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DarrenJ

Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

low power - low turbo boost

Hi,

Really struggling diagnosing a fault with the car and had no joy searching the archives.

I recently put the original map back on the car (this was my mistake

) in readiness for the cars MOT. The car wouldn't rev and smoked horrifically as the EGR had jammed open. I blanked off the EGR and put the remap back on but i now have a lack of power.
There are no fault codes and the engine runs with no issues except the lack of power. When connecting the BAS tool i note that the turbo actuator rarely goes below 30%, when it does for a second or so full power is back. I have cleaned the MAP and MAF sensors, relearnt the pump etc but to no avail. There doesn't appear to be any damaged pipes and the turbo actuator mechanism is free

Before i start changing parts starting with the MAF sensor any ideas out there or am i missing something?

Thanks in advance
Darren Darren

22nd May 2019 2:43pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Check the condition of the wiring harness from the ECU to the turbo actuator. It is common for chafing problems to occur.

22nd May 2019 3:10pm

DarrenJ

Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

Cheers, l’ll check the loom tomorrow, is there a particular area to look at?

Cheers again Darren

22nd May 2019 9:35pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

Anywhere it touches or is secured to the engine, and if you have a/c check where it runs over the compressor.

22nd May 2019 9:50pm

skidrov

Member Since: 06 Oct 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 51

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Fuji White

I had a very similar scenario. For various reasons I went from my BAS map (EGR always closed) to standard (EGR cycled). I had not run the standard map for many months and so the EGR valve was well coked up, and jammed.

Similarly, power was down. I put in an EGR blanking plate and things improved slightly. However, I had DTCs indicating that the EGR valve was jammed open. My (wild unsubstantiated) guess was that the ECU knew that the EGR was jammed open and, even when I went back to the BAS map which doesn't cycle the EGR, limited something (no idea what - perhaps the turbo actuator, as you suggest) that limited power.

I removed/replaced the EGR valve (not a fun job...) and things returned to normal. BTW, you can get a very cheap EGR on AliExpress - if you are not cycling it 'coz you have a remap, I would suggest this is a good option if you have to go that route.

But - you said you had no fault codes - I would expect you should have some if the EGR valve is jammed open. I used FORScan, and definitely had "your EGR valve is jammed" codes (sorry, can't remember what they were). Can I ask what software is telling you that there's no fault codes?

23rd May 2019 10:42am

DarrenJ

Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

Thanks for the response.
I’m using the BAS tool to read the codes, no faults logged and the dash light is not lit. Ironically when I put he standard map back on no fault codes are logged and the engine management light stays on.
I cleaned the MAF again last night, didn’t do a great deal and I checked the wiring this morning but didn’t find anything obvious. I did unplug the actuator and clean up the connections this am and things have improved, turbo did get to 9% earlier and there is a lot more power, still down a little I’d say.

Cheers
Darren Darren

23rd May 2019 11:16am

skidrov

Member Since: 06 Oct 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 51

EML on and no fault codes doesn't sound right - might be worth trying another tool and/or checking with BAS.

23rd May 2019 11:36am

DarrenJ

Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

Oops, the EML stays off and no are fault codes logged on either standard or remap.
If you remove the EGr can you force it closed and then refit?
Cheers Darren

23rd May 2019 11:52am

skidrov

Member Since: 06 Oct 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 51

Probably, but you won't know for sure til you get it out. I replaced mine, but cleaned up the old one out of interest. It took about an hour (once out) and a bit of brake cleaner. Thing is, it's such a pig to get out/in that I chose to go for the new one. It was $AU 90 to my door.

23rd May 2019 12:04pm

DarrenJ

Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

All sorted!
Thank you for the advice.

I checked the turbo wiring and removed the connector, cleaned with electrical contact cleaner and also cleaned the MAF again, full power has returned and a brucie bonus of a bit more too

Darren

25th May 2019 6:59pm

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