replacement.

Post #777840 17th Jun 2019 2:14pm
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nickhodgson



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Zambia
Posts: 159

Hi

With the diff lock engaged and you turning the flanges in opposite directions I would say 40 Degree movement is normal. The collar that locks the centre diff has wide spaced teeth that allow such movement. Speak to Ashcrofts about your issue and see what they recommend.

I would say your problem is elsewhere. Have you checked the triangular bushes at the front of the rear trailing arms. A good trick is to put the handbrake on and rock the rear wheels back and forward (with some gusto) and you will see any play or looseness in rear suspension bushes.

Cheers 1995 300tdi Defender 90 P/UP
2011 Puma Defender 130 D/C
1998 V8i Auto 90 Japan 50th
1997 Discovery V8i Auto
2000 300tdi Defender 110 P/UP

Post #778266 20th Jun 2019 3:55pm
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Pilgrimmick



Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 414

United Kingdom 

Will be very unusual if the LT230 is the problem, it is one of the best things Land Rover have ever built! 80" 1948
Lightweight V8
Bowler Tomcat
130 Station wagon
90 300tdi
(Santana PS10 pick up)
Range Rover L322 (Ful fat)

Post #778272 20th Jun 2019 4:44pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 10121

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

^^ Except for the input shaft splines, the intermediate gear bearings, the intermediate shaft seals and support, the diff, and the output seals! Rolling with laughter

Mind you, it's still probably one of the best things they've made and the best transfer box of its size that's easily available.

Post #778279 20th Jun 2019 5:23pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 641

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue

^^^ Some people are never happy! Wink Instagram @richmond_custom

Post #778285 20th Jun 2019 6:24pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 5586

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

blackwolf wrote:
^^ Except for the input shaft splines, the intermediate gear bearings, the intermediate shaft seals and support, the diff, and the output seals! Rolling with laughter

Mind you, it's still probably one of the best things they've made and the best transfer box of its size that's easily available.



but that still makes it the best thing they made Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter

Post #778294 20th Jun 2019 7:19pm
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Gladys



Member Since: 28 Nov 2015
Location: South Wales
Posts: 28

Wales 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Indus Silver

...so I replaced the rear halfshafts with Britpart one-piece shafts and most of the noise disappeared. There still seems to be a bit of a clunk from the rear diff, but it isn't too bad at the moment, so I can live with it.

In fact things have become quiet enough for me to notice another noise (what on a Defender, surely not...?) from somewhere to the nearside of the gear lever. I can best describe it as a metallic jangling, and as far as I can tell it is there all the time.

Whilst on the subject of noises, we have a couple of road humps on a fairly steep hill out of a local town. Driving over these uphill at about 20mph (it's a 30mph limit) seems to be the most comfortable speed and then I can hear a whirring noise as the front wheels reach the level road again, as though something is spinning. If I drive over the humps on the way downhill, or if I travel over humps on a level road, I don't hear the noise. If I had to place it, I would say this noise was in front of the driver's position.

Without wanting to open up a discussion about general Defender noises, has anybody noticed this sort of jangling or whirring before?

Post #792449 12th Sep 2019 12:16pm
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nosnibod



Member Since: 15 Aug 2007
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 316

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey

Jangling? Check the heat shields including the small one protecting the crank sensor. It’s really hard to get at the latter, but in my case it was the big one over the DPF broken in several places. I replaced it because it was too far gone to repair.

If it’s not those, check this forum for ‘clutch springs’ and pre-warn your wallet of an impending raid on its contents.

Whirring - check the wear pattern on the front tyres because that sounds exactly like the same sound I have at low speeds under a little load. I bet you find alternating tread blocks wearing alternately - like a castle wall. I had had the tracking checked and as soon as the guy saw the weird pattern he pointed to it and told me that would be the noise and the tracking would be perfect - and it was. Dave
Gracie - 2015 110 XS County Station Wagon

Post #792455 12th Sep 2019 12:31pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 10121

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

The whirring noise will be the traction control (assuming you have ABS/TC) being woken from its slumber by the bump in the road. It can quite often happen if you are under power and cross a bump like this that the effect of unloading one or other or both front wheels can allow just enough speed differential to cause the TC to kick in. The modulator is in the engine bay directly in front of your seat which is why the noise comes from there.

It is entirely normal and nothing to worry about.

Post #792465 12th Sep 2019 1:00pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 4245

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey

If the 'jangling' is a metallic, tinny sound, I had the same. Eventually found out that the handbrake drum was too tightly wound, so I was hearing the audible 'scuffing' every time I went into neutral. Got worse the faster I was driving, or with any kind of driving that would wind the drum on and tighten it a bit. If that is the sound, you'll know because you can normally stop it (or lessen it) by waggling the handbrake lever a bit whilst you hear the noise to shake the cable loose. If the noise reduces, voila simply adjust the drum/cabale a tad next time you can get under the Def. If not, it's something else. Whistle Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

Post #792473 12th Sep 2019 1:33pm
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Gladys



Member Since: 28 Nov 2015
Location: South Wales
Posts: 28

Wales 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Indus Silver

Thanks for the swift replies. The Traction Control as the cause of the whirring noise makes absolute sense.

I don't think the jangling is the handbrake as I can hear it when the vehicle is at a standstill. However, as I have noticed a bit of a tapping noise before I depress the clutch, as well as the jangling, I think I had better order up the new clutch parts....

Post #792480 12th Sep 2019 1:57pm
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