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Sadi

Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Windhoek
Posts: 334

2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Heritage Edition SW Grasmere Green

Installing the new BAS HI-FLOW Intercooler ..

Right - BAS Intercooler finally in and works as expected.

Short review of installation process - for those who would like to tackle it themselves.

Very little info available on Internet - bit did find a link offering a few helpful tips - but not all...

Also a video on YT regarding removing a stud via the double nut locking method - this is really important as you will remove at least 3 studs.

I did it on a 2016 Heritage 110 - the aircon condenser and OS hoses hindered access and added to the difficulty. Vehicle is RHD - i.e. drive on left side of the road as in UK. Left is passenger side or kerbside or NS.

For such a late model vehicle I think 1'st choice would be to ask BAS to do the installation - either at their premises or at a LR gathering/show - especially if it is a daily driven vehicle...

What I received from BAS - Intercooler & 3 silicone hoses, separate silicone hose for air box to turbo (with outlet to connect to PCV hose). Of the kit with the 3 hoses - there remained a shortish elbow unused - apparently this joins the inlet manifold - but looking at the access there I decided to give it a (very) wide berth.

Bought 4 Uniclamps/T-clamps – size 58-66 - but only used 2. Used 4 of the 6 clamps as supplied by BAS - 2 for air box to turbo hose, and two for the intercooler ends of their respective hoses. T-clamps used on inlet manifold side and turbo itself.

So when the "magic box" arrives - there is a certain element of excitement that wants you to jump right in.

More pointers:
Park the vehicle out of way of other traffic - i.e. don't park in the way of another vehicle you or someone else may need to drive around with.
Good old sunshine is just the most efficient light source.
I parked with both the front wheels on ramps - idea being that dropped objects would be inclined to roll backwards and also to improve below vehicle access to retrieve such objects. It worked most of the time ... but I also then had to use a small stepladder should I really want decent access to the engine.
I did all myself - but a helper would definitely not go amiss. Such a helper also very handy to photograph processes and to mark Jiffy bags for bolts, nuts, studs, screws, washers, etc. removed.
Cell phone photos and/or marking with white Cutex before removing parts may help orientation and reassembly later.
Have ski rope max. 2.5x length of the vehicle - you will use this to elevate the bonnet

1. Remove grill (4 top screws and 2 side screws)
2. Remove upper cowling (6 screws - but they actually remain in situ)
3. Remove aircon condenser frame - 2 bolts in lowest end - 13 spanner and 10 spanner or socket needed - and move it forwards as far as possible.
4. Elevate bonnet - knot around the springed pin, elevate bonnet and tie somewhere at the back of the vehicle - make sure about the knot ... I inserted a foam camping mattress between windscreen and bonnet.
5. Old blankets over engine to help place tools.
6. Remove "slam plate" - standing in front of the engine and facing it - remove the 2 studs on right side entering the side fender - there is one top and one lower one - lower one easier to remove - double locknut method and 2x #13 open ended spanners necessary. Also a small single bolt rearwards - #8 spanner. On the left similarly - but: remove the top 8mm bolt that holds the upper aircon hose bracket; slacken the 8mm bolt below it; remove the lower 13mm stud - that goes into side fender - completely (has a "fixed" hole) and slacken the top 13mm stud - it allows sliding of the vertical bracket. Remove slam plate - I left the connected bonnet opening cable in situ - it was easy to move the object around and out of the way. Old intercooler will have upwards facing attachments inside rubber grommets inside these side brackets. Right side bracket will be completely removed. Slide left side bracket upwards to release intercooler. If not possible - remove left side bracket completely - remaining 13mm stud and 8mm bolt - last one will release the steel strut that normally keeps bonnet upright. Once these front upward facing attachments are free - intercooler will still rest on water radiator via 2 downward facing rear prongs/feet - one left and one right. Will probably not be able to lift yet.
7. Loosen both ends of hose: intercooler to inlet manifold - remove hose and block manifold inlet side with rolled up plastic shopping bag.
8. Remove MAF sensor and store in Jiffy bag in safe place.
9. Disconnect PCV hose - in my case a small part of the circlip was melted/fused to the hose - pry open with flathead screwdriver.
10. Loosen clamps & remove air box to turbo hose. Close turbo opening with rolled up plastic shopping bag.
11. Remove air box lid and filter.
12. Remove air box itself - according to Pete at BAS - choice to be made by installer whether to do or not - remove OS headlamp and you will see the 2 vertical prongs connected to a sturdy steel footplate via rubber bungs/-grommets. Lots of play underneath which precludes leverage with the normal tools - but a pry bar between the box and footplate and elevation relieves the box upwards with minimal effort. It now needs to be moved away from the side fender towards the engine - to disengage the 2 horizontal brackets. Also disengage the duckbilled air intake pipe. Difficult job now is to completely remove the air box - as the aircon hose and lower fan cowling inhibit access - but it is possible.
13. Use your method of softening the rubber grommets/bungs - I sprayed them with DOT4 brake fluid and let them soak some rays till eventually returning air box to its site.
14. The duckbilled air intake pipe will now be the only remaining obstacle. It allows a certain amount of movement though. Notice the bracket/clamp "down there" attached to the alternator - this has to be loosened and pried open from the turbo to intercooler hose. (After installation of the new silicone hose I couldn't close this bracket/clamp due to bigger OD of new hose)
15. Loosen both ends of the above hose - clamps may not release completely - it may have a "teethy" attachment biting into the hose - nevertheless release as far as possible.
16. Remove turbo side hose - I had to cut it slightly with a sharp Stanley knife - as it was also slightly fused/melted to the underlying metal. Remove intercooler side of the hose. This may be a slightly difficult operation. The turbo outlet looks downwards - unlikely to collect foreign material - but can still be closed with rolled up plastic shopping bag.
17. Remove old intercooler.
18. Cut mentioned lugs on water radiator (BAS website) - hardish "plastic" - so new/sharp hacksaw blade alone works fine - don't cut too near to water radiator. Smooth with rasp - if preferred.
19. Insert new BAS intercooler. It will have 2 rearward down facing feet that seats into the respective openings to the front of the water radiator. Serial number of new IC readable in top right hand corner.
20. Align first new turbo to intercooler hose - old hose came with some loose protective sheeting to protect against chafing from the steering linkage. After visualizing - attach protective sheeting in correct position to new hose and keep in place with cable ties.
21. Connect new silicone hose to turbo - soaking in hot water for 5 minutes and light coating of petroleum jelly to inside of hose may be helpful. I used a T-clamp here - but keep it on tip of the hose - as it may not go over the rolled edge if kept on another part of the hose.
22. Connect other end to intercooler. I used one of the BAS clamps for this end. (Try to keep on tip of hose or intercooler inlet pipe itself) (light coating with petroleum jelly on inner diameter of clamp helps positioning of the clamp) (decide beforehand how what position would be easiest to tighten the clamp)
23. Connect other hose to inlet manifold side - I used T-clamp here.
24. Connect opposite end to IC outlet. Used BAS supplied clamp here. I thought this would be the easy part - but not to be.
25. If counter pressure applied from intercooler side - use IC itself: do not press against aircon frame - it has some bolt heads on the IC side which may damage IC when pressing against it.
26. All hoses connected and IC seated/mated to water radiator.
27. Check all clamps tightened properly.
28. Replace air box - I had to shorten the horizontal foot - nearest to the headlamp - slightly. Reconnect duckbilled air intake hose - I did not do this as already decided to remove it permanently.
29. Replace air filter and air box lid - last mentioned an unnecessarily difficult process: found that working from the OS front wheel ensured success instead of trying from the grill side. (You want to do this now while you have maximum play and movement of the aircon hose)
30. Replace left vertical bracket - 2x studs (13mm) and 2x 8mm bolts - : first insert and slightly tighten lower 8 mm bolt; then the top one. Then the 2x 13mm studs - but nothing too tight. This bracket is able to slide slightly up and down in order to seat the upward facing foot of the intercooler - with or without the rubber grommets saved from the old IC.
31. Replace same bracket on the right side and align and seat the remaining upwards facing foot of the IC.
32. Now return slam plate – return 1x 8mm bolt & 2x 13mm studs: it will still have the double locknuts on - use the outside nut nearest to IC to turn till maximum resistance felt. Remove all nuts, insert old washers and reapply single nut and tighten slightly.
33. Carefully lower bonnet till 1'st catch only - tighten all 4 studs slowly and randomly - alternating and small bits at a time.
34. If finished - check that bonnet opens and closes freely.
35. Return AC frame via its low bolts and nuts. Remember the single new spacer - supplied by BAS - in the top middle between slam plate and frame of AC condenser.
36. Return upper fan cowling.
37. Return grill.
38. Return MAF sensor.
39. Replace/return air box to turbo hose.
40. Connect PCV hose to the above.
41. Check no loose tools/objects in engine bay and start engine to test no warning lights appearing.

Complications:

1. I lost one of the clips that secures the air box lid - but there is a neat little hole next to it that will accommodate a self-tapping screw.
2. I removed the duckbilled dirty air intake hose - permanently. It is a tough piece of material - and you need to cut it to pieces and remove piecemeal. A Dremel Trio Router with a drill like cutting bit worked best for this. There remains a part trapped behind the brake booster - I will need the help of a LR buddy to completely remove this. But now air entry to air box is as unrestricted as it could possibly be. (Static "propeller" type water separator still in situ)
3. I removed the side fender plastic air intake grill to see how it connects to the above air intake - noticed that 4 of the 5 plastic studs were (already?) broken - even though I removed it the correct way with a hooked tool. Fixed it temporarily. (But now the vehicle has a hidden "gill" to help remove hot engine bay air?) Also freed up some space for possible ProVent 200 catch can installation - but will wait and see if space is sufficient. (Last item now in stock again from Asgard Engineering in Australia and on back order)
4. When going for a test drive - I noticed on the right hand top fender 3 ever so slight indentations. Heard that it may arise from "leaning elbows" ...
5. T-Clamps (also called Uniclamps) work very well where more access is available. Where access is cramped - the conventional clamps supplied by BAS work better.

Benefits:
1. Advertent - intake temp. post intercooler dropped 10 to 25 degrees Celsius - mean drop 15 deg C. Previously it would read anything from 60 to 75 degrees C - on the test drive it maxed at 50 deg C for most of the time - briefly touched 51 deg C
2. Inadvertent - intake temperature preturbo and post air box via MAF - used to read 15 deg C above real ambient temperature - i.e. at true 20 deg C ambient it would read intake temp as 35 to 36 deg C. Now dropped to reading intake air temp - before turbo - as only 4 to 6 degree above real ambient. This cannot be ascribed to new IC - but maybe removal of the air intake pipe?
3. Seat of the pants feel - difficult to evaluate. Definitely no increased or new induction roar because of removal of the air intake hose. Will monitor and report back if there is a change in fuel consumption.

11th Aug 2017 12:22am

Pickles

Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3793

2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green

Sadi, What a BRILLIANT post mate. One of the best "how to's" I've read.
Thanks, Pickles.

11th Aug 2017 2:29am

Sadi

Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Windhoek
Posts: 334

Thanks Pickles !!

Always enjoy your forum contributions and feel quite honored that you liked the write up !!

11th Aug 2017 6:54am

tookaphotoof

Member Since: 18 Mar 2013
Location: dordrecht
Posts: 1279

2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black

👍🏻

11th Aug 2017 6:56am

miker

Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1776

Very detailed write up! The o my suggestion I have is i tend to just remove the bonnet these days, only takes a second!

11th Aug 2017 2:18pm

Sadi

Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Windhoek
Posts: 334

Thanks Miker.

We will probably use that when trying to remove the last remnant of the old air intake pipe that is still behind the brake booster.

11th Aug 2017 3:27pm

familymad

Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3483

2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black

What are you planning for replacement of the old intake assembly? Great write up and about to start this myself 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI

4th Nov 2017 9:24am

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White

Having just fitted my BAS intercooler and silicone hoses to a non-AC equipped 2014 2.2 110, may I add the following to Sadi's excellent guide, for non-AC vehicles:

It is possible to fit the silicone elbow he omitted to the left hand side, although it is quite awkward (other adjectives are available...!) I used my own method, but it's essentially as described here:

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54849...ooler+hose

I didn't remove or loosen the water pump to do it and I fitted the new hose to the inlet manifold first, partially tightened, and then the steel pipe into the other end. I used squirty hand wash soap as a lubricant (washing up liquid has salt in it....) I fitted new stainless (genuine) Jubilee clips, tightened with one of these:

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000...&psc=1

I also moved the big rubber spacers on the water hoses along a bit (you'll see what I mean when you do it) to allow more room. It took me about an hour with just a lot of swearing and lacerated arms, but it's the hardest bit of the job and once done, the rest is comparatively easy.

The other bit to mention is the two bonnet slam panel support bars. In spite of using Pete's plastic spacers (see his website), my bars both needed a bit grinding off near the top to stop them pressing onto the new intercooler, a slight bend part way down to bring the bottom ends closer to the bolt holes on the chassis, and finally a tiny bit cutting off the painted aluminium front panel with tin snips to allow it to fit back on without catching on the bars. The pleasure of hand built vehicles, eh!

I hope this is of interest.

12th May 2019 8:10am

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

As a further update, I have the 170BHP remap from Pete and the 'bum dyno' detects no difference in performance from fitting the silicone hoses and intercooler, but I wasn't really expecting any.

It does open the way to his new turbo of course.... Alas poor wallet.

12th May 2019 10:39am

Zed

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3355

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

No, as you have found out the intercooler won't give any extra performance but essential when you add the turbo.

Which one are you going for Joe?

Nice write up Sadi.

17th May 2019 10:12pm

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

Thanks Zed. Assuming I can afford it (I need to change a few more ball valves first!), I'm going to go for Pete's hybrid turbo. I wasn't aware of any others on offer to be honest.

18th May 2019 6:31am

Zed

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3355

Pete uses Turbo Technics turbos. It makes perfect sense to go with his as you have everything else from BAS.
There are a few to choose from though. Most competition bods seem to go for CRTurbo with remaps by Jose of TD5inside. They have the added bonus of being custom painted for that under bonnet bling! Have a scroll through his Instagram for some turbo p0rn. https://www.instagram.com/td5inside_performanceinside/

18th May 2019 6:51am

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

Thanks again Zed.

18th May 2019 7:18am

Naks

Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2669

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White

Thanks Sadi, much appreciated.

A few years ago I decided to tackle the installation of my Alisport intercooler with a friend... many hours later, we thought we had it, and then I went past my indie who took one look and just shook his head, and had to redo the whole thing.

needless to say, I never attempted a similar job again.

--
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged

Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

18th May 2019 10:31am

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