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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765   
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Hello all,
I know from having stripped back my 110 for sound proofing that the driver’s door has been replaced. It has slightly more pronounced panel gaps than I would wish for, even after adjusting the hinges, so I was wondering if there are different type doors depending on year of manufacture (e.g. between Td5 and Puma) and if there is anyway I can tell? If not, what can I do? Bend or reshape it? Thanks Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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18th Apr 2019 7:49am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Hi,
An obvious one is whether it's an earlier door (Tdi \ Td5) or a Puma door. The earlier ones have 90' corners on the inside frame with obvious welds; the later ones more rounded as they've been pressed I think. I think this also marks the change from steel frame with an aluminium skin, to steel frame and 'zintec' steel skin. But I don't think there would have been much difference to the overall dimensions - though I'm happy to be corrected. Door fit... there's obviously a lot of scope for adjustment, not just on the door itself via hinges and bending, but also whether they are genuine or non-genuine seals, and then whether the bulkhead or B pillars have been adjusted? I have had issues with 2nd row doors vs the rear sides (some pics on my tinkering thread) and I did try judicious bending. It worked to a degree. This was after I'd made sure that the side panels were adjusted as far as I could. I've now fitted new doors and in the next few days I'll be dealing with exactly the same question - getting the gaps as close as I can. I've got a couple of genuine seals on order for the 2nd row, as it does seem as if the upper corners on the current ones are pretty stiff and don't compress much. I might even resort to bending the frames slightly - but I'll be a lot more nervous about this with my shiny new doors and paint! Don't know if any of this ramble has helped you at all!? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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18th Apr 2019 8:16am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240  
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Assuming you're talking about the later all steel door, then no, they're all the same. Having fitted later doors to a 200tdi 90, I can also say that they are all interchangeable. If you've got unacceptable panel gaps, then it's just a matter of adjustment, although I appreciate that it can be difficult. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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18th Apr 2019 10:24am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765
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Thank you both. I’ll revisit adjusting them. I am planning on new seals as well. It’s more that the door flares out at the bottom. Will try and take a photo. Is A/B Pillar adjustment possible or easy? Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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19th Apr 2019 3:51pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
My main problem is my 2nd row doors sticking out at the top. Seeing a pic of what you mean would help. I'm assuming you mean flaring out on the side opposite the hinge?
Adjusting the A pillar - I'd think this very involved and complicated. It's basically the bulkhead and the windscren surround, which is also held in place by the roof. On the other hand, the hinges themselves can be adjusted on the bulkhead. That's where you'll get most adjustment on the door. You can also add more plastic shims between hinge and door - or remove them if there's more than one fitted? Then it's adjusting the catch. The B pillar could be adjusted a little - not back and forward, but potentially in and out. Again though, it's fixed to the bulkhead, seatbox, and C pillar - so not straightforward. I did try and adjust mine outwards at the top - but any movement I achieved was marginal. Pics are the answer! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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19th Apr 2019 6:30pm |
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