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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3618

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Tips for Buzzwelding Crossmember
Mine needs doing again. I’m opting for the buzzweld rust encapsulator and then the gloss top coat using the rattle cans. I have pretty much no experience masking and spraying so what would you advice be? Should I opt for a brush application?

I’ll take it back to bare metal as much as poss and go from there. It’s a Puma if that matters?

Cheers
Col
Post #778782 24th Jun 2019 3:07pm
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10363

United Kingdom 
Buzzweld seems to be the buzz-word and is the answer to all 'paint' questions on any Land Rover media stream.

I used their 'galv in one' rattle can.... sure enough, after one month it was back to galv.... not sure if that's what they meant.
Not at all impressed.
I'm sure there'll be plenty of people to champion their products and have had good results.
Post #778783 24th Jun 2019 3:13pm
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Doc P



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Midlands
Posts: 565

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52858.html

I was going to do this this year (and the chassis).

What's do those who've used Buzzweld CIO think of it?
Post #778784 24th Jun 2019 3:13pm
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boxoftricks



Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Home Counties
Posts: 745

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
It's the classic situation of being all about the quality of the prep work. Paint anything over rust and it will come through in no time, even the specialist stop rust/paint directly onto rust.

Take the cross member as back as far as you can, ideally bare shiny metal and degrease it. I use the wipes you buy in a tub from the DIY shops. Then most ctitically on the bright shiny metal use a rust killer. For years I've used POR 15 Metal Prep.

https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Metal-Prep

I give everything a couple of treatments allowing over night drying time. I don't wash it off after application. If I brush paint a chassis I'll then use POR 15 rust prevention paint in the little tins. If it has access to sunlight like your rear member you have to give it a top coat.

When I do my rear cross member this summer (I'd never paint this time of year as far too much moisture in the air) I'll spray over the rust killer with red oxide primer spray paint. A couple of coats to build it up. Depending on finish may then use an undercoat on top of it. I'll then do a couple of coats of Halfords black matt spray paint. Then over the top a couple of coats of Halfords clear coat sprayed on as a more durable finish. The matt spraypaint plus clear coat gives a nice satin finish.
Post #778787 24th Jun 2019 3:44pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3618

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Any thoughts on how many rattle cans is enough?
Post #778922 25th Jun 2019 11:32am
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boxoftricks



Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Home Counties
Posts: 745

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
One 500ml can of each will be enough for 2 or 3 coats I think.
Post #778923 25th Jun 2019 11:42am
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Marks Landy



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 296

United Kingdom 1985 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Java Black
I did my rear cross member last summer with Buzzweld CIO, not impressed.
After 6 or 7 months it started looking a bit scabby..

Will try POR15 once it stops raining
Post #778927 25th Jun 2019 12:18pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 907

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
It's all about the prep, The dream sold buy B%*"$£&D is that of simple long term easy to do product. and IMHO it isn't the case. Always said it always will.

It is the case of rubbing down, Degrease, Priming, and a few light tops coats as adversed to one heavier one.

Well all have our favourite products but in the end the result should be A1.

The problem with the crossmember is the top where it joins the body there is the bracket across the top under the door and the seam there is gonna harbor the rust so after time it'll blow through so once painted it'll be good to get something in there to stop it spreading (i use ACF 50 to hope it seeps in and so far so good.)

On the whole good products and time spent on the prep will help. Cheap spray cans have not enough 'gas' inside as a propellant so I wouldn't bother. (I refurbed a set of radius arms for a friend to use on a cheap offroad truck and used Simoniz stuff and the nozzles were crap and the paint not a lot better.)
Yet the POR 15 aerosol there is lots of propellant and the nozzle is nice and gives a good even spray. Not to mention it is a really quality paint Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #778936 25th Jun 2019 1:08pm
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7875

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
I've used Buzzweld RCP under Raptor on a trailer and CIO as a secondary top coat on my bumper. Two years later both still look good as new. James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #779009 25th Jun 2019 9:38pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3618

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Last question! What’s the best tool for taking it back to bare metal? Random orbit sander, grinder and flap disk, or belt sander (bit too aggressive?).

Also, is it recommended to clear coat on top?

Thanks
Col
Post #779059 26th Jun 2019 9:30am
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macandy13



Member Since: 25 Dec 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 24

Scotland 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Would definitely use a grinder with a flap disc. Just be careful when you get to the edges of the bodywork. Use something more easily controlled or just sand paper for the hard to reach corners. Also remove your rear mud flap brackets to do the underside of the crossmember. Buzzword sells a kit for doing the rear crossmember which utilises Rust Encapsulate and 2K FXLiner. Mask off the bodywork as best you can with newspaper. Use plenty of masking tape and make sure to leave a small flap on the tape to tuck under the open sections of bodywork. I found it easier to remove the spare wheel off the door.

Mask up as best you can.

Go over it with the grinder and flap disc. Sandpaper for corners.

Wipe down with a degreaser and let it dry.

2 coats of RE and then 2 coats of FXLiner. Just make sure you aren't to close when spraying or you will get runs.

Would upload some pictures for you but they are on another gadget unfortunately.
Post #779581 29th Jun 2019 8:08pm
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macandy13



Member Since: 25 Dec 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 24

Scotland 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Post #779586 29th Jun 2019 8:13pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3618

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Cheers Andy. Did pretty much that today, except I found the flap disc a bit harsh so went for the random orbit sander. Not bad for a first attempt.
Post #779595 29th Jun 2019 8:44pm
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macandy13



Member Since: 25 Dec 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 24

Scotland 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Good to hear, done mine last year and still looks good. Hope you have the same luck.
Post #779600 29th Jun 2019 9:12pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3618

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue

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Post #779604 29th Jun 2019 9:53pm
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