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alexatnd



Member Since: 19 May 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 249

United Kingdom 
Fluhing oil or additive
When I change the oil in my td5 I normlly run old oil with some winns flushing oil additive for 10 mins before draining.

Long time ago seem to remember you used to get engine flushing oil to run throguh your engine.

Any mileage in doing this for a td5? Or just stick with the Wynns additive. Anyone got experience of other flushing additives ?

Reason being that doesn't take long for oil to start looking black again .... or is that the nature of a diesel ? Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb
Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost
Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County
Post #779480 29th Jun 2019 7:02am
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1867

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Funny enough i was going to ask the very same question!

I always used winns on my 300 TDI, watching this thread Very Happy 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #779484 29th Jun 2019 8:10am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5413

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I would never ever use a flushing oil. It just stirs all the crap up and the circulates it.

If you want clear oil, change it more frequently, but to keep it clear, I would think that would be about every thousand miles. It’s just what oil does.

I do drop my oil when it very hot though, so thin as possible.
Post #779485 29th Jun 2019 8:26am
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alexatnd



Member Since: 19 May 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 249

United Kingdom 
Isn;t that the point of a flushing oil, stirr up the crap and then flush it out hence less crap in the engine?

given the 22K a yesr I do in our TD5, perhapes changing oil evey 1K might not be a good idea ..... Smile Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb
Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost
Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County
Post #779520 29th Jun 2019 12:50pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
If you are going to use an engine flush (which to be fair you needn't if you regularly change the oil) then it makes sense to use the best flush on the market which in my opinion is Forte.

Forte is a name that is synonymous with the very best in effective engine treatments. their products are used on a regular basis by over 9,000 garages in the UK.

Forte has over 40 years worth of experience in the UK helping and advising garages on how to make a noticeable difference to a car’s performance.

Though it states Forte products are for trade only use and not for retail sale. They are available to buy from several retails outlets as well as Amazon and eBay.

https://www.forteuk.co.uk/products For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #779525 29th Jun 2019 2:03pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Re: Fluhing oil or additive
alexatnd wrote:


Reason being that doesn't take long for oil to start looking black again .... or is that the nature of a diesel ?


Engine darkens in colour due to the immense heat inside the engine block. However, if you notice when draining that your oil is really black then this could indicate the presence of soot in the oil and this would need to be investigated as it is usually an indication of incomplete combustion of the diesel fuel. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #779526 29th Jun 2019 2:16pm
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Sulisuli



Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 4789

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
The garage who did my stage remap this week stock and sell forte products and they spoke highly of them Thumbs Up 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90
Post #779549 29th Jun 2019 4:31pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2541

Scotland 
All you need to do is use the correct grade of oil, changed at the correct frequency as per the manual. Anything else is a waste of time and money, including engine ‘flush’ products.
Post #779550 29th Jun 2019 4:37pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2057

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
Just change the oil.

I change mine every 6k

Imo these "additives" just cost you more money for minimal, if any benifit. Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent
Post #779559 29th Jun 2019 5:44pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 895

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
I’m with everyone else on this... just change it regularly and NOT what LR recommends. Do it sooner. Mine is always black when I drive about 1000kms after an oil change 👍 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
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Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
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Post #779576 29th Jun 2019 7:29pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
I change at the normal interval, but change both filters at the same time. Use quality oil. and yes after about 15 minutes running you see already the first black coming in the oil. How good you drain, you never change all the oil so a bit off black oil will very soon be mixed with the clean oil and it will start to change color.
The only answer for this is a petrol engine. The oil of my Disco 3 V8 was so clean after 24000 km that after I put it back in the bottle were the new oil came out I hardly could see the difference. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #779612 29th Jun 2019 10:20pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1758

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
I'm in the camp of just change it regularly. Especially with the price of td5 oil, I think I only paid £25 for a 10l drum last time I bought some
Post #779620 29th Jun 2019 11:45pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3612

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
modern oils have a lot of detergent in them, they go black as they are designed to clean the engine , dirty oil = clean engine.

just change at the recommended frequency or sooner if your vehicle is used hard or infrequently.

the days of heavily sludged up engines are a thing of the past if good quality oils are used DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #779628 30th Jun 2019 6:41am
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alexatnd



Member Since: 19 May 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 249

United Kingdom 
Many thanks for all the replies, I do actiually try and change the oil every 6K with both filters. Sometime it sneaks up to 7K though. Also use Winns at each change.

Jut wondered about the flushing oil, last ued it in the 1970's

Thx
Again
A Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb
Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost
Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County
Post #779642 30th Jun 2019 9:23am
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