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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3610

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Spraying with Rattle Cans
After the relative success of spraying the rear cross member, and the fact I was quoted a 4 figure sum for repainting the wing and window “bit” after removal of the snorkel, I thought I might as well have a go myself, with the back stop of having to take it to get professionally done anyway if I screw it up.

So, I need a couple of things from you good people: tips, do’s and don’ts and advice for using rattle cans and also, how do I fill the left over bolt holes? Is body filler fine? What is the technique for using it?

Thanks in advance
Col
Post #784664 3rd Aug 2019 2:39pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Obviously, mask off. Hold the can about eight inches from the panel and start spraying about six inches from the front of the panel and end about six inches from the panel that way the spray pattern is equal. As you sweep the can over the area try and spray the next sweep slightly over the spray line of the first and so on.

Build up the paint layer gradually in thin coats do not try and spray one heavy coat. When totally dry use a product like Farecla G3 to level the paint. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #784670 3rd Aug 2019 3:21pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19533

United Kingdom 
Make sure you have a spray can like the Upol power can with a fan nozzle too, otherwise it'd be more difficult to avoid thick and thin spots and drips.
The wing is a bit big for aerosol though, typically a compressor is better suited to larger items. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
Red, White & Boost! 🇬🇧


Last edited by custom90 on 3rd Aug 2019 7:20pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #784674 3rd Aug 2019 3:52pm
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 719

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
If you can get behind the holes I would bond a bit of aluminium mesh or thin aluminium behind the hole with body filler. When dry, then finish the hole off with more body filler, then rub down to give a smooth surface.High fill primer should then give you a final surface for blending in.
Holes filled like this have lasted for years on previous cars.

Practice your spraying on some scrap sheet too. I would also recommend getting your paint from a paint supplier who use better quality cans - as custom90steve says.
Post #784679 3rd Aug 2019 4:36pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19533

United Kingdom 
Only thing I've ever found wiht hi build is you can get "pin holes" which a stopper like Dolphin glaze will sort out no problem but they are not always easy to spot.
The Upol guide coat is good too when using a block as they you can see any imperfections. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
Red, White & Boost! 🇬🇧
Post #784695 3rd Aug 2019 7:22pm
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Slideywindows



Member Since: 09 Sep 2016
Location: North Essex
Posts: 1283

England 
I do quite a bit of patching and aerosol can spraying.

Most recent was removing this ugly "searchlight" from the rear roof of my Ninety:



Click image to enlarge


It left 3 holes and a a deeply corroded patch of aluminium.


My method of repair is to put several layers of masking tape over the holes on the outside.

Clean and deeply score the ally on the inside around the holes.

Cut a piece of aluminium gauze to cover the hole on the inside, mix up JB Weld and fill the hole from the inside so that it presses up against the masking tape on the outside - this gives you a flat finish on the outside.

Gently push the gauze patch into the JB Weld and cover the whole patch on the inside with strips of masking tape, before the JB Weld can drip downwards.

Go away for 24 hours to let it all set, then strip off the masking tape.

Use filler-primer for minor imperfections on the outside and then spray with rattle-can as described by others - but if you are blending in new paint with old, it takes a little skill to swiftly move the can away as you move across from the repaired area towards the existing paint.

Finished area:



Click image to enlarge



All done with Halfords "Rover White" which is a dead ringer for the original Ivory White
Post #784734 3rd Aug 2019 10:32pm
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7873

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Looks great Charles!! Thumbs Up Bow down and not just the paint job! James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #784738 3rd Aug 2019 10:42pm
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zippo87



Member Since: 29 Mar 2019
Location: Moray
Posts: 100

Scotland 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Gently warming the can in a tub of hot water before you shoot will allow better atomisation of the paint particles, so you should get a finer mist. Unless of course it’s already warm. But you don’t want to be shooting paint on a hot day onto a hot surface etc. Just go for it - someone mentioned u-pol and it’s some of the best can paint I’ve used. Take your time, the more prep you put in the better the final piece.
Post #784937 5th Aug 2019 4:39am
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