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Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3708

Spoke too soon! It’s back! There was no knocking at all when I test drive yesterday, but after about 40 miles the knock is back. I’m thinking of two things, firstly perhaps the taper wasn’t seated perfectly when I torqued it up and has settled now allowing movement back in, so I will take out the split pin and check the torque tomorrow.

Secondly, it may only be happening when things are warmed up so could be that as the diff oil warms and “thins” the knocking is becoming more apparent. That assumes the diff is at fault.

The other thing to note is that I park on a slightly sloping drive. Previously when I put that hand brake on and released the door break, the car would roll back a bit. After the new a frame joint was done yesterday, this roll back decreased significantly. However, tonight it is back to where it was. Thanks

29th Apr 2019 6:58pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20833

I had that with a failed rear UJ. I specifically noticed the difference. I could not tell it was like it in situ and wasn’t even that noticeable once removed to check.
At the time I had worn rear halfshafts and flanges too.

I did also have thevrear diff pinion oil seal charge this the bolt re-torqued too.
However, I’m pretty sure the above solved it.
Rear dampers and various other bushes can be culprit too. Pity you can’t stick a camera under or have some assistance to see if you can see anything. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___
____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_

29th Apr 2019 9:40pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3708

Thanks Steve. Drive members and shafts have been changed recently, as have dampers and bushes. The UJs show no movement at all vertically or horizontally, but I will double check tonight. I’ll take out the A frame ball joint from the axle tonight and check the bushes at the chassis end. I checked the diff pinion bolt torque last night and this was OK.

30th Apr 2019 6:14am

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20833

The movenent you mention suggest it's certainly handbrake drum onwards.
If you really can't find anything then it may indeed be the diff but there are quite a few driveline components en-route.
On the bright side at least the rear is a bit less of a pain than on the front.

Did you notice any change between touching any of the components? I thought you mentioned the A frame but it can't back?
Take a look at the axle to chassis bushes too, there may be movement in the axle not easily detectable unless a load is present.

I sympathise I really do, I had months of a headache with it all last year myself only it was a failed UJ and worn halfshaft slibes abd DM's combine in my case.

Out of interest I presume you've checked the diff oil and fished around in the diff pan just in case and metal debris was in there? _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___
____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_

30th Apr 2019 12:50pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3708

Thanks again Steve. Diff oil flushed and changed a month or so back, didn’t find anything in it and made no difference to the noise. I will check wear at the a frame to chassis bushes tonight, but for the sake of about a tenner I think I’ll order a pair and swap out at the weekend. The UJ has no horizontal or verticals play, and no twisting as far as I can tell.

I have read something about handbrake drums catching, so I’ll have a look at this as well. I haven’t looked at trailing arms, could these be culprit? Worth checking I suppose!

30th Apr 2019 1:31pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5922

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

In my tdci it was the drive flange of the rear diff. Would clonk going from forward to reverse, and on the roll/bounce when handbrake applied.

30th Apr 2019 1:34pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3708

Removed and refitted the ball joint tonight and torqued everything back up. While I was there I check the handbrake for adjustment. The manual states to tighten until the drum bites and then back off 1 and 1/2 turns. When I checked mine I went from slack to tight in about 1/4 of a turn! I set it up as per the manual and now it takes 5 clicks to bite, but there was no knock on overrun after a short drive. Will try after 50 miles or so tomorrow and feedback.

30th Apr 2019 7:43pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3708

Success! I think it was actually that hand brake that was the issue however I don’t mind having replaced the ball joint as it was going to fail sometime! Drove home tonight clunk free!

Thanks to all for the input, I would have been lost without it. 🍺

1st May 2019 6:26pm

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