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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20833 ![]() ![]() |
I had that with a failed rear UJ. I specifically noticed the difference. I could not tell it was like it in situ and wasn’t even that noticeable once removed to check.
At the time I had worn rear halfshafts and flanges too. I did also have thevrear diff pinion oil seal charge this the bolt re-torqued too. However, I’m pretty sure the above solved it. Rear dampers and various other bushes can be culprit too. Pity you can’t stick a camera under or have some assistance to see if you can see anything. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3708 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Steve. Drive members and shafts have been changed recently, as have dampers and bushes. The UJs show no movement at all vertically or horizontally, but I will double check tonight. I’ll take out the A frame ball joint from the axle tonight and check the bushes at the chassis end. I checked the diff pinion bolt torque last night and this was OK.
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20833 ![]() ![]() |
The movenent you mention suggest it's certainly handbrake drum onwards.
If you really can't find anything then it may indeed be the diff but there are quite a few driveline components en-route. On the bright side at least the rear is a bit less of a pain than on the front. Did you notice any change between touching any of the components? I thought you mentioned the A frame but it can't back? Take a look at the axle to chassis bushes too, there may be movement in the axle not easily detectable unless a load is present. I sympathise I really do, I had months of a headache with it all last year myself only it was a failed UJ and worn halfshaft slibes abd DM's combine in my case. Out of interest I presume you've checked the diff oil and fished around in the diff pan just in case and metal debris was in there? _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3708 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks again Steve. Diff oil flushed and changed a month or so back, didn’t find anything in it and made no difference to the noise. I will check wear at the a frame to chassis bushes tonight, but for the sake of about a tenner I think I’ll order a pair and swap out at the weekend. The UJ has no horizontal or verticals play, and no twisting as far as I can tell.
I have read something about handbrake drums catching, so I’ll have a look at this as well. I haven’t looked at trailing arms, could these be culprit? Worth checking I suppose! |
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landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5922 ![]() ![]() |
In my tdci it was the drive flange of the rear diff. Would clonk going from forward to reverse, and on the roll/bounce when handbrake applied.
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3708 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Removed and refitted the ball joint tonight and torqued everything back up. While I was there I check the handbrake for adjustment. The manual states to tighten until the drum bites and then back off 1 and 1/2 turns. When I checked mine I went from slack to tight in about 1/4 of a turn! I set it up as per the manual and now it takes 5 clicks to bite, but there was no knock on overrun after a short drive. Will try after 50 miles or so tomorrow and feedback.
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3708 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Success! I think it was actually that hand brake that was the issue however I don’t mind having replaced the ball joint as it was going to fail sometime! Drove home tonight clunk free!
Thanks to all for the input, I would have been lost without it. 🍺 |
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